Various activists in the climbing community have contributed the comments below:

Guy Robertson
I don't believe we need 'guidelines' as it goes against the whole ethos of the sport for me.  What individual climbers do when they're on a route is up to them; it only becomes an issue for me where they spoil someone else's fun. I suppose you could argue that bolts do this, but then so does in-situ gear. In many ways in-situ pegs and tat in winter are actually worse than bolts, because they use valuable placements and are generally not trustworthy.

I like sport climbing, and I would never go to the length of de-bolting a route. I do however firmly believe that as a sport climbing venue Scotland is almost certainly the worst place to go in Europe. Bolting up any old piece of rock - e.g. Arbroath sea cliffs, Rock Dust (where I'd previously done trad routes), etc – could gradually erode a rather bold and culturally interesting tradition.

The bottom line for me is that climbers will and should decide what's acceptable / desirable by going and climbing the routes in question. From a 'traditionalist' perspective, the future may well be bleak – just look at the state of most Dubh Loch E5+ routes, and consider this against the bumbling crowds at Benny Beg or Rock Dust on a nice sunny Sunday.

The Ramp pitch on The Needle, Shelterstone Crag (E1; VIII,8), another recorded 3 star mountain rock climb. But it is disjointed and ledged with loose rock in places. Is this acceptable as a winter line? Are its neighbours 'Steeple', 'The Spire', 'Haystack' or even 'The Pin' also fair game? Are peg scars from winter ascents acceptable even though they may reduce the enjoyment of future summer ascents?

Simon Richardson
There's no doubt that Scottish climbing has gone from strength to strength over the last ten years. More people are climbing than ever before. In summer, we have an energetic and strong bouldering scene and have seen development of significant new areas such as the Outer Isles that are now widely considered to have some of the best rock climbs in the UK. In winter, we have experienced a golden age of new routes and are now witnessing a phase of rapidly increasing standards.

Despite this vibrancy I sense the winds of change. The inevitable consequence of higher participation levels is greater commercial pressure on the sport. For the first time ever we have professional Scottish climbers. Supremely talented, they are obliged to stay at the forefront of the sport with a continuous series of publicised new developments to satisfy their sponsors. To match technical standards elsewhere in the world there are pressures to create bolted mountain sports climbs and pre-protected continental style mixed routes.

Scotland is a very special place. We have some of the wildest and most empty countryside in Europe. Away from the popular areas, it is possible to go hill walking all day and see nobody else. It is possible to climb on countless crags in the Northwest that only a handful of people have ever visited before. It is possible to study a map, find an unclimbed sea stack and then go and climb it.

But it's not just the wilderness that provides Scottish adventure. We are blessed with a landscape comprised of ancient rocks. Solid and weathered, cracked and featured they form corries, crags and sea cliffs that readily accept protection and are made for on sight climbing. We have no need to mimic climbers in Europe and North America who are largely driven by the quality of their rock to bolt and pre-protect their crags.

We have the playgrounds and the rock quality to be a world leader in on-sight climbing, in both summer and winter. If we're unable to climb certain lines without pre-protecting them, lets have the foresight and courage to leave them for future generations. Above all, lets have the confidence to recognise and celebrate the unique nature of Scotland and its climbing.   Simon Richardson on FA of Stack of Ulbster, Caithness. The SMC decided to have a moratorium on the recording of new routes in the Northern Highlands in 1970 to maintain the adventurous ethic of the area. We now record routes in this rapidly developing, and still traditional style, area. If there is one area in Scotland that has the history and feel and deserves to remain adventurous and bolt free on all cliffs then perhaps it is this?

Bruce Poll
I have quite strong views on the future of winter development, gained by climbing at the sharp end and trying to adhere to current thinking.

I am of the feeling that ground up on-sight climbing of terrain harder than Scottish technical 8/9 in full winter condition (i.e. iced up rocks or powder covered everything) is approaching a self-limiting grade because finding and placing protection becomes inherently harder because of the extreme body tension this climbing involves (reaching for gear is enough to make you slip off). Placing pegs in this position is impossible. In summer a new line on a mossy crag, normally involves prior cleaning, it is a bit hard to clean the snow off before climbing a route in winter hence the need for more pre-placed protection. I do not think that natural Scottish winter lines need bolts as they still tend to follow relatively obvious lines, and weaknesses normally yield the odd placement.

I feel there are climbers around capable of climbing harder but are limited by current ethics. They can climb M10+ abroad on cleaner rock with pre-placed protection, unfortunately Scottish ethics does not allow them to climb this hard here, or at least scorns them when they do. It would be a shame if Scotland becomes a soft option.

As steeper lines are climbed, their very nature means that they will hold less snow, so rather than have to wait for a specific wind direction to cover an overhanging route with a dusting, lets just climb them and let it be accepted as developing the sport to European levels of difficulty. I appreciate summer lines but for several years now I have seen no one climbing summer lines in Coire na Ciste on the Ben, but many hundreds have climbed up there in winter. The Ben is not alone in its apparent desertion of summer climbers.

I believe that to further develop climbing into the steeper mixed ground, prior placement of essential gear and route inspection become more accepted. The routes still need to have some snow on them or icy bits which I believe are the more normal winter conditions for Scotland. For this reason I think a policy of dry-tooling only in low level quarry style venues be continued. Classic summer lines should be avoided.

Niall McNair
Quite rightly in the Scottish scene there is a certain amount of anxiety generated over the winter bolting issue and this has led to more of us examining our attitudes to bolts in summer and in particular, the now defunct MCofS bolting policy which represented an elitist stance. I am not a winter climber so cannot contribute to that particular debate, however regarding rock climbing and the ongoing debate on suitable venues for sport routes, I feel it is now reaching saturation point. It is not a debate on whether sport is better than Trad or vice versa, indeed I believe that the psychological skills gained in Trad climbing can contribute to sport climbing and of course the strength and fitness from sport climbing contributes to Trad. I believe that there is enough rock in Scotland to cater for both. A new bolting policy has to be developed which will take into account the protection of existing and potential trad routes and venues but which will also allow the space for the development of sport routes at all level.

A fair number of young climbers nowadays will be getting introduced to climbing through walls and then sport climbing outside. This of course means that there will be a greater demand for lower grade routes. But at the same time with such a large number of new climbers developing their skills in this manner without opportunities to develop Trad climbing skills, then I fear that in the future a large number will not understand or appreciate traditional based climbing or venues. A sensible, enforceable policy should be developed to protect those venues. Already, interest in Trad climbing seems to declining as the "Old-Timers" have done everything and younger climbers would prefer to boulder or sport climb in trendier areas as dictated by the grit-centric magazines. This seems a real shame as Scotland has so much to offer in terms of adventure and sheer variety of venues.

Scott Muir
Embracing advances made elsewhere in the world is essential to progress not forgetting the earliest traditional development of climbing in this country (c1900 and before): that after a climb was established in summer, it was then bettered by an ascent in winter. This involved a variety of now unacceptable tactics, but which recently have been bettered – removing aid, rest points and falls. This process will continue.

Scotland is renowned for the on-sight ascent in winter. But we could adopt other styles of climbing traditional routes now accepted in summer; 'yo-yo', 'headpoint' and 'redpoint'. These are inferior to on-sight, but offer ways of pushing the limits where on-sight would mean death. Traditional rock climbing did not degenerate with the adoption of these styles but benefited with harder on-sight attempts. In winter, world-class routes at technical M11 standard and above on trad gear won't be done on-sight unless we gain higher performance by headpoint or redpoint.   Scott Muir on his Dry-tooling route Too Fast Too Furious (D12) in Birnam Quarry: the utilisation of an unattractive venue for traditional climbing. Its protagonists maintain this is a unique venue and does not open the floodgates to the Dry-tooling of traditional rock venues and of established climbs. photo: Joanna George

In winter we are challenged by the weather. All the cliffs that regularly freeze fall into a very small height band (500-1000+) so suitable winter sport crags are mountain crags. Venues like Lower Ben Udlaidh, would provide excellent sport style mixed crags that would not detract or interfere with the traditional winter lines on the main crag and offer a fantastic new resource. The 'feel' as the MCofS suggest of a crag indicates a very good way to determine the style of climbing on a crag.

The 'in-condition' issue is so blurred that it leads to hypocrisy on the part of many climbers with a “say one thing-do another” mentality. The adage 'if its easier to climb with winter gear, it's in condition' is probably the best advice. However, cleaning snow off 'in-condition' routes causes extreme rock damage with unnecessary scraping, Hoar and rime does 'not' protect the rock! The desperate mixed routes of the future will be impossible under a regulatory plastering. Damage reduction would be best achieved by an increase in climber's skills and techniques, rather than the current thrashing approach often witnessed.

The idea that winter only lines are the way forward for cutting edge routes is misplaced. They don't provide quality summer lines because they are vegetated and discontinuous. The 'very' hardest routes of the future will seek out blank, protection-less and sustained rock at a high angle that may never be totally 'white'. Either the climbing of all established mountain summer routes is fair game in winter, as in the past, or they are not and that needs deciding rapid style.

I hope winter routes of the future will use a variety of honestly reported styles and tactics; on-sight will remain the Queen of all ascents; routes that follow established summer climbs will either be shunned, or be open game under appropriate conditions for the route (the only rule being that all vegetation must always be frozen); sport mixed routes will become acceptable in certain locations; and we'll all enjoy our life of climbing.

John Mackenzie
Hindsight and self-satisfaction can always justify actions that foresight and a questioning mind would have condemned. Sometimes its not so much what we do but the attitude we do it in – are we climbing as a panacea for life's ills or as a means to bolster a fragile ego? This all sounds rather grand and by necessity rather simplistic to force the argument. The former is readily understandable as a way of life, whilst the latter may sacrifice both others and the mountain. These twin attributes shape how we climb and regard the future.

I don't claim to be a cutting edge rock jock or Grade 10 steel clawed guided muscle (alas) but do love my climbing, in particular in Scotland. After 40 years of doing this rather dotty activity I have to ask myself why it is still so darned attractive. Now I love sports climbing too and think that limestone is a wonderful rock to climb on especially when it's not raining, which it rarely does at the Costa's. But would I really enjoy a lifetime of following bolts up a wall, rather similar to another wall on another crag. I wonder. However I do continue to enjoy climbing a natural line on varied rock and take pleasure in finding and placing gear (preferably not too far apart). Now it may not be as difficult as the gleaming bolt ladder, but somehow its more ultimately satisfying. Likewise, on one of those (increasingly) rare winter days when the ice is plastic or the turf epicurean, what better than the satisfying thunk of picking and sticking your way up some great feature on that 'Ben'? Would it be the same if you were heading for fixed gear? Possibly not.

Now I'm referring to routes up to E4 and Grade V1, where the majority go. Beyond is not really my province to comment on; however I'll try. This is where attitude comes in; what are you doing it for? Is it worth careful consideration of the (obviously) unprotected lead before doing it, judging the mores of the locality, the rock type, the season etc or is it worth doing at any cost to the rock, you, or others feelings? In other words “it's not what you climb but how you do it what matters”. But if Scotland is largely adventure climbing, surely there is room for bolted compromise in some areas, if that is what the local view wants. However few would be happy with a scratched and pegged classic left after a winter siege; this would be pleasing yourself at the expense of the many. Gritstone (a rock I love) is not bolted but limestone often is and there are good reasons for that. Solid metamorphic or igneous rock, usually well cracked, is bolted only as a measure of last resort. Sometimes it is better to top-rope practice and declare it honestly and take the consequence rather than place that bolt, sometimes it isn't - it depends on the situation. But, and it is a big but, Scotland has a special feeling of place, so don't ruin it for the future, keep some virgin rock for those steel-digits of the future together with their as yet unthought of protection.

Andy Nisbet
Climbing rock in crampons is good fun. Especially torquing, where you control the holding power rather than just hooking and crossing your fingers. Just a pity the rock gets scratched, otherwise I'd be all over the crags. So what's the difference if the crags are snowy; just tradition really. We must accept that winter climbers have their right too, and also that controlled (as against scrabbling) winter climbing does little damage to most rock types. I wouldn't climb Sou-wester Slabs or Cioch Nose, because they are such good summer lines and so rarely in winter condition. But I would climb Eagle Ridge, Tower Ridge and Savage Slit. These routes have lots of ascents, but are they spoiled? I don't think so.   

So what should the dry-toolers climb? It would be easier if Scotland wasn't so well developed for rock climbing. First come, first served as they say. And bolting up the lines? This isn't so easy. The snag with bolts is that once you feel safe, you've lost half the spirit of leading, so you might as well top-rope. And then it just becomes a matter of strength, which is great if you're strong and proud of it, but rather boring if you're not. So climbing these big roofs on the Continent is boring? OK that's rubbish and I've gone round in a circle, so bolting must be acceptable in the right place, just like summer. But Scottish crags aren't that exciting, so we need to add in some extra challenges, like trying to find some snow and ice in a globally warmed world.

Climbing unfrozen turf? There's no doubt it does damage. But should we try and control it? I don't think so, mostly because it isn't practicable. Any mid-level route will have some unfrozen turf, and any low level route will have more. The backs of the ledges rarely freeze even in the high Cairngorms. As long as we are aware that the route will change if the turf is pulled out, and be as careful as we can, not to. Fortunately, climbing unfrozen ground is harder than climbing frozen, unlike dry tooling versus snowy.

Neil Shepherd
Overall I would like to see more sport climbing established in Scotland. In terms of numbers of routes it's still a small percentage of the total, but I do feel high mountain crags should remain bolt free, especially those in wilderness areas. Tunnel Wall and Glen Ogle are not high mountain crags and its time to hear less moaning about the bolts there. I see no reason why seacliffs should be bolt free.

“Last great problems” on crags with a strong trad background should not be bolted. Newly discovered crags, or those with some old diff scramble, which have been subsequently forgotten, are fair game as sport crags. I disagree with minimalist bolting, but feel retro bolting should be allowed with 1st ascentionist permission on crags that become accepted sport venues.

All pre-practice on new trad routes should be reported honestly, including even trying the odd move on abseil inspection as too often “checking the route” turns into a full-scale practice of hard moves. Red pointing trad is ok again as long as it's declared. Esoteric gear such as filed down nuts and skyhooks should also be clearly stated and hammered gear should not be used on trad routes. This would mean a ban on pegged routes, especially of the pseudo sport variety (i.e. Dalriada).

Winter bolting presents a difficult issue, but perhaps should be governed by the same rules as summer except allowance made in the case of high mountain crags that have no summer value or history as trad venues. Winter ascents of summer classics should only be done without hammered gear and ascentionists should attempt to minimise rock damage. Existing trad/sport routes should receive the highest level of protection from the dry tooling “sport”. It's devastating to rock, especially soft rock and should be confined to chossy cliffs if possible or done on artificial surfaces.

Neil Shepherd on FA 'Rubbing Salt into the Wound' F6a+, The Elephant, Arbroath sea cliffs. In most parts of the UK sea cliffs have traditionally been regarded as adventurous venues, whether loose north Devon Culm, or pristine Lundy Granite. The development at Arbroath broke that mould in Scotland to the dismay of some climbers, as much as the bolting on Lundy by Gary Gibson did in England. Local activist Neil Shepherd was responsible for earlier traditional routes, but felt the generally unprotectable, slightly sandy, small-pitch nature of Arbroath meant it was more suited to sport routes.

Neil Morrison
Crystal ball gazing is a tricky task as the next generation may have different values but for what its' worth I don't see the situation changing radically in the near future. I believe we have reached a pretty good idea of where to bolt and not to bolt over the last 15 years or so. We seem to have maximised the potential of the rock we have by bolting areas that were simply unattractive under any other guise. It maybe doesn't fit with the guidelines from 1990 but it fits with the rock we have and our trad rock and winter ethics.  Most of the people currently putting up bolt routes are sensitive to the wider ethics and are unlikely to start bolting indiscriminately. The next generation may see it differently but the classic trad and winter routes still seem to be what people aspire to with bolted routes seen as lesser fare. Having bolted a number of routes a further reason I think it's unlikely to spread much beyond the current situation because it's expensive, exhausting, time consuming, thankless and there are few really suitable venues. 

Wilson Moir
I do not have any objection to bolts being placed in appropriate places in Scotland. As I have got older I have become less inclined to frighten myself and part of the reason I enjoy sport climbing very much. I agree with the bolts on Creag a Bhancair, I only wish it was a bit closer to Aberdeen but I don't agree with bolts in the mountains. Big routes at the Dubh Loch and Shelter Stone are great tests of faith, ability and determination. They meant a great deal to me when I did them, but this phase of my life is past now and ironically, if they were bolted I would go back and climb them, and for totally different reasons.

I am more into movement now. Sport climbing, deep-water soloing and bouldering are much more fun than sitting on a belay ledge for ages, or scaring yourself to death. I would like to see more sport climbing in Scotland, on sea-cliffs or anywhere that there is overhanging quality rock which is unsuited to trad climbs. In the meantime I will keep visiting Spain and France for the vast number of brilliant sport routes they provide.

I still enjoy trad climbing where flowing movement is possible and continue to visit many areas in Scotland but I would like to see more quality sport venues in the country, instead of the, often inferior routes on scrappy/poor rock we have to contend with. Crags like Ceuse and Makinodromo would be good!

I think bolting has evolved in a common-sense way. Locally (Aberdeen) there are sport routes in quarries and on sea-cliffs that are deemed unsuited for trad routes. Fine. I would like to see some of the futuristic pieces of rock bolted on the coast, especially if it were to raise standards and, from a personal viewpoint, provide myself and friends with long-term but achievable goals.

Gordon Lennox
For me this is a very exciting time for climbing in Scotland. The number of challenges on existing routes has escalated in the last few years. This includes challenges in all forms of climbing through head pointing, onsight, bouldering, sport, big walls and winter. I believe the recent escalation is largely due to the number of British climbers and especially local Scottish climbers who are now climbing at a very high level, and perhaps adapting modern training, indoor walls and bouldering to other forms of climbing. The extensive increase in indoor walls has provided excellent training facilities, especially Ratho, which has combined excellent height, angle and route setting to provide good and realistic practice for onsighting sport routes, something which is not widely available in Scotland. On the negative side, I am concerned that something special may be lost, due to the mass drive towards safe convenience climbing. This can be seen by a lack of traffic and routes growing dirty on even classic mountain routes above a bumbly grade. Also the march of the drill, with retro bolting and bolting crack lines, with the focus on route popularity. Despite this, I have never been as focused and excited about climbing in Scotland and hope to achieve more personnel goals over the coming years.

Karin Magog
I love climbing in the Scottish mountains but it is the sea cliffs that I enjoy the most. I think that it is important that Scotland retains its adventurous traditional ethics. It is fantastic to be able to come up to Scotland and climb new quality lines ground up onsight, a very rare opportunity in England. If only you could do something about the dreaded midge!

Steve Crowe
I wouldn't like to see the spread of blanket or grid bolting that has taken place on some buttresses at Glen Ogle and elsewhere in Scotland. But I believe that Scotland has a truly world class venue on Craig a Bhancair where outstanding bolt protected climbs can reside beside great bold traditional routes. Tunnel Wall is a venue that Scotland ought to be proud of. However for me it is the Scottish Islands and Sea cliffs that are the big attraction. They offer great adventure and an opportunity for new routes that are still being tackled, ground up onsight. I am not necessarily against abseil inspection or pre practice but honesty is most important. I do consider that the use of pegs is inappropriate on the Scottish sea cliffs.

I don't think that sets of long and detailed rules are really of any use but open and frank debate is essential if we are to protect this great resource for future generations.

Steve Crow on FA (on-sight) of Gun Fhaimh (E6,6a), Ardnamurchan. A serious and loose conglomerate sea cliff which epitomises adventurous style climbing. Most of the routes have been done (or attempted) on-sight. Would it have been bolted had it been 'discovered' by those with an interest in sports style only? Who is best experienced to make that initial decision? What is it about the crags 'feel' that makes this an unsuitable sport venue?

The Scottish Climbing debate