TALKING POINT
The State of Scottish Climbing
Part 3 The Tyrol Declaration on Mountain Sports
and Scottish Ethics
“Stretch your limits, lift your spirits and aim for the top”
(UIAA Declaration)
Last issue we gave some examples of the comments received on the subject of the future of Scottish climbing that had been posted on our website. We have encouraged people to make comment direct to us, through Climber magazine and the other website climbing forums, but even now only 20 people have done so. This is not to say that passions are not high, and the issue is creating much debate on scottishclimbs.com and UKclimbing.com forums, although some of this has degenerated into personality clashes and character crucifixion. Many viewpoints mirror those in the MCofS forum, although there is little in the way of constructive suggestions that could answer the questions posed in our first discussion in Scottish Mountaineer Issue 25 (December 2004). Perhaps this is because it is so difficult to do?
But while we are naval gazing it is perhaps time to look further afield at the views of the rest of the world regarding our sport and to see how adventure and sport styles of climbing are regarded.
This is best done through the Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme (The International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation). A UIAA conference on the Future of Mountain Sports at Innsbruck on September 8, 2002, passed a set of values and maxims to provide guidance on best practice in mountain sports. This was 'The Tyrol Declaration on Best Practice in Mountain Sports'. These are not rules or detailed instructions, rather they:
- Define today's fundamental values in mountain sports
- Contain principles and standards of conduct
- Formulate the ethical criteria for decision-making in uncertain situations
- Present the ethical principles by which the public can judge mountain sports
- Introduce beginners to the values and moral principles of their sport.
The Declaration picks up on the traditional unwritten values and codes of conduct inherent in the sport. These hold true for all individuals engaged in mountain sports worldwide - whether they be hikers and trekkers, sport climbers, or mountaineers seeking to push their limits at high altitudes. Even if some of the guidelines for conduct are of relevance for only a small elite, a lot of the proposals formulated in the Tyrol Declaration are addressed to the mountain sports community as a whole, especially the youth.
The Tyrol Declaration is an appeal to:
- Accept the risks and assume responsibility
- Balance your goals with your skills and equipment
- Play by fair means and report honestly
- Strive for best practice and never stop learning
- Be tolerant, considerate and help each other
- Protect the wild and natural character of mountains and cliffs
- Support local communities and their sustainable development.
Worldwide values:
Looking at the Values, Articles and Maxims of the Declaration (see the box opposite) what, you may ask; can we learn that will help in our discussions of the way forward in Scotland? Further detail on each article can be found on the UIAA website, from which the following key items are pertinent to our situation:
- We should always practice our activities in an environmentally sensitive way and be proactive in preserving nature.
- We strive to leave no trace. This means that climbers should not increase fixed protection on existing routes. The exception is when there is a local consensus - including agreement from the first ascensionists - to change the level of fixed protection by placing new gear or removing existing gear.
- We realize that future generations will need to find their own NEW adventures within this limited resource. We try to develop crags or mountains in a way that doesn't steal opportunity from the future. Within a region where bolts are accepted, it is desirable to keep routes, sections of cliffs, or entire cliffs free of bolts in order to preserve a refuge for adventure and to show respect for diverse climbing interests. In cases of conflicting interest groups, climbers should resolve their differences through dialogue.
- Commercial pressures should never influence the climbing ethics of a person or a region.
- The first ascent of a route or a mountain is a creative act. It should be done in at least as good a style as the traditions of the region and show responsibility toward the local climbing community and the needs of future climbers.
- We will not deface the rock by chopping or adding holds.
- In alpine regions, first ascents should be done exclusively on lead. After giving full respect to local traditions, it is up to the first ascentionist to determine the level of fixed protection on their route. In areas designated as wilderness or natural reserves bolts should be limited to an absolute minimum. Adventure routes should be left as natural as possible, relying on removable protection whenever it is available and using bolts only when necessary. The independent character of adjacent routes must not be compromised.
The Scottish Traditions in climbing
The Declaration embraces the use of bolts, at the same time placing great store on adventure and maintaining the future scope for adventure. It also asks climbers to respect traditional local ethics. In relation to our own deliberations, many of the comments relate to these values.
For example, in relation to the leave no trace message, to some, bolts are regarded as an 'industrial' and tangible indication that we have been there, but like the declaration, there seems to be an acceptance of bolts 'in the right place' by all sides, although defining where becomes the argument. Low lying crags still appear acceptable sport venues by most. Mountains generally are the venue where most conflict arises, particularly in winter. Sea cliffs are also regarded as adventurous and seen as an area that should be bolt free. The difficulty comes when there are 'exceptions' and so far these are Creag a Bhancair and Arbroath. The former is still contentious; the latter less so. Indeed, there is an argument that we cannot be hypocritical accepting bolts at Creag a Bhancair and not at a 'similarly exceptional' venue for winter. The idea that 'anything goes' in quarries has also been criticised, since there are important and hard lines in some central belt quarries yet to be climbed. Retro bolting is universally decried.
One message that seems to have hit a cord is that of Scotland (UK) being regarded as unique in the world with its adventure style and ethic (particularly in winter). Some regard our standards as lagging behind those in other countries in terms of technical achievements, others see our style as being at the cutting edge and admired by other countries.
A compromise would appear to embrace the idea that our rock is such that adventure without bolts is possible at many grades and this is what should be the focus of the future but where applicable, sport routes should be established. But where?
What next?
The MCofS Annual Gathering at Glenmore Lodge on June 18th this year will have a debate on the issues that have come forward so far. There has also been a call for a further open debate, this time in the central belt and we shall be looking into this possibility in the Stirling Area.
Much of the web forum comment concerns last winters development of sport mixed routes on Beinn Udlaidh by Scott Muir. 'Climber' magazine Scottish correspondent Mike Reed makes a statement against them in the April edition of 'Climber' and states “Hopefully … the BMC, SMC and MCofS will … come forward to make a stand one way or the other”. Postings on the web have asked MCofS to make a statement on this development, mainly to come out against it.
But everyone should be mindful that MCofS cannot act as 'police' to stop individuals either placing or removing bolts. Like the UIAA, all we can hope to do is act as mediators to find if there is either a clear consensus of opinion or an acceptable compromise with principles upon which most climbers can agree.
This is not possible unless those with strong views commenting on web forums can make constructive comment about the draft codes direct to us. We urge them to participate by logging onto our discussion on the MCofS website, writing direct to us at the office, or attending the annual gathering or a future debate.
“I'm not Scottish and I come from a country where bolts are numerous: France. I absolutely love climbing in Scotland. I love the commitment, I love the spirit and I love the ethic. I would not change it for anything if it was just for me. Add to this that it is now nearly as expensive to climb in Scotland as it is to fly out to France or Spain sport crags. So I am thinking: if you want to find bolts why not go there and let Scotland remain a stronghold of bold climbing.”
Erick Baillot
“People climb for very different reasons. Rampant widespread bolting simply has not taken place despite often alarmist cries. And bolting has generally taken place on crags not lending themselves to a traditional approach.
However there are sad exceptions, notably Creag A Bhancair, because the extra bolts have reduced what were once extremely committing and respect-demanding routes to stress free sports routes in a pretty setting, if still physically demanding.
There's lots of rock out there to accommodate different visions of climbing. Retro-bolting should be taboo, along with the bolting of established trad roadside, seacliff, mountain crags, and quarried rock. But what about new crags and blank sections of existing crags? The difficulty is always in the grey area and how bold does something have to be before bolts are justified? And what's wrong with bolts in winter on appropriate lines if we're happy to have them in summer?”
Jon Ashdown
The Tyrol Declaration on Best Practice on Mountain Sports
Values:
The Declaration is based on the following hierarchy of values:
- Human dignity - the premise that human beings are born free and equal in dignity and rights and should treat one another in the spirit of brotherhood. Particular attention should be given to equal rights of men and women.
- Life, liberty and happiness - as inalienable human rights and with a special responsibility in mountain sports to help protect the rights of communities in mountain areas.
- Intactness of nature - as a commitment to secure the ecological value and natural characteristics of mountains and cliffs worldwide. This includes the protection of endangered species of flora and fauna, their ecosystems and the landscape.
- Solidarity - as an opportunity through participation in mountain sports to promote teamwork, cooperation and understanding and overcome barriers due to gender, age, nationality, level of ability, social or ethnic origin, religion or belief.
- Self-actualization - as a chance through participation in mountain sports to make meaningful progress towards important goals and achieve personal fulfillment.
- Truth - as recognition that in mountain sports honesty is essential to evaluate accomplishments. If arbitrariness replaces truth, it becomes impossible to assess performance in climbing.
- Excellence - as an opportunity through participation in mountain sports to strive for previously unattained goals and to set higher standards.
- Adventure - as recognition that in mountain sports the management of risk through judgment, skills and personal responsibility is an essential factor. The diversity of mountain sports allows everyone to chose their own adventure, where skills and dangers are in balance.
The Articles of the Tyrol Declaration
Article 1 - Individual Responsibility
MAXIM
Mountaineers and climbers practice their sport in situations where there is risk of accidents and outside help may not be available. With this in mind, they pursue this activity at their own responsibility and are accountable for their own safety. The individual's actions should not endanger those around them nor the environment.
Article 2 - Team Spirit
MAXIM
Members of the team should be prepared to make compromises in order to balance the interests and abilities of all the group
Article 3 - Climbing & Mountaineering Community
MAXIM
We owe every person we meet in the mountains or on the rocks an equal measure of respect. Even in isolated conditions and stressful situations, we should not forget to treat others as we want to be treated ourselves.
Article 4 - Visiting Foreign Countries
MAXIM
As guests in foreign cultures, we should always conduct ourselves politely and with restraint towards the people there - our hosts. We will respect holy mountains and other sacred places while seeking to benefit and assist local economy and people. Understanding of foreign cultures is part of a complete climbing experience.
Article 5 - Responsibilities of Mountain Guides and other Leaders
MAXIM
Professional mountain guides, other leaders and group members should each understand their respective roles and respect the freedoms and rights of other groups and individuals. In order to be prepared guides, leaders and group members should understand the demands, hazards and risks of the objective, have the necessary skills, experience and correct equipment, and check the weather and conditions.
Article 6 - Emergencies, Dying and Death
MAXIM
To be prepared for emergencies and situations involving serious accidents and death all participants in mountain sports should clearly understand the risks and hazards and the need to have appropriate skills, knowledge and equipment. All participants need to be ready to help others in the event of an emergency or accident and also be ready to face the consequences of a tragedy.
Article 7 - Access and Conservation
MAXIM
We believe that freedom of access to mountains and cliffs in a responsible manner is a fundamental right. We should always practice our activities in an environmentally sensitive way and be proactive in preserving nature. We respect access restrictions and regulations agreed by climbers with nature conservation organizations and authorities.
Article 8 - Style
MAXIM
The quality of the experience and how we solve a problem is more important than whether we solve it. We strive to leave no trace.
Article 9 - First Ascents
MAXIM
The first ascent of a route or a mountain is a creative act. It should be done in at least as good a style as the traditions of the region and show responsibility toward the local climbing community and the needs of future climbers.
Article 10 - Sponsorship, Advertising and Public Relations
MAXIM
The cooperation between sponsors and athletes must be a professional relationship that serves the best interests of mountain sports. It is the responsibility of the mountain sports community in all its aspects to educate and inform both media and public in a proactive manner.
For more information on International issues see: www.uiaa.ch
For the full declaration see http://www.uiaa.ch/article.aspx?c=229&a=137.
|
