The Mountaineering Council of Scotland

Issue 20 October 2003

SPORTS DEVELOPMENT NEWS

Kids Outdoors - Making a Start

By Jan Wilmington

Not overly trustful of our weather I made contingency plans and prepared for three different walks and activities for the MCofS Annual Gathering 'Introduction to hill walking and the environment' kids walk. Plan 'A' walk was for fair (ish) weather, plan 'B' for poorer weather, and plan 'C' for coming down in stair rods and blowing a hoolie weather. As always the case with plan 'C's, it was the one which took much more lateral thinking and I wanted to leave nothing to chance so drove north on the Wednesday, in hope and glorious sunshine. Huh…the wind started on Wednesday evening, the hills couldn't be seen for cloud and by Thursday morning it was pouring. Stair-rod pouring. Friday dawned drier and with a hint of sunshine peeking through the cloud and a light breeze to keep the midges away, I walked the walks with plenty food for thought.

Saturday dawned dry so plan 'A' it was to be. The morning activity for the kids was a session on navigation and map work run by Ian Broadley. Having chatted over light refreshment or two the previous evening, we agreed to combine forces and work together for the day. Although there were fewer young folk than anticipated…or feared…those who did attend made up in enthusiasm what was lacked in numbers. The morning session went very well with everyone entering into the spirit of the day on the low forest slopes of Meal a Bhuachaille where we set out a simple short compass course for the group, (which included one Mum) to practice taking and walking on a bearing and pacing. The morning session was concluded with a few fun, energising, and problem solving games before we set off.

The walk started at the edge of Glenmore forest, out onto the open hillside, through the Chalamain Gap, down into the Lairig Ghru and back along the side of the Alt Druidh into Rothiemurchas forest and finishing at Rothiemurchas Lodge. Chosen because the spectacular and ever changing landscape clearly demonstrates many environmental issues as well as having clearly identifiable features for those starting to interpret a map. I thought it also a fine walk for young short legs. As we set off the wind dropped, allowing black clouds of ferocious Cairngorm beasties to attempt a good feast at our expense. However as we walked briskly through the forest (to create a breeze!) and down to the burn, nature took over and a light breeze ensured time to stop, look, absorb and discuss the changing environment. This was also a good opportunity to practice and consolidate what we had been doing in the morning.

There were only two actual children accompanying the three adults on the walk (the other children opting for indoor climbing), Andrew and Robert McFarlane, bright lively eight-year-old twins with loads of energy and superbly enquiring minds. When the twins weren't walking, talking, laughing or eating they were still and watchful, absorbing their surroundings.

Scrambling over the boulders in the Gap was a huge adventure, and all sorts of strange monsters were noticed in the magnificent rock architecture. Going down into the Lairig Ghru a warm breeze and gentle smir of rain kept the midges away as we talked all the way down to the burn. After (even) more Jaffa cakes and fresh water from the burn, weary feet had perked up enough to make good time into the forest and agile minds again found much to see and discuss en-route to Rothieuurchas Lodge where our chariot back to Glenmore was expected. Not even the black clouds of midges managed to dampen the spirits of any of the 'kids' on this walk.

I personally hope this sort of youth development work will become an established MCofS activity as I believe our wild country environment is an ideal place to find that 'something else' in life that we all need. Our mountain areas are precious and fragile and for them to be sustainable as places for recreation, we ourselves must protect them and by example guide others to an understanding of their importance and relevance to our lives now and in the future.

Some comments from Andrew and Robert:
“Brilliant” … “best day of my life” … “really exciting” … “the forest is beautiful” … “this is special” … “wow” … “any more jaffa cakes?” … “look at the shapes in the rock” … “my feet hurt” … “any more jaffa cakes?” … “when can we do this again?”

 

On the Way to be the World's Best Boulderer

by Malcolm Smith

Famous for suggesting broccoli was the secret to his awesome strength, Malcolm Smith's power has been marvelled at here in the UK for years and it obvious that he would perform well against the best in the world. Here he describes his recent performance.

Two years ago I finished work in Industrial Rope Access to become a professional climber. It hasn't been easy making a living from the sport but my acceptance last year for a Talented Athlete Award from sportscotland Lottery has made things a little easier financially. Without the award I would have had to work and I don't believe I could have put in enough training to finish 2nd in the bouldering world cup in 2002.

Since I was 15 I've dedicated my life to climbing, to the exclusion of almost everything else. My dedication has paid off in that I've done well in the sport but I've had to sacrifice a lot in terms of material possessions. It's been worth it though, and I wouldn't change a thing.

My focus has always been on improving my ability, both indoors and out. I believe that to be considered a world-class climber nowadays one has to do well in both disciplines. To me a good boulderer is a good climber and one who can apply their ability to routes if they wish. I have never been a "ticker”; I prefer to beaver away working on my ability then appear and do something good. My enjoyment comes from pushing myself to get better; personally I get little out of doing more and more of what I can already do.

Over the last year I've concentrated on competitions. I've had to develop my onsight ability and work on my 'head' and improving these has fed back into my climbing on rock. I'm far better all round than when I started doing competitions.

I'm still pottering away outdoors. I've been to some interesting places like Mescia in Italy and my old favourites Cresciano and Fontainebleau. I spent much of April's good weather this year at Bowden Doors in Northumberland, cleaning up a few of my projects. It's always rewarding doing new things on the rock but there's nothing more satisfying than winning a competition!

Who knows what this year will hold for me. I've done a lot more work on my route reading and building on my technique and style since the last World Competitions and I've maintained my strength, so fingers crossed, my hope is that I can make it to the first place podium position in the world cup - a first for Scottish climbing too.

 

A competitor's view of the UK's First
Mountain Equipment Dry Tool Competition

by Kevin Kelly

Ten o'clock on Friday night, I was on the phone to Gordon Lennox finalising arrangements for the next days comp'. Big Gordon had only got back into the country at five o'clock that night and was playing catch-up. One of my brothers, Mark, was to be the third in our team.

It didn't seem right struggling to park the car in Glasgow early in the morning on a winter's weekend. Every second person had a can of Red Bull in their hand and the pounding dance music that is Scott Muir's signature tune was the score that seemed to reflect rather than dictate everyone's frame of mind. The whole room seemed nervous, lots of welcoming smiles and nods of acknowledgement from fellow competitors. No one really knew what to expect. Scott was buzzing about doing the usual organisational plate spinning, Tim Emmet was making final adjustments to routes. We got the usual run down of rules and regs', some tips and advice that the organisers had discovered for themselves and then we were off. Routes were well marked and incredibly varied. Every handhold is the same size, but you'd be amazed at the sheer invention possible. Some problems were sheer thuggery. Laid-back top-rope problems that we thought were money in the bag would turn out to be so delicate that you dare not look at your tools in case they popped. The roof problem had us 'figure4ing' until we thought our wrists would burst, and the delicate traverse saw us filing our tools to razor sharpness just to stick the moves.

The atmosphere was good and got better as the day progressed. People would stop as they passed if they saw someone on a crux section; slowly the room filled with spectators. Cheers and shouts would go up, the best reserved for the moments when someone would come completely unstuck. Points and lactic acid started to accumulate. The general comp finished with a quick scurry of last minute route bagging. We finished on the three mad hanging poles with Scott's advice of "don't hit it too hard, you'll never get your tools out" ringing in our ears.

The nerves were gone, you could smell the sweat in the Blue Room and there were a lot of tired smiles and bulging forearms. Our team came 1st but such was the fatigue, that the option to join the professional teams comp' was greeted as a booby prize.

There were some very impressive names kicking about and the wall was busy now as we started to try some of the harder problems. Lennox flashed one of the big lines and the Alien Rock boys got the cheers for their impressive gymnastic falls.

We headed for one short problem that Tim Emmett had been particularly pleased in devising on the 45-degree wall. One mad lay back, big boots 'smearing' on nothing, an upside down axe, hang off the horizontal shaft; lock off, and cut loose, left leg over the shaft and a mad figure4. Then stretch for the next small hold. Another lock, another figure4, then the top. We relied on Big Gordon again to take our only points. We had nothing left to give. Totally trashed arms and more Red Bull left me with a bad case of the shakes. Who cares, everyone was grinning and shouting encouragement to the Pro's as they played out the last dramas high on the main wall.

A great comp, a great day. How far it will go next time? Loud music, dance tent atmosphere and amazing problems. "Before I accept the award, I'd like to crank...."

The sponsors were:
Scarpa, Grivel, Bendecrete, OTE, High, Red Bull, Greenshires

 

The 2nd Mountain Equipment
Indoor Dry Tooling Competition 2003

Saturday 22nd November 2003 at Glasgow Climbing Centre
Sponsored by: Red Bull - Scarpa - Grivel - Bendcrete - OTE - HIGH - Greenshires

Bigger than the first. Great Prizes for both the sponsored and general public categories are available again and more mad energy sapping problems. Teams of three competitors will try to complete 15 problems of rising difficulty in 4 hrs, with the pro' teams then having 3 more problems to complete in 2 hours in the afternoon spectacular. Spectators are welcome! There are only 11 general public places available and 4 pro' team spaces so get cracking.

Entry forms will be available from www.scottmuir.com

 

EXECUTIVE NEWS

Walking Wild Quiz

by Irvine Butterfield

The “Walking Wild” series of articles draws to a close this issue in whisky country, and what better way to reward readers than a chance to win a bottle of the cratur! To those who participate in this closing quiz, there is the chance to win a bottle of Arran Malt from the distillery in Lochranza. The ten questions below are taken from all the articles, which started in Issue 11. If you have discarded your back copies of the magazine, remember, all the articles are to be found on the MCofS website. Send your answers, not forgetting your name and address, marked “Walking Wild Quiz” to me via the MCofS office. To allow delivery to the winner in time for Hogmany, a closing date is set for November 30th. In the event of a tie, correct entries names will be drawn from a hat by MCofS staff.

Good luck, and Slante

Q1: What was the first place visited in the series?
Q2: On what hill is the Shank of Flobbit?
Q3: Where did the 'Road to Nowhere' end?
Q4: What was the farthest south point reached in my travels?
Q5: Who kindly did the cartographics for the series?
Q6: Where in Helmsdale did I find a convenient lodging?
Q7: Which Tourist Board area was “working together for walkers”?
Q8: Where was 256 tons of kelp produced?
Q9: A Gatcliff Trust Hostel is depicted, but which one?
Q10: Monadh an Fharaidh is their Gaelic name - what are they more popularly know as?

 

MCofS 2003
Mountain Article Competition Winners

by Kevin Howett

The Judges this year were current MCofS Vice President and Teacher Beryl Leatherland, Ex-MCofS President, John Donohoe, Ex-MCofS Vice President and English Teacher, Ingrid Parker, Writer Irvine Butterfield and myself, National Officer.

The entries in the 'Prose' category were diverse in content, although there seemed to be a paranormal theme this year for some reason. There were descriptions of walking in the Pyrenees and in Tasmania, climbing big hills in New Zealand and climbing in Scotland.

There were several entries which the judges felt were close contenders; last years winner, Hughie Wilson, writing of an ascent of “Sou'wester Slabs” on Arran is an excellent story in which the use of Scots slang helps adds to the humour, whilst “Lochnagar” by Caroline Harper is a well constructed observation of three generations of hillgoer's views and activities and came close to winning. Ian McCabe's tale of climbing the route 'Hammer' on the Etive Slabs centred on his reminiscing from “A Nice Hot Bath” which the judges felt created a good sense of apprehension. However, the winner of the first prize this year is Cathy Witfield with “The Big Grey Man”, telling the story of a walk up and quickly back down Ben MacDui. The second prize is shared between Graham E Little's story of a harrowing fall whilst soloing in winter in “Cutting Goretex” and Tim Mason's “Hourquet de Heas”, the story of a group of walkers being saved from a Pyrenean mountain storm.

Entries to the poetry category were very diverse. Joe McLaughlin's succinct entry “The Hill” would put McGonigal to shame, whilst Ian McCabe's use of climbing grades as simile for important periods of one's life brought a chuckle or two and Robert Barker's “Ascent of the Dome do Chasseforet” was a highly regarded tale of an Alpine ascent; all of which were in the running. In the end two very different entries shared first position; Laura Alexander's “Bob” strikes a cord as a perceptive study of a mountaineers personality, whilst S Miller's “Glory” encapsulates the beauty of a mountain day.

The Judges would like to pass on their congratulations to the winners, whose entries we will feature in forthcoming issues of Scottish Mountaineer. Commiserations to those who did not win but the judges would like to thank every participant as their stories and poems were all a delight to read. We look forward to next year's competition - deadline May 1st 2004!

The article competition

 

World Cup comes to Scotland

As you read this, The Adventure Centre, Ratho, home to the MCofS's National Rock Climbing Centre for Scotland will have opened its doors.

The building will be opened in phases, starting with the climbing arena. Following this, all the support facilities will come on-stream including the Adventure Sports Gym and Health Club.

The first major event hosted by NRCC will be the climbing World Cup 2003 between 4-7th December. The Adventure Centre, supported by the MCofS to host top class climbing competitions, is going to play host to 230 of the world's top competition climbers at this, the final event in the 2002/3 World Cup.

Although designed to host such international quality events, Ratho did not expect to be able to offer such a prestigious event so early in its operational life. For those of us who have endured the joys of the M6 to Birmingham to view top quality climbing action this is a very welcome happening. So forget your once a year opportunity for a brumy balti, dig out your long lost Edinburgh mates and reserve some floor space for the biggest thing ever to happen to the Scottish wall scene. Tickets and booking information can be gained by emailing tickets@adventurescotland.com, mark the emails World Cup 2003.

As well as hosting international standard competitions, we are from time to time going to be hosting a number of concerts, happenings and events. Kicking these off on the evenings of Friday 28th and Sunday 30th of November the Climbing arena is being turned into a massive themed 1500 seat cinema. Stella Artois are hosting a special screening of 'Raiders of the Lost Ark' on a 12x12m screen.

Keep up to date with what is happening at the Adventure Centre, Ratho at www.adventurescotland.com

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