Helmets (and using your head)

By Roger Wild

Shortly after taking up the post of Mountain Safety Adviser I received a severe slagging from some of my mates (no change there). The criticism was not that I had become a member of the establishment but the fact that in the photograph that accompanied my introduction (last issue) I was not wearing a helmet. Shouldn't a mountain safety adviser wear a helmet at all times, even in bed? I don't think it's that simple. Don't get me wrong – I wear a helmet most of the time when climbing and I've been slagged for wearing a helmet when all around me were not. This doesn't bother me – I'd made a judgement at the time based on a wide range of factors. There are two main hazards that we protect our heads from by wearing helmets – banging our heads by falling off the climb and things falling off the mountain onto our heads. On the climb in the photograph I had judged that neither of these hazards necessitated wearing a helmet. The responsible approach to wearing helmets is to make an assessment of the terrain you are going onto and if in any doubt to WEAR A HELMET. Of course, wearing a helmet isn't the only way of trying to avoid injury to your head. Other factors include route finding that avoids loose rock, not hanging around in the firing line, being aware of other parties above you and not following other parties on routes where rock and ice are likely to be kicked off above you.

This started me thinking about how we perceive the actions of other folk on the hill, the dangers of jumping to conclusions and most importantly the potential flaw in copying what we see others doing. At the beginning of June, I had a great day out wandering along a section of the Cuillin ridge. The weather was good and I knew that the forecast was accurate because I had been on the hill during the previous three days and had been watching what was going on weather-wise. Consequently, I felt perfectly justified in taking nothing except a good pair of boots and a fleece tied around my waist. I had no waterproofs, hat or gloves, no map, no compass, no survival bag. What I did have was knowledge of the ridge gained from dozens of trips including several complete traverses, a reliable weather forecast and a very healthy respect for the seriousness of the terrain (this knowledge of the ridge is not in any way unique or special, I just happen to have chosen to spend a lot of time in the Cuillin – like many others). Although I rarely travel in the hills so lightly equipped, I have absolutely no doubt that on this particular day, I was behaving responsibly. During the day I met two other groups - a young family dressed much the same as myself and two mountaineers equipped with harness, helmet, a rope and rucksacks presumably containing warm clothing, waterproofs, hat, gloves, map, compass, survival bag, food and drink. So which of the three groups was properly equipped? Answer – probably all three were.

The factors to take into account are, proposed itinerary, knowledge possessed and equipped carried. I've already stated my own situation, but what about the young family with two 10 – 12 year olds? I met them on the path about an hour's walk from the road having a picnic. They had boots and warm fleeces but not much else. Provided they had checked the forecast and didn't intend to go any further than the coire floor, I think they were behaving quite reasonably. The mountaineers were on the second day of a traverse of the ridge and there had been some rain during the previous day. It was their second visit to the Cuillin. Their gear was spot on for their itinerary. The common factors between these three parties? Forethought, planning and preparation.

So thanks, mates, for bringing this issue to the fore. I'll buy you a pint next time I see you (maybe).

In many climbing situations an objective examination of the terrain will conclude that wearing a helmet is advisable.

If you have any views about helmets we would be pleased to hear from you, using the form below.

 YOUR COMMENTS 

Peter Doonan writes
The helmet debate is not clear cut. I would say if you are scrambling/bouldering and if there is a risk of falling rock or ones self (it doesnt take much of a knock on the head to start thinking of an evacuation from the location either under ones own steam/aided). Its all good practice, especially when accompanied by beginers to the outdoors, instills good practices. The other point of what to carry. It would be responsible to carry additional gear should a fellow mountaineer/walker run into probs, may require spare clothing or a little sustenance.

Nick writes
Personal choice. In france at Sisteron I was 'dogging' a 6b/c overhanging crack inside the fissure out of the rain. If it was the usual hot summer temp I probably would not be wearing my helmet. Although when I later climbed on the ,still bolted, slabby outer face in the hot sun I wore my helmet. Coz it was a slab and the fall looked orrible.

Two sides to the decision about wearing a helmet on bolted routes.

Chris Barnes writes
Surely, the main issue is one of competence to make a valid assessment of the risks of head injury. The acquiring of this competence cantake some time - years in many cases, and until such time as this competence is gained, a helmet should be worn whilst climbing. Most of us are fortunate to have been introduced to the sport by more experienced climbers who provide the lead in the perception of safety issues. While this has positive benefits in shortening the time taken to acquire competence in risk assessment, it can have a negative effect if leaders do not adequately explain their reasoning behind not wearing helmets. This can lead to novice climbers underestimating the importance of protecting their heads. I speak as one who spent his first seven years of climbing helmetless, believing that the probability of head injury was small enough to disregard. With hindsight, I would prefer that others were quicker to see the importance of this essential piece of personal protection.

Gregor Smith writes
As an inctructor risk assesment is a common term for me, but would you stop and evaluatewhether o put your cycle helmet on? find a helmet which is comfortable and wear it out of habit. use your risk assesment to avoid damaging your helmet not your head!

John writes
Well said Gregor. i think Mr. Wild is not wearing his helmet for aesthetic reasons or maybe he forgot the thing and won't admit it. When climbing in winter your helmet should really never leave your head until you're clear of all danger.

Chris writes
I totally agree with Roger Wilds comments about the wearing of helmets. To proscribe, "thou shalt wear a helmet at all times" without due consideration of the situation and making personal judgements is wrong. What really gets me is the attitude of people that think they know what is best for everyone else and insist on telling everyone. Once we leave the safety of the learning environment (going with experienced friends / instructors) as adults we should be able to make our own judgement calls on all these issues. That includes the situations of leading by example in training situations. As for risk assessment issues, Roger made his assessments on the factors involved, people, terrain, experience, weather and equipment. Too many people, including it appears, the last two contributors, do not seem to understand the whole point of risk assessment, which is to assess individual situations and not blindly follow a rule.

Derek Brown writes
I accept the whole thing about assessing risk, however people need to have the ability to assess the risk and potential consequences before making a decision. Until they get that skill and ability they need guidance of some sort that says - whenver you go climbing wear a hard had. If I was on my SPA assessment and didn't wear a helmet would I fail? Even if I had assesses the risk as negligable - I doubt if I would pass. So Safety officers should in the first instance provide the wider advice first and then qualify it by adding that all climbers can make informed choices.

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