Issue 25 December 2004
SPORTS DEVELOPMENT NEWSREALrock 2004Report by Kevin Howett This summer's Realrock sessions were run in August and were a resounding success, without doubt the best series so far, with 42 sessions being delivered across the country by MCofS volunteers. In the north Ruairidh Mackenzie took sessions at Duntelchaig, Fred Belcher and Gary Wardrope delivered sessions at the Aberdeen sea cliffs, Ken Johnston and Martin McCallum covered the Glasgow area, visiting Craigmore, Auchinstarry and Neilston Pad, and Davy Virdee, myself and Andrew Briggs delivered various sessions at Tullimet, Polney Crag, The Hawcraig, Rosyth Quarry and Traprain Law. The weather varied between superb and appalling, it coinciding with torrential rains that led to the Glen Ogle landslides! Although safety was obviously important, so too was the atmosphere of fun. With mothers and fathers also attending, the banter was more akin to an informal meeting of friends and with all the children already being competent indoors but having little experience of the real stuff, this helped them relax and not be phased out by the scale and the unknown of the crag environment. Indoors, the holds are obvious (painted bright colours!) and many of the children had difficulty at first 'reading' the rock in order to find the easiest way. Basic ropework (double rope techniques as opposed to single 'sport' systems) setting up belays, multiple anchors, abseiling as well as ethics and care for the crag environment were all part of the sessions. Experience between the children varied so those relatively new to the activity developed their competence in these basics, as well as acting as seconds on a route (removing the gear). The more experienced were all competently leading routes by the end of the sessions, indeed I was surprised how quickly they took to placing 'natural' gear such as 'Rocks' and 'Friends' and with help from the volunteers were soon competently placing reliable protection. I would like to thank all the volunteers for giving up a lot of their time over the two weeks and the children (and parents) for their sense of humour and willingness to learn that made it all worthwhile. Same again next year? Meantime we hope to hold an occasional Saturday session so look out for details on our website. “Trad climbing is awesome can't wait to do some more” “Aline and Ross were at Limekilns last weekend. Aline very confidently trad led two VS routes. The REALrock sessions really paid off. She also climbed an E2 on a top rope. Ross did more leading training using a top rope, trying to jump from crimp to crimp. He climbed VS, HVS and E1 so he was pleased.” “Learning to lead climb outdoors was great fun” “I like having to jump up and reach for the holds before I fall off” “We treated it as a "family day" and had the Dad's up the crags as well. Jim Simpson hadn't climbed in years but has definitely picked up the bug again and I think that we may well see him on the local scene along with Sandy his son who will be old enough to join a club next year. “We've managed to get out a few times since REALrock and Caitlin's confidence is slowly improving. REALrock was a well run course that definitely got Caitlin's enthusiasm and has made her more determined to become a good climber. I enjoyed it too, even if I am still puzzling over Gary's run through self-rescue techniques – at one point there must have been at least 2 prussik loops, two Italian hitches and who knows how many figure of eights! Hopefully, you'll be doing the course again next year, and both Caitlin and her sister, who has just started climbing will come up.” “I thought it was really helpful for me to have the chance to experience outdoor climbing. I also think the techniques I learned would be really helpful when I'm older and when I do more outdoor climbs. I climb mostly indoors so I don't usually get to do outdoor climbing so I hope to do more real rock climbs in the near future.” “My son, Euan had a fantastic day climbing with his friend Fraser thanks to Ken and Martin who gave up their Sunday to initiate the boys in the pleasures of outdoor climbing. I was very impressed with their dedication and how they managed to stress the importance of safety without detracting from the sense of adventure and daring. It was a glorious day to be outdoors and Fraser's mum and I had a great walk along part of the West Highland Way. Thanks again to Ken and Martin.” “I really enjoyed the REALrock sessions. I learned a lot about how to set up a safe belay and how to place gear properly. I had great fun, even when it rained” “Many thanks to Martin and Ken. They patiently explained everything and it was an excellent introduction to climbing outdoors, and a great way to pass on a wealth of experience to a new generation”
“It was funny to see that Michael and Robin are already arguing over who's going to get to lead a pitch first, and played a "scissors, paper, stone" game to decide - we could imagine them doing the same in years to come as they rope up together at the foot of El Capitan or The Dru!”
“I really enjoyed the REALrock sessions, I learnt a lot about climbing outdoors. I hope MCofS can do other trips because I don't have my own kit and I would like to do more outdoor climbing.”
“Many thanks for the sessions. I was very impressed with the quality of instruction, and the rigorous emphasis on safety. They gave Robin's climbing a new boost - he's now pushing himself, has just led a 6a at Alien Rock, and is pressing me to visit local crags. They also renewed my enthusiasm. We now have a rope and a harness - for me!”
“Lead climbing outside was a lot harder than I thought. I had loads of fun, there was a lot to learn including placing protection and anchors. I would like to do more outside”
“Its always rewarding to help someone achieve their first ever real rock climb. The wide eyed enthusiasm that our children display towards rock climbing is for me always inspiring. Our day at pinnacle crag was perfect for climbing, yes hot and sunny and dry. Ellen MacAskill, Simon Andrews and Dylan Mackenzie were all keen as mustard to climb every thing they could, they managed with ease rock climbs of difficult and severe standard. Much fun was had by all. The session was finished with a swim in a very cold local loch, hardy kids.”
“It was easy but scary too.” |
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