The State of Scottish Climbing  YOUR COMMENTS  The debate on the future ethics of the sport in Scotland. Please take time to read the articles and the comments from and send your considered views on the new draft guidance to the MCofS, using the form at the foot of this page.  YOUR COMMENTS  page 1     page 2     page3     page 4 Martin McCallum writes: In Scotland we are blessed with some of the most beautiful and aesthetic mountains in the world. For many centuries these have been ascended, but only for the past couple hundred has it really been classed as a leisure pastime. This pastime has now developed into a passion for many and indeed a profession for a few. The overall spirit of simply ascending the mountain from bottom to top has remained at the core of our pastime though it has developed such that we have striven to find more interesting and challenging ways to ascend the mountain. This lies at the centre of Scottish climbing where we choose to ascend a route, protecting ourselves where we feel the need, but returning the mountain to its natural state after our passing. Scottish climbing in its purest state personifies: 'Take nothing but photographs, leave nothing but memories.' This is the simple ethic followed by the vast majority of climbers in Scotland and is the envy of the world. The debate we have today centres around the ways in which we choose to protect ourselves while ascending. I think that we are not paying enough attention to the fact that we are dealing with ascents, not going to the top, abseiling down, then climbing up again. Scottish climbing is about ground up ascents. Over the years we have developed technology such that we no longer simply wrap rope round rocks to protect ourselves, but have developed sophisticated devices we temporarily lodge in cracks and irregularities in the rock. Technology and its practitioners are not perfect and sometimes these devices cannot be removed. Indeed some of these devices, notably pitons but also sometimes chocks, cause damage to the rock. Occasionally we ourselves are unable through either difficult climbing situations or pure blind panic, to remove these devices. This is unfortunate but a fact of life we have come to accept. Where things have begun to differ now, is the desire by certain individuals to intentionally enter our mountains and leave behind them devices (expansion bolts) that necessitate damage to the rock for insertion and will be left behind. This is combined with the fact that insertion of these devices is very difficult on a ground up ascent and is normally accomplished by abseiling down a route. It is undeniable that insertion of the normal protection devices leaves some damage in the rock, our very passing using axes and crampons does so too, however this is very often recovered by nature due to simple weathering. The intentional drilling of holes in rock is a whole new area. Can we justify these changes? There is a group who feel that climbing in Scotland, particularly in winter, needs the addition of new permanent protection devices that are generally inserted during abseils of the route in question. Their primary motivation for this seems to be a need to develop climbs where they push themselves physically, and perhaps also mentally, in an exercise that is already generally accepted in outdoor environments in Europe and North America. What benefits does this bring to the majority of those who choose Scotland for their mountain pastimes? I would argue none. In fact it undermines the very core of the Scottish climbing experience, which has at its centre ground up ascents in an environment that is wild and unspoiled. It is this interaction with nature, through ascents of its mountains, that draws us to the outdoors, and the fact that we have what is fast becoming a unique unspoiled resource is something to be protected. Our mountains remain a natural resource, it is up to us to maintain this and pass it on to our descendants, not to spoil them simply to satisfy the needs of a few who desire to have close to hand climbs that are already available through relatively cheap and easy travel. Mountaineering has a long history of individuals travelling to experience different mountain environments, this should be encouraged and the mountains of Scotland kept for the vast majority who believe they are a natural unspoiled resource. Barney writes: Here's my 2pence worth: Placing bolts in Scottish Mountains goes agains the proud history and traditions of Scottish climbing and is therefore unacceptable. I am against the use of bolts in mountain locations summer or winter. I do not accept that the pushing of winter standards is sufficient reason to destroy this tradition. The arguement of fixed pegs being dangerous also does not change this view as all fixed equipment should be checked before use and replaced if dodgy - bolts, pegs, slings etc. Putting more fixed gear in is not going to help this situation. Even bolts wear-out over time and the damage is not always visible. On low level locations bolting should be confined to sites that are rarely used and poor trad-climbing venues. The current trend towards bolting easier venues should continue so long as they are carefully chosen. The bolting of crack lines and other easily protectable climbs (relative to the grade) is not acceptable, even at an otherwise sport crag. Steve Wright says: Ground up with all gear placed on lead is the best way to go. The current policy of no-bolts in the mountains should be stuck with. On lowland crags bolts should only be used in areas where no trad protection exists. If there is any doubt, no bolt should be placed. Ian Parnell writes: My concerns are with the use of bolt protection for winter routes in Scotland (while I have opinions on summer bolts I do so little summer climbing in Scotland I think it is more appropriate to stick with the winter game where I'm active).  I feel there is a very very strong feeling amongst the vast majority of climbers involved in Scottish winter against any use of bolts at all.  This opinion is drawn from conversations with approx 100 activists, involvement in the International Meet and reviewing the comments made on websites scottishclimbs.com and Ukclimbing (while website chat needs to be taken with a pinch of salt it cannot be ignored - it is one forum. And I think any disspationate obserbver would agree the majority of posters are against the recent bolting of the route Crossroads) Time precludes me from a detailed response (my arguments have been made several times in previous published pieces but I would underline the following points. Scottish Winter Climbing has a long very well respected tradition that needs protecting.  No other area has such a pure adventurous ethic - this is what defines Scottish winter climbing and is one of the main reasons why it attracts so many participants from all over the globe.  Bolting would muddy this ethic with a high chnace that it could spread and render this unique area as homogenised as any other winter area. There is no NEED or demand for the introduction of bolts into scottish winter climbing.  The following reasons have been raised as a need for winter bolts they are all easily refuted. Scottish winter climbing standards are lagging behind.  WRONG.  Successive International meets have proved this not to be the case with world class participants being challenged by our routes.  Remember we are talking about onsight not worked routes.  The activities of the likes of Dave MacLeod have shown that there is plenty of potential to push the boundaries without the use of bolts. There is a desire for well protected steep routes. TRUE, but there is no shortage of well protected trad winter routes (getting ascents every weekend) in Scotland already so we don't need bolts to facilitate this. Secondly there is little terrain to provide the sort of steep continental style routes only protectable by bolts that might demand non trad pro.  Luckily most of our rock is good (unlike Vail, USA) and relatively vertical suiting a trad approach. There is a demand for winter sports climbing.  VERY DEBATABLE.  Visits this year to The Ben and the Northern Corries met with huge amounts of climbers enjoying the Scottish winter experience.  I never heard a lament for more sport routes instead climbers were revelling in the trad experience. In summary Scottish winter climbing is in a in a very healthy state, please do not mess up this success story. Chris Wilson writes: With Reference to section 7, paragraph c; I don't understand why a lead climber should have priorty over a top roped climber. both are climbers and doing what they love and it should not be anybody's place to tell any climber who is the more important! i am a lead climber but i have never seen any problem with patential waiting for route if a person is top roping it. isn't our sport simply about enjoying climbing and not about elitism? rember most of us started on a top rope. Dennis Morrod: Si O'Conor writes: "I am bolting two crags in the Hebrides but there are no - objections..."? Really! Yes there are. There have been objections to the bolting (deliberate damage) of unquarried, natural crags, sea cliffs and mountain faces from Lands End to the Highlands of Scotland for many years now. Royster: This debate will rage on and on, if bolting starts, it's the thin end of the wedge, bolts will appear all over the place. The enjoyable summer classic that turns into a winter testpiece will end up with bolts, join the dots and win a major prize time, I climbed Savage Slit in Coire an Lochan in October of this year, the last time was about 14 years previous, and I was horrified at the state of it through winter ascent, although this route remains unbolted, it is seeing a lot of winter traffic, what would happen if bolts were rattled in, scratch one Summer classic. Bolting is similar to placing signs up a mountain path, there would be an outcry if we signed a path and it would make it safer (but boring and tedious). Then places like The Etive Slabs would "get it". Leave well alone, if ye canny climb it without bolts, go buy a ladder. Pitch-In

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