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BOOK REVIEWS
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'A Brief History Of British Mountaineering'
by Colin Wells. Published by The Mountain Heritage Trust. Paperback. 120pp. Full colour
This book has been produced to accompany the opening of the National Mountaineering Exhibition at the Rheged Centre in Cumbria. From the first ever recorded rock climb in 1802 by romantic poet Coleridge on Scafell to Leo Holding in The Modern World, all in 120 pages, it could only be a brief history. It concentrates on the activities of the 'Brits Abroad' with the 'golden age' of alpinism, Mummery and the birth of 'modern alpinism' and the greater ranges' most notable events involving K2 and Everest. All the big names are there, Tilman, Shipton, Irvine, Mallory, even Crowley! At home, the recognised first true rock climber, Owen Glynne Jones is well documented along with Sid Cross and lady members of the Pinnacle Club. Mention is made of Bill Murray and Bell although the SMC of the time come out badly as ".. increasingly stuffy and moribund..". Brown and Whillans are justifiably prominent, as is Bonington and Scott. Scottish ascendancy in winter in the 1950's is covered with Tom Patey and Robin Smith, but thereafter it concentrates on the likes of Livesey, Fawcett, Moffat, Pritchard and Holding as if Scottish modern climbers have made little new impact. My overall impression is a good job done, although I feel Wells may perhaps have had less access to information from Scotland and with only one profile of a Scot, some notable pioneers are missing. It's a good read nonetheless.
Kevin Howett
Special Offer: MCofS members can get a copy from the BMC at £10 (inc p&p).
'Fontainebleau Climbs'
by Montchausse & Godoffe
Published by Baton Wicks/The Mountaineers. 240pp. ISBN 1-898573-49-2.
 Bouldering is the new direction. The Peak district heroes have given up the more dangerous versions of climbing seen in the 'Hard Grit' video and have bought themselves a bouldering mat, the latest copy of the 'slap it' video and the Peak bouldering guide instead. The other great UK venue, Northumberland, has a guidebook designed to put you off and so everyone is heading out to Fontainbeau for their holidays. And this guide is as good as you can get. Excellent, inspiring photos, superb maps and topos, a beginners guide, historical, computer-style icons which offer at-a-glance info for an area, or a boulder (sunny, child friendly, how busy, how committing and how far from the road) and explanation of all those strange French 'circuits'. 'Font' is the true home of "the impossible art" and its guide, written by the doyens of the area, reflects its supremacy.
Kevin Howett
'The Wall'
by Alexander and Thomas Huber.
Translated by Tim Carruthers, Published by David & Charles
Hardback, 128pp. ISBN 0 7153 1178-6
The Huber brothers are undoubtedly the most successful climbing team of modern times. Their rock ascents on big walls are second to none.
This large format full colour book allows both brothers to give their views of their best climbs and although they are not the most eloquent of writers, they do manage to convey the differences between their feelings and motivations. In this sense it offers a new approach and insight into a unique climbing partnership. Unfortunately, the quality of the photos is lacking and some designer wag thought it was a good idea to overlay hand drawn topos of the routes over the photos with the result that neither can be seen properly. There is a lot left unsaid and for the price the quality of the books reproduction lets it down, but if you are interested in hard rock climbing this will not present a barrier to buying a copy and being motivated to get down the gym.
Kevin Howett
'La Palma'
Rother Walking Guide by Klaus & Annette Wolfperger
Published by Cordee. 174pp. ISBN 3-7633-4808-5.
Translated to English by Tony Pearson, this gives 50 selected walks on the coast and mountains of the most westerly of the Canary Islands, featuring the verdant mountains around the islands centrepiece, Caldera de Taburiente, the spectacular cliffs of the northwest coast and the volcanic summit of Pico Birigoyo. Perhaps the most amazing of all these islands.
Kevin Howett
'Chomolungma Sings the Blues'
by Ed Douglas
Published by Constable & Robinson. Paperback. 226pp. ISBN 1-84119-400-X.
Renowned outdoor writer Ed Douglas spent 1995 & 1996 travelling in Nepal and Tibet, encountering politicians, environmentalists, mountaineers and local people. His book, first published in 1997, is a travel book with a difference. Amongst the stories of bodies and heaps of garbage abandoned on the slopes of 'The Goddess Mother of the Earth' (Everest) he discusses the problems of a poor region struggling with far greater problems than the rubbish left by climbers. This paperback edition includes an update on his views of those problems since he first visited.
Kevin Howett
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