The Mountaineering Council of Scotland

Issue 25 December 2004

SAFETY & TRAINING NEWS

This issue included the Navigators' High Fives article: Estimating Distance


New Kids on the Rutschblock

Inverness Nordic Ski Club members attended an Avalanche Awareness Course run by the MCofS. Club member Roddy Maclean reviews the day

Avalanches have been with us in Scotland for a very long time. An incident famous in Gaelic tradition, known as Call Ghàdhaig (The Loss of Gaick), was the destruction of a party of five at New Year 1800, during a deer-hunting expedition in Gaick in Badenoch. The unpopular Captain John MacPherson of Ballachroan, known locally as an t-Oifigeach Dubh (the Black Officer), and four companions were killed when the bothy in which they were lodged was destroyed by an avalanche following a storm.

Two hundred years later, and even in these milder winters, Scotland still experiences avalanches. As Nordic Skiers, we are keenly aware of the potential for disaster every time we go hill-touring. Although we regularly have guest speakers advising the club on avalanche issues, the club committee felt it was time to engage in a formal course run by the MCofS at Glenmore Lodge.

Organiser Roger Wild, the Council's Mountain Safety Adviser, and course tutor, Tom Rupar, Avalanche Observer at Creag Meagaidh, were extremely informative. In the morning Tom discussed the types of snow encountered and the processes involved in snow metamorphism, by which the shape and size of crystals are altered, sometimes very dramatically, once they are lying, packed together on the side of a mountain. In Scotland, it is not only the freeze-thaw cycle which induces change, but the re-depositing ability of wind to create new hazard long after falls of fresh snow.

Tom went through the signs of instability and how to assess the likelihood of snow not binding or the possible existence of a weak layer and sliding surface under the snow which could allow the upper layers to slip. We hardly left as experts but our sense of awareness of what to look out for was undoubtedly heightened. Two important principles stick in my mind: Slab avalanches are the most common hazard in Scotland; and 90% of people involved in an avalanche trigger it themselves.

We then discussed how to deal with a situation in which a member of the party had been “avalanched” and we practised using transceivers to locate a missing person. However, it is important to note that in Scotland, death is commonly caused, not by immersion and suffocation, but by trauma, such as head damage from being thrown against rocks.

In the afternoon we headed out onto the snow but, unfortunately, there was precious little left. On a slope above Coire an Lochain, we found just enough to practise a Rutschblock test. This is the isolation of a block of snow, which allows analysis of the stability of the snowpack and identification of weak layers. An important point, which was stressed, is that any shear test is only indicative of the snow at that locality and the hazard in other areas, aspects and altitudes may be very different.

The day was very informative and enjoyable and our thanks to the MCofS for the opportunity to partake of their expertise in an area where the boundaries of knowledge are still being extended every winter.

 

Avalanche Courses REMINDER

There is still time to get on this winters one-day “Avalanche Awareness” courses based in the Cairngorms. Aimed at the general winter hill goer, the courses are non-certificated and will be suitable for anyone wishing to increase their knowledge of snow and avalanches, learn which areas to avoid and improve their understanding of reports and forecasts. Basic winter skills will NOT be covered.

The course costs £35 per person and the dates are as follows:-
Saturday 8th January 2005
Sunday 9th January 2005
Saturday 15th January 2005

For more information please see the MCofS website or send a SAE to the office.

 

Winter Lectures in Scotland

Stuart Johnston and Pete Hill have once again teamed up with the Mountaineering Council of Scotland and Tiso to present the very successful, informative and entertaining winter safety lecture series. The lectures provide hands on experience with a selection of equipment, plus other elements to enhance your safety in the mountains this winter.

All the lectures start at 7.30pm
Tickets cost £3.00 and are available from Tiso shops.

Tue
11th Jan
Carnegie Library, Ayr
Tel: 01292 288 885 (Tiso, Ayr)
 
Stuart Johnston
Tues
11th Jan
Golden Lion Hotel, Stirling
Tel: 01786 464 737 (Tiso, Stirling)
 
Pete Hill
Wed
12th Jan
Tiso Glasgow Outdoor Experience
50 Couper Street, Townhead, Glasgow Tel: 0141 559 5450
Tickets also available from Tiso, Glasgow Tel: 0141 248 4877
 
Stuart Johnston
Wed
12th Jan
Aberdeen City Hotel,
Market Street, Aberdeen
Tel: 01224 634 934 (Tiso, Aberdeen)
 
Pete Hill
Thur
13th Jan
Tiso Leith Outdoor Experience
41 Commercial Street, Leith, Edinburgh
Tel: 0131 554 0804
Tickets also available from Tiso, Edinburgh Tel: 0131 225 9486
and Tiso, Ratho Tel: 0131 333 1633

 
Stuart Johnston

 

Clachaig Inn Lectures

The Clachaig Inn in Glen Coe is again hosting a series of MCofS lectures this winter. Previous speakers have included Alan Kimber (IFMGA Mountain Guide), Wes Sterritt (Chief Avalanche Observer at Creag Meagaigh) and Roger Wild (MCofS Mountain Safety Adviser) with topics ranging from winter skills and avalanche awareness to mountain navigation. The lectures start at 8pm.

Lectures are FREE (but donations to the cause of mountain safety will be gratefully accepted, and touted for on the door). Along with real ale and good pub grub, the talks are a great way to have a relaxing and informative evening.

February 2005
Tuesday 8th
Tuesday 15th
Tuesday 22nd
March 2005
Tuesday 1st
Tuesday 8th
Tuesday 15th

Please see the MCofS website for further details soon.

 

Winter Skills Training Courses REMINDER

The Glenmore Lodge Courses are again being offered to members at a discounted price. Over 100 places with a £50 discount off the normal price for all members of the MCofS. Sponsored by Sportscotland and Glenmore Lodge.

There are two levels of course running concurrently on the same dates:
Introduction to Winter Hill Skills: Cost £110
Introduction to Winter Mountaineering Skills: Cost £155

Please note the Course administration information regarding use of your own boots and crampons, winter clothing and compass that is included with the booking forms. Clubs please note that we can only take INDIVIDUAL bookings. Club secretaries should distribute the full information to their members to allow them to book themselves and to understand what will be required.

Further details in the last issue of Scottish Mountaineer (Issue 24) or on the MCofS website.

Course Dates:
Friday 7th – Sunday 9th Jan 2005
Friday 14th – Sunday 16th Jan 2005
Friday 28th – Sunday 30th Jan 2005

TO APPLY:
Applications will only be accepted on a MCofS application form or a photocopy
Applications forms were printed on page 49 of Scottish Mountaineer Issue 24 (September 2004)
They are also available to download from our website
OR contact the office for a copy. Tel: 01738 493942
The applications should then be made direct to Glenmore Lodge
All applications should be accompanied by a cheque for the full amount
Courses are available for MCofS members and affiliated members only
All courses are offered on a first come first served basis
Course Administration and conditions apply, please refer to the application form before applying

 

Protect & Survive

The MCofS is considering running a series of one-day courses based in areas of high population aimed at providing training in ropework, belaying and protection on rock climbs. The courses would be staffed by mountaineering instructors. The cost per person would be about £35.

We would like to gauge interest in the courses - if this is something you might attend please could you express your interest to Roger Wild, Mountain Safety Adviser.
Tel: 01738 493942 Email: roger@mountaineering-scotland.org.uk

 

Clubs Seminar

The MCofS is considering running a Club Seminar along similar lines to the Scottish University Safety & Good Practice Weekend Seminar

We would like to gauge interest in a seminar - if this is something you or your club would welcome please could you express your interest to Roger Wild, Mountain Safety Adviser.
Tel: 01738 493942 Email: roger@mountaineering-scotland.org.uk

 

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