The Mountaineering Council of Scotland

Issue 20 October 2003

OTHER NEWS Everest; The Top of the World Exhibition The Helly Hansen National Mountaineering Exhibition Rheged - near Penrith This ground-breaking display is the only event anywhere in the world looking at the world's highest mountain in the 50th anniversary year of its first ascent. It has a comprehensive collection of Everest gear set in context against a backdrop of stunning photography, thought provoking words, atmospheric tableaus, state of the art audio-visual effects and a specially commissioned film. While there's coverage of Hillary and Tenzing's first attempt the exhibition looks at the full history of the mountain from the time before explorers and mountaineers first visited the Himalaya and to the Imperial era of the Great Trigonometrical Survey of India and the adventures of "The Pundits" in Kipling's "Great Game". The epic expeditions of the 1920s and 30s and how Everest took on the status of the "Third Pole" are particularly poignant with items recovered from George Mallory's body in 1999, but due prominence is also given to Edward Norton's and Frank Smythe's early record setting climbs reaching within 1,000ft of the mountain's summit without oxygen. The 1953 British and Commonwealth Expedition is given proper prominence but the importance of the Everest Reconnaissance Expedition in 1951 and the significance of the pioneering attempt on the South East Ridge by the Swiss in 1952 is highlighted Everest's story didn't however, come to an end with Hillary and Tenzing's climb in 1953 and all the first ascents, of all the routes thereafter are covered including the historic Chinese ascent of the North and North East Ridge in 1960, the American Traverse of the mountain in 1963, the South West Face - Everest The Hard Way, oxygen-less attempts of Messner's and Habler's as well Venables' and Hargreave's climbs. And of course the role of the Sherpas, with pride of place given to the tent that the late Babu Chiri took to, and then "camped out" on the summit, without supplementary oxygen, for 22 hours. Opening Hours: 10am - 5.30pm (leave at least 2hrs for visit). Prices: Adult - £5.50 / Child - £3.90 / OAP - £4.70 / Group - £3.00 (10 plus)

 

Kendal Mountain Film Festival 12th - 16th NOVEMBER 2003 Just to whet your appetite for one of the most diverse, entertaining and inspirational Mountain Film Festivals in the world, here are a few snippets for what promises to be an exhilarating weekend! Wednesday 12th - an evening dedicated to White Water and Wheels Thursday 13th - Extreme Snow evening - Board and Ski films and lectures Over 50 of the world's best mountain films Gala Premiere of 'Touching the Void' feature film, introduced by Joe Simpson Celebration of Everest - day long presentation of its history and impact on mountaineering, Everest veterans young and old, and Everest Unhinged - a drama portraying the laughter side of Everest Lectures by Joe Simpson, Catherine Destivelle, Conrad Anker, Alex Huber, Jamie Andrew, John Beatty, Leo Dickinson and more! British Sea Cliff lectures with MacNaught Davies, George Smith and Niall Grimes Photographic and Art Exhibitions Extreme Film School Competition and Workshop On-line Photo competition Regular updates and tickets available (from mid August) on www.mountainfilm.co.uk or the Brewery Arts Centre on 01539 725133. Prices from £6 to £50.   21st Dundee Mountain Film Festival The Bonar Hall & Tower Building, Park Place, University of Dundee Friday 28th - Sunday 30th November 2003 Highlights include: The Wonders of Ellesmere Island by Canada's Jerry Kobalenko Mad Film Antics in 'Front Range Freaks', 'Eiger Base', 'Cannibals and Crampons' Tomaz Humar big wall climbing on El Capitan Stephen Venables presentation and film on mountain life Paul Raistrick snowboards Scottish Gullies Leo Holding bouldering with a difference at Fontainbleau Leashless Mixed Climbing in America and Canada Alex Huber in the Dolomites Barry Blanchard in the Cirque of the Unclimbables. Tickets starting at £5 are available from the website (www.dundeemountainfilm.org.uk) or from TISO shop in Dundee.   Scottish Natural Heritage Manuals by Bob Grant Access Designs Guide This provides advice to assist managers of public access to the countryside. Examples of tried and tested and modified ideas take account of the new British Standard for to better accommodate the needs of people with disabilities with some new ideas developed by practitioners. Each piece of infrastructure has an accompanying technical drawing and a simple evaluation of its pros and cons. A loose-leaf format allows for new designs to be added. Developed with support from The Paths For All Partnership, the Scottish Countryside Access Network and the Fieldfare Trust. Managing our Mountain Paths Thousands enjoy walking and climbing on Scotland's mountains this sustains many jobs in remote parts of Scotland. But their enjoyment exacts a toll on our mountains. The Upland Path Advisory Group (UPAG), recognising the erosion problems, produced a technical manual, the 'Upland Pathwork Manual' 4 years ago. It showed how paths can be re-built and vegetation restored. The manual uses drawings to show drainage, surfacing and restoration techniques. It has been designed for path builders working towards a vocational qualification in environmental conservation. The path industry then recognised there was no guidance available in how to manage path projects. Filling this pothole is a new publication called 'Upland Path Management - Standards for delivering path projects in Scotland's mountains.' Produced by UPAG, with funding provided by SNH, The NTS and the European Social Fund. Designed to be used by path contractors, voluntary groups, local authorities and land managers, the guide covers the 5 elements of path management. Starting at the planning stage, the assessment of path sites including surveying and specifying works, health and safety and details the relevant legislation, the intricacies of contracts and a final chapter offering on personal and team development.   BIVVI TALK Victorinox 'Star Letter' The winning letter published this month in Bivi Talk to receive a Victorinox "SwissChamp" Swiss Army knife (RRP £49.95) is Madison Brown. Access Legislation: Dear Sirs, I welcomed the new Scottish outdoor access legislation as a formal endorsement of a traditional Scottish right, subject to the non-invasion of privacy and non-damage to the environment. I have long detested signs such as “private”, “no public access”, “no public right of way” as these are either where only selfish attitudes explain their existence, or where they are simply unnecessary. Responsible walkers would not contemplate accessing a hill or route via someone's drive or through their garden. The great outdoors are for all to enjoy responsibly but a recent Financial Times property article displays a different attitude. The weekend edition of 7/8 June ran an article by Mark Nicholson on the 19,300 acre Inverbroom Estate in Wester Ross and the 23,000 acre Alladale Estate in central Ross-Shire. Mr. Nicholson describing their attractions says, “But for all their assets, it is what these properties do not possess that makes them particular jewels for buyers.” After mentioning the absence of tenant farmers or crofters (“flawed estates”!) the article says that Alladale has no Munro hills thus owners would “suffer little disturbance” from walkers and climbers. These are large areas of land so privacy is not the issue. The problem is selfishness and greed. What a contrast with a recent (Sat. July 5th.) Herald Weekend Living Outdoors article by Judy Armstrong, which began, “if there's one thing Scotland's famous for…it's the freedom to enjoy rivers and lochs, mountain and moorland.” I enjoy outdoor walking and I do so without invading privacy or causing damage. The new access legislation is a step towards a more civilised society. Others would clearly prefer another Highland Clearance. Fortunately most Scottish landowners accept walkers and treat them with consideration. Andrew R. Nelson.   Dear Editor Reading Scottish Mountaineer recently I was disappointed to see the same old anti-landmanager comments. On the one hand there is an expectation that landmanagers should act in the 'spirit of the code', while at the same time suggesting that they have plans afoot to use the code to enforce 'blanket access restriction through the back door'. Such mixed messages only serve to increase divisions at a time when we should be working even harder to implement sensible and fair rights. The feature also told that the new legislation does not provide for new rights for mountaineers, which while indicating a lack of legal understanding makes me wonder why MCofS campaigned in the first place? The tone that MCofS must 'ensure that other parties accept their duties and responsibilities' is rather patronising - I do not remember reading anywhere that organisations such as yours will be the “access police”. What is not recognised by the feature is that access is broadly trouble free in Scotland, due in part to the contribution of landowners and managers. Many put in facilities, clean up and maintain bothies and provide litter-collection services that they shouldn't need to. The attitudes expressed in your magazine make me feel less optimistic about the implementation of access rights. While many landowners do not believe that legislation has achieved its original objectives, we are determined to make it work for all and hoped that MCS would join us. Robert Balfour Scottish Landowners Access & Tourism Committee   Industrialization of the Hills: Dear Editor The current debate leads my mind from past to present and future. Among current threats, I cannot support wind farms or hydroelectric. The former are too unsightly and destructive for the electricity they produce, the latter I know are lower profile but alter the landscape more than they are worth. Tourism intrusions whether by bus on new roads or helicopter are unsupportable. I welcome visitors, but not on those terms. I favour governmental energy policies for reduced energy consumption, promoting fuel efficiency, and developing new energy sources. I especially favour localized “grids” of electricity generated by new fuel cells, solitary wind turbines and solar panels, tidal or geothermal sources. The single wind turbine I saw at the Alltbeithe Hostel was no more objectionable than the buildings themselves or the ancient road between Cannich and Morvich. The convenience they provided was an acceptable trade-off for the intrusiveness some might see. Peat cutting as I have seen it in Northern Ireland was either limited, hand cutting or massive commercial operations. Neither is sightly but the former far more acceptable than the latter. Crofting is far less objectionable than the near total deforestation or current conifer plantations and their clear cutting in Scotland, which looks out of character with Highland landscape. The reforestation of the exclosures I have seen in Glen Affric are artificial but with expansion may become acceptable “de-industrialization” and deserves support. In years ahead these areas will be impenetrable, man-made “wilderness” which will restrict that extraordinary right of public access. I can accept less opportunity to create my route in exchange for “restored” Highlands. If we can hold the line against wind farms, landscape-damaging tourism and hydroelectric schemes, the greatest impact on the Highlands will come from ourselves as more of us turn to the countryside for recreation. I foresee the need for “management industrialization” in the form of designated, planned tracks offering a choice within public access. To my eyes and feet the “management industrialization” in The Lake and Peak Districts is far less objectionable than duplicating, unplanned, deteriorating tracks. I enjoy the Highlands and want others, including coming generations, to enjoy them also. What the Highlands were, what they are now and will become is a complex dynamic I want to understand, respect and, where I can, take responsibility for. Madison Brown, USA   Safety and Risk Issues: Dear MCofS Mountain safety is an issue that we all address when thinking about a trip to the hills. However last year I realised that the most dangerous thing that I did was "drive a car". In theory, your car trip to the mountains could be more dangerous than climbing the hills themselves. I questioned myself on how I could make that safer? Answer; take a course on "advanced driving". Result, I now feel much more confidant that I will arrive safely at my destination. Angus Maciver, Falkirk.   Dear Editor Concerning Bob Sharp's well-researched article on Walking Poles in SM15. I have used poles for years and I have no doubt at all that their stabilising and shock absorbing properties will prolong my mountaineering days, but I remain skeptical as to the practice of deploying the ice axe whilst retaining the pole for the other hand. I have tried and failed to make this an effective technique! Should a slide occur, the problem with carrying both an axe, and a ski pole in the downhill hand (without the use of the wrist loop - as Bob Sharp rightly says) will cause a distraction at the least, get lost or affect the progress of someone else. Indeed, if I know human nature, individuals will inadvertently risk their lives to save a falling piece of kit! Also, as the angle of the ground increases, greater care is needed during a change in direction when swapping the axe from one hand to the other. The ski pole here is a hindrance, yet many folk chose to battle on swapping gear from hand to hand in the most inappropriate places. So my personal recommendation is to take out the axe at the appropriate time to provide the necessary protection and to stow the poles away as their presence now provides no additional security. And finally, for those that cannot pat their head and rub their tummy at the same time, just concentrating on using the axe correctly should be sufficiently absorbing and enjoyable. Will Manners, Crieff   Dear Editor I work professionally within the outdoor industry and did not think that the articles in the June 'Talking Point' touched on the real issues surrounding risk and group leadership. In particular they did not explain the value of risk assessment as an important learning process and building block for personality development. Your risk threshold is a key component of your daily life and it has a remarkable effect on your personality. Good leaders, guides and instructors will also take this into account to provide a unique and rewarding experience. They will build on individual personalities and assess the appropriate level of risk to ensure they provide enjoyment and satisfaction. The opposite is a group made up of the bored at one end of the scale and the scared at the other. Achieve the correct balance and you are developing one of the most important, healthy and fundamental aspects of personality. Decision and policy makers should be quick to realise this. Tim Pettifer (BASI, SNSC Mountain Ski Leader Coach)

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