On the 18th of October some of the climbers started arriving in Edinburgh. From Quebec, Canada came David Thomassin (18yrs) and Veronique Vigneault (16yrs) and Michael Rofe (19yrs) from Australia. Acting as 'Hosts' to the visitors were Scots climbers Lawrence Hughes (18yrs) from Perth, Fiona Gingell (16yrs) from Glenshee and Hannah Burrows-Smith (21yrs) from Grantown. Jamie Ogilvy (18yrs) from Bucks, England also joined the meet as a host. Jamie started climbing in Scotland before his family moved south and climbs about E4 (his father is an accomplished climber too). Hannah is probably one of Scotland's unsung heroines of climbing, leading E3 and grade VI winter, and also has a father whose achievements (on Scottish rock and ice) are considerable. Fiona is a relative beginner but who still leads about VS, whilst Lawrence is known as the Perth Roof Warrior and is responsible for many new routes in Scotland up to E4 (often done on-sight).
Sunday 19th and we head north towards Dunkeld.
The mist and cloud cleared, the autumn colours
shone in the sun and the cameras were soon on power-drive. Upper Cave Crag was a rude introduction to 'gear' climbing for our visitors (most of whom had only ever climbed on bolt routes), but with local guru Lawrence bouncing with enthusiasm they soon got the idea. Corpse (E1), Gnome (E1) and Squirm (E1) were all completed with David having a good attempt at leading at E1 and Veronique quite happily seconding Squirm. David followed Lawrence on High Performance (E4) with some aerial antics before settling down to more amenable fair with Rat Catcher (E3). Michael led Coffin Corner (VS) in better style than I followed it !

By Monday morning the remainder of the contingent had arrived : Jay ("hi, I'm from New Zealand") Piggott (16yrs); Jinella Chua (21yrs) from Singapore; Malaysians Eric Low (17yrs) and Mohd Nur All Fes(16yrs), were accompanied by the Malaysian Federation's President Nor Ramlie Sulaiman. Even the Indian climbers Razi Zaheer (16yrs) and Davaka (17yrs) had made it through the
beaurocracy, and despite their obvious jet lag, were keen to go cragging. A short day and a biting wind only allowed a visit to North Berwick Law Quarry, where they played on the bolts. Ironically, the biggest fall of the week was witnessed here with simultaneous 'flight' by leader Michael and belayer Veronique from a 6b bolted slab.
After a reception in the evening they all motored north to Glenmore Lodge for the remainder of the week. With the cold temperatures it was vital to get the Malaysians and the Indians into the sun before they needed medical treatment so any attempt to climb the bigger cliffs had to be dropped in favour of south-facing crags. Creag Dubh was an obvious choice for the warmth but not particularly for experiencing the art of placing protection. However, with guidance from Graham Ettle, Andy Cunningham and Chris Forrest who were instructing for the meet, the more experienced did manage to climb the classics of King Bee (VS) and Inbred (HVS) whilst Jay led the odd VS with the very rude names.
An early morning start the next day to Glen Nevis (again in search of 'sun rock') gave the visitors stunning views of the Glen at its most beautiful - frosted hard in the valley base, screes glistening in the early morning sun and the diverse colours of the Caledonian woods. After a visit to Steall falls while the rock warmed up they all sampled Polldubh's immaculate mica Schist. Even the Indians were surprised how warm it turned out. Storm (HVS) and Heatwave (HS) all saw ascents.
The evenings at Glenmore Lodge were luxurious and convivial. Coaching sessions on physiotherapy and training for climbing were mixed with a 'World Rock' slide show, setting boulder problems at the in-house wall and enjoying the swimming pool and climbing videos.
Tearing them all away from 'The Lodge' each morning
was difficult but with the sun beckoning further south (it was raining at Glenmore) a choice was offered of gear climbing at Dunkeld's Polney Crag or sport climbing at the recently developed Weem Crags near Aberfeldy. It was heartening that most of them were now addicted to placing gear and opted for Polney. With more confidence (helped by the blazing sunshine) they all succeeded in leading routes. Veronique and Jinella both did Bollard Buttress Direct (HS) and seconded The End (VS), The Malaysian Eric, in particular was getting the hang of it all and led both The Groove (VS) and Kestrel Crack (VS) in fine style. His compatriot, 16 year old All Fes, was less certain but lived up to his nickname of 'Monkey' whilst seconding The Rut (VS). Razi and Davakar had a whale of a time on various routes, their dulcet tones ringing out across Polney all day, indeed as the temperature soared it was almost possible to think we were in India. At Weem the 'hard team' ticked many of the 6b and 6c sport routes, whilst David led the strenuous corner crack of The Last Temptation (E2 5c) with some of the protection in place as an incentive.
Friday saw a visit to Alien Rock Indoor Climbing Wall in Edinburgh, where we could sample a bouldering competition set up by Rueben, Steve and Malcolm. An enthusiastic 2 hours session to complete 25 problems up to 6a
standard (and another harder 10 if keen enough) wiped everyone out for the rest of the day. Prizes were donated by Mountain Man Supplies of Perth and Tiso with Jamie winning overall but Eric taking away first prize for the visitors. Jinella took second prize (1st female) and Veronique third prize. Mountain Man Supplies also put together excellent 'Goody Bags' donated to everyone as momentos of their trip to Scotland.
On Saturday the visitors had the opportunity to meet the Heads of Government at the Commonwealth Conference. Jay met his Prime Minister, Mic lost his down at the billabong and the rest of us ran in the Torch Run For Peace.
The Meet was wound up with a trip to the sandstone of Northumberland on Sunday. Excellent bouldering and many of them really getting the hang of leading with gear. David in particular put in a superb effort leading The Arches (HVS 5b) at Back Bowden Doors which is not an easy route to protect. Eric stormed up other routes here and 'Monkey' swarmed all over the roofs and walls with impudent ease. Jamie and Lawrence spent hours bouldering roof problems and Jinella experienced the more psychological side of climbing.
The meet's success can be judged by the friendships that were forged and the genuine invitations to visit their home countries. Their enthusiasm for the intricacies of 'gear' climbing was obvious and they all left wanting more, unhappily many of them will not be able to climb this way at home as sport climbing is the norm, but perhaps their new found interest will ultimately affect the developments in thier countries in the future.
David gave an interview for Radio Canada and Veronique became a Canadian TV star. The Scottish weather, Glenmore Lodge and Mountain Man Supplies all contributed to a fantastic weeks climbing and fun, but the last word must go to Razi with his cry of "OK, I jump!" when in distress. It soon became the battle cry of the meet.

Commonwealth Festival 1997
L to R, back row: Kevin Howett (MCofS), B Davaka (India), Mohd Nur All Fes (Malaysia), Eric Lowe (Malaysia), Rahi Zaheer (India), Jinella Chua (Singapore), Mic Rofe (Australia), Nor Rumlie Sulqiunan (President, Malay Federation)
front row: Jamie Ogilvie (England) Graham Ettle (Mountain Guide), Fiona Gingell (Scotland), Chris Forrest (Lodge Instructor),
(Canada), Hannah Burrows-Smith (Scotland), Veronique Vigneault (Canada), Jay Piggot (New Zealand).
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