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BOOK (and FILM) REVIEWS
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The Naked Mountain by Reinhold Messner
(Translated by Tim Carruthers) Published by Crowood.
Hard Back. 316pages. 152 illustrations. ISBN 1-86126-633-2
I have a confession. Many years ago, at a BMC Conference, I fell asleep during a lecture by Reinhold Messner. It wasn't that I was somehow unimpressed, but his delivery just fell short of the mark. Much was lost in translation. So, maybe you can understand the sense of heaviness when this book landed in my lap.
This time, sleep eluded me for a few days, and I eventually put the book down – stunned by Messner's account of events, and very impressed by the translation. This really is a gripping piece of writing, and Tim Carruthers lively translation style draws the reader in, from the early (1930's) expeditions, through to the final tragic episode, played out descending the immense Diamir face of Nanga Parbat.
24 years old at the time, Reinhold Messner, and his brother, Gunther, were part of the 1970 German (Herligkoffer) expedition to the Rupal face of Nanga Parbat. All 5,200m. 33 years later Messner recounts events, with the perspective of both “protagonist and observer”, as, at the absolute limit of endurance, he and Gunther top out and begin their unroped descent of the Diamir face – a decision influenced by Herligkoffer sending off the wrong colour of signal flare from lower on the mountain. This was a decision which was to cost Gunther his life, buried under avalanche debris close to safety, after a monumental epic experience.
This book could all to easily have turned into a platform for recrimination, especially with Herligkoffer's death in Munich in 1991 at the age of 75, but what we see here is an insight into Messner's experiences, once some of the curtains of ego are drawn back. The translation reads like a good thriller, drawing the reader back through historical epics; treading the footsteps of climbers right on the edge of things, and so on to Messner's experience of absolute solitude towards the end.
If, like myself, you thought an expedition account of an 8000'er might not be relevant to your own life, try this one. It's special.
Tony Stephenson
Walking in Scotlands' Far North
by Andy Walmsley
Published by Cicerone. Paperback. 150pages. Full colour (39 photos). 19 maps.
ISBN: 1-85284-377-2.
This is a very comprehensive little book, packed with helpful local information and plenty of walks. Andy has managed to include routes up and down the various hills in the far north, with many alternatives to suit all tastes. He has also included many of the lesser and quieter hills. There should be something for everyone.
The route descriptions certainly imply he has walked every inch himself and are very honest. I relived many a walk in the area and my mind 'enjoyed' the ones I have yet to do! To-ing and Fro-ing through the book's maps is slightly annoying as one is reading but that is a very small niggle in a very good wee book.
I now hunger to get back to the Far North of Scotland, an area I have always favoured.
Pet Thomas
Norway: The Northern Playground
by W. Cecil Slingsby
Published by RippingYarns. 2003. Paperback. 234 pages. ISBN 1-904466-07-9.
 Slingsby was a renowned mountaineer in the late nineteenth century. In Scandinavia he is still regarded as the pioneering father of Norwegian mountaineering, claiming many first ascents on remote peaks during the course of over 20 visits. Even by modern standards, his solo on-sight climb of the final 500 feet of the spectacularly beautiful Store Skagastolsind in the Hurrungane is a remarkably bold achievement.
Norway has undergone huge changes since Slingsby's time: then people travelled by boat or pony, maps were poor or non-existent; bears were prevalent and even occasionally seized cattle, the scourge of peasant farmers who went on expeditions to shoot them. Comparing the extent of the glaciers as described by Slingsby with their extent today illustrates the extensive retreat over the last century, which is desperately sad.
Some things don't change over the years, however. Slingsby was very familiar with the enormous mosquitoes, bloodsucking cleggs and biting hornets that plague visitors to this day; the further north you go the more plentiful, vicious and hungry they get; there's no escape. Rainy, sleety days continue to run into each other to give wet weeks, one after another, and the harsh winters are legendary.
Slingsby covered an impressive number of mountain ranges during his visits despite difficult travel; indeed, Norway is still the land of the long walk-in; absorb the last paragraph on page 221.
The book is an account of several expeditions, with various companions, Norsk and British, including Norman Collie in the Lofoten; mostly to virgin peaks and glaciers. Some of the trips were arduous and hazardous - these chapters are best appreciated when read in the gloaming with Greig's Peer Gynt playing in the background, preferably the Hall of the Mountain King. The author describes his ventures into grand cirques and over Dali-esque peaks where surely Trolls and Huldras still live in caves. In Chapter 11 he describes his ascent and crossing of the Kjaendalsbreen and speaks of it as a “truly terrible glacier” and “offering formidable icework”. Happily, it is still easy to have a good epic in Norway. He mixed with the local people, taught them mountaineering skills and encouraged them to act as guides. He even learned their incomprehensible language!
This is a truly delightful book and is recommended reading equally to all first visit mountaineers and Norge addicts. Despite being written a century ago it is still a relevant guide as there has been little change to the landscape due to human impact; indeed the place to visit if you appreciate wild land.
Beryl Leatherland
From the Himalaya to Skye
by Norman Collie
Published by Luath Press. 2003. 132 pages. ISBN 1-84282-027-3
From the outset, it should be said that this is more than a book; it is a document, a testament to a time, to a beginning and to a man. Collie's attitudes mark the beginnings of an intensifying of interest in all things outdoor. While part of his gaze was backward to those in society, 'at home' - who saw no worth in these barren wastes of mountains, we can recognise and empathise with his deep love of the wild, and, then, empty mountains of the world
The book is divided into two main sections, the first dealing with Collie's trip to the Himalaya, and the attempt on Nanga Parbat, in 1895. The rest of the book details trips to places as far flung as the Lofoten Islands and the Canadian Rockies, as well as his love of the Cuillin, and the first winter ascent of Tower Ridge
The style of the book errs on the side of dryness: while there is no doubting the emotions that Collie felt whether it be viewing the wilderness massifs of the greater ranges or the death of his friend and companion, Mummery, there is a sense of detachment throughout the book, in the manner of its telling.
However, this book is a 'must read', for any climber. It marks the first steps in our sport, and has much to teach us as we follow our own specific interests in climbing, lest we narrow our view and lose track of the grandeur that surrounds us as we pursue our sport.
Craig MacAdam
Rippingyarns READER OFFER:
The two books reviewed above are classic out of print books which are now available again from Rippingyarns. Both The Northern Playground by Slingsby (Code: NS103), and, From Himalaya to Skye by Normal Collie (Code: NF027) are being offered at a discount to readers:
Buy 1 for £9.00 (plus £1.50 p&p)
Or
Buy 2 for £18.00 (Free p&p)
Orders should be sent (quoting the Scottish Mountaineer Codes above) to:
Cordee Books and Maps, 3a De Montfort Street, Leicester, LE1 7HD.
Tel: 0116 254 3579 Fax: 0116 247 1176.
Email: sales@cordee.co.uk. Web: www.cordee.co.uk.
Pocket Mountain Guides
by Nick Williams.
Published by Pocket Mountains Ltd. Card Backed. Full colour.
In the multitude of walking books and guides, 'Where to start?' is often a good question. The answers are all here. Those difficult to plan routes can now be found easily, miles saved. Not to mention the hours saved on the planning which can now be spent on actually walking, if you are desperate to just get out, get going and enjoy our countryside. Don't forget your maps and compass tho!
These little gems are brilliant jewels, which are aptly named (they fit in your pocket) and well thought out to incorporate relevant computer enhanced snippets of 1945 OS maps (re surveyed by the author) all in 96 pages each guide. I can hardly wait for the next three, due out summer 2004. Though I'll need a jacket with two pockets to carry them, but, depending where you go, just leave five in the car!
David Smeaton
Titles Received:
Northern Highlands. ISBN 0-9544217-1-X.
Southern Highlands. ISBN 0-9544217-0-1.
The Cairngorms. ISBN 0-9544217-2-8.
Yosemite, Half a Century of Dynamic Rock Climbing
by Alex Huber and Heinz Zak
Published by Baton Wicks.
Hard Back. 176pages. 180 colour photos. ISBN1-898573-57-3
The front cover says it all; sun-kist rock, gargantuan rock architecture, stunning lines. Alex Huber with his brother Thomas, have become the modern masters of free climbing in 'The Valley' and so Alex is eminently qualified to write an appraisal of its fine climbs; but he has cleverly left it to some of the main protagonists to write their own story of some of the landmark ascents through its history, from Warren (The Bat) Harding to Leo Holding. Alex weaves their accounts together and even allows his brother 'free rein' on the story of North America Wall, to bring “the whole” to us in a humble and authoritative manner.
Heinz Zak's photos excel, you will not see better climbing shots and only Ansel Adams beats his scenic portfolio.
As a young climber I poured over previous epoch tomes such as Edliger's 'Opera Vertical' depicting the stunning Verdon Gorge, Godfroy and Cheltons 'Climb' of Colorado. But it was Meyer's 'Yosemite Climber' which really fuelled my imagination. Hubers modern version of this older book meets the aspirations of the new generation, espouses the ethic of 'hard, fast and free' and will inspire anyone who reads it; I wish I were 20 years younger! Leo explains this approach as 'I am convinced it is better to fail in superior style, then succeed in any other'. The Huber brothers are Olympic standard climbers and in this book with Heinz Zak they have succeeded in superior style.
Kevin Howett
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