The Mountaineering Council of Scotland

Issue 20 October 2003

FEATURES A solitary tale One Man's Journey along the Skye to Crieff Cattle Drovers Route By Malcolm Handoll The last time I did anything this stupid in public - I fell out of an aeroplane for charity. It all started with a phone call to Trail Magazine looking for publicity for the Crieff Tryst. In some daft attempt to grab the journalists attention I ended up promising “ever more” - which left me needing high-quality photographs of myself and various idiots in costumes with live(ly) Highland Cows (with horns!) within three days. A sinch. Oh, and I'd also stated I was walking from Skye to Crieff along the old Drovers routes, averaging 22-25 miles per day (so what, they said?), bivvying out under the stars “like the old Drovers” (well?) …. and …. and living on a Drovers diet of porridge oats for a week (interest at last!!) .. no chocolate (I had a story!!!) So that was the plan - walk for a week along vague routes, sleeping out and eating rabbit food. After 6 months of not leaving my computer and a bum moulded to the shape of my swivel chair, and a distinct feeling of public pressure - a fixed arrival date that wouldn't allow for delays of the “I had a blister/got lost/bored/broke my neck” sort. Damn, I had to do this, without a stove, no money for “snacks” en-route or the bus and no idea if my tendons would play ball. Oh, and the photographs. Poo! Lots of cow poo, actually, as we stood in a field with Highland Cows looking cute (them) and nervous (them) and stupid (us) in our kilts, gortex, and costumes down the ages. No Wellington boots. Cows don't like being told what to do by a photographer so we had to casually “walk” into a herd of cows (with sharp horns) and stand as they inevitably bolted between us. Yeh, walking would be a sinch - and it WAS. It was fantastic -the best long distance walk I'd ever done as it turned out. This walk deserves to be a classic. Do it - but read on first. Terry from Dun Caan Hostel (Kyleakin) dropped us off at the KyleRea Ferry and 'G' and I sailed the rapids that once drowned panicked coos, over the pinched gap that keeps Skye an isle, to Glenelg. Omens made me nervous, and 'G' felt it, felt the straps dig into soft shoulders. Conversation was sparse as we gauged steps, counting the metres and calculated the distance each day would necessitate. The mountains ahead showed no way through to 'G' - who'd joined this 1st leg with me, knowing nothing of Scottish mountains, Drovers or me!!! (We'd only once spoken on the phone - after she'd read the Trail Magazine article). The Brochs in Glenelg took our minds off the mundane walking and navigation and from then on I was in a world of past lives. I was connected to the endless movement of humans and livestock across these mountains: seeping with memories, revealing hidden valleys and paths unlocking a natural route. My heart had reason to beat - it was magical! To follow such a natural route, leaving man-made paths in favour of the obvious gentle gradient, the lush pasture remnants, where cattle were grazed at night, fattened on their way to market by these skilled herders - the farmer's 'long-distance lorry drivers' and security (they kept their guns) too. It all made such sense, and within the first hours of this walk, I am leaping around the tussocks of grass, a child transformed into a Drover, the journey inside my imagination. From that first day on I was a drover and it felt great - to not just do a walk, but to understand why and to feel part of this history. Telford planned to use this route for the main road but I'm so glad he didn't - it's far too beautiful for that. Let the cars sweep down Glen -----, and leave this journey back in time, when the crags echoed the mooing of cows, the thwack of sticks and the bark of excited cow-dogs with occasional manly shouts. Now I had the rutting deer and felt satisfied. Each day was marked by the passing of the “high-point”, the psychological barrier of that day, which once crossed left a sunset amble metaphorically downhill to some soft patch of grass. Of course G didn't quite see it that way. I cajoled us on in an anxious bid for a raised knoll where a breeze would ensure midges stayed grounded. A week earlier it would have been very different and a tent would be wise - but Drovers didn't worry. Mind you, they had whisky, and midges prefer cattle blood, so I'm told. I'm no 'wuss', but seven nights sleep deprivation worried me. So we slept on high ground and it was perfect. Every place I wanted to rest, I found the grass richer and the water clean, sheltered but well drained, dry and midge free - I also found the remains of an old shieling or enclosure. Someone had been here before, many times - and I sincerely hope many stay there again. This walk is always following the natural route, the way you'd go before maps existed, just follow your nose, head in a general direction, think like a drover, and walk on. 'G' left after day two, reluctantly to return to civilisation's commitments - it grabs you so quickly this walk, carries you into a land of dreams, feeds your imagination, and gives reason for each step, like no other - except maybe the pilgrims walks. And my body tuned in too. Eating complex carbohydrates proved a real success, and my pace adapted to the day's rhythms, yet the slower energy release gave me such stamina, I continue to eat oats, out of choice. A note on my diet; one of the rules - was no cheating - but hospitality would be welcomed in much the same way as Drovers would have stopped at farmsteads on route, maybe collecting cattle, or just saying “hello”. Obviously, route choices were influenced by familiar stopping places, good pasture, avoiding worn or recently grazed routes and steering clear of trouble or less hospitable folk en-route - and this lends to the argument for a Drovers Route being flexible not a path. The cattle hated the sharp stones of hard core and I am in awe of those who wrestled the beasts to the ground to shoe them for road sections. I ate raw porridge oats, and much as I love black pudding (the modern equivalent of the bloodletting Drovers supplemented their meagre diet with) I had no fuel to boil even water. I tried soaking the oats over night in cold water - and this was a real culinary masterpiece, different and bland as cold wall paper paste. I ate like a child, forced by hunger, not by pleasure - and for that experience I am forever grateful. Wise to the nutritional demands of a weeks walking, and to replace the salt, protein and minerals otherwise hidden in cows blood, I enhanced my oats with the vegan equivalent of seeds, nuts and dried fruit (sugar-free muesli). This seemed sensible, true to my PR goal, and made munching on route palatable. Every stream crossed I drank from, so not to carry the weight of water, and I left my watch at the first one, day one!! I was putting it away in my rucksack for the week but its absolute loss made me even more in tune with the Drovers - time from then on followed the day's weather and setting sun. (If anyone finds a charcoal grey Marmot fleece - it's mine! Fell off whilst slipping through peat hags in the failing light and on wobbly, end-of-day legs). Not knowing anyone on route, the hospitality option was severely limited. I therefore treated myself to one night under cover in a bothy (South Spean Bridge) - and a tiny fire, enough to heat hot water - real porridge, and some cheese, bread and tinned fish. It was also a day for cleaning seeping wounds, burst blisters (I never felt a thing) and realising the walk was quite a long way without any preparation. It began to look serious that day and I began to temper my enthusiasm, knowing the media awaited my return. How could I do that? What if my tendons swelled? - They did. By Loch Rannoch I couldn't get my boot off it was so swollen, and trench foot has a peculiar smell, suitable only for solo walks and open air bivvying. My concerns about conflicting access and landowners shooting deer didn't materialise - in fact it prompted me to a route that is far more enjoyable and diverse than had I stuck to the “shortest line between two places”. Of course I contacted gamekeepers before setting off, and ensured they were happy with the plan (they were) and after Loch Ossian Hostel (tea stop) my route “detoured” via Loch Rannoch - and I'm so glad I did! This kept the scenery changing constantly; never getting dull like a drudge up the West Highland Way. This walk is characterised by its ever changing countryside - from Kintail and Knoydart's wild beauty, to idyllic broadleaf woods beside still lochs, long tracks ideal for mountain-bikes, meandering streams, woods and rich farmland - and best of all, the whole way uses existing 'natural routes'. That's one of the joys - to walk in the footsteps of our ancestors - our inheritance. This walk is a journey, at the end of which you are in tune with nature, humanity and the seasons. Sleeping out allows the ultimate luxury of simply sleeping any where you like - beside the path, a kind bed of moss, a turfed lochside, a roofless hovel, they are yours for the night! literally! It is a route that is in essence many various routes, there is no right or wrong as such. My only sadness is that the many old buildings along the way are not restored to a basic bothy - that would be my long term dream - for they are in the best possible spots - chosen by our wise ancestors - the sheltered, watered land - complete with sunrise and stunning view! Had Telford's road gone through these would be luxury holiday homes now. For a night at least, they were mine, complete with stars and air conditioning. My only other suggestion to walkers of this route is not to have set days - but instead let the journey unfold, as if you are herding cattle and sheep, let the weather and the mood guide you, choose to explore and let your imagination run wild. I got ahead of myself, had to wait half a day for the media to arrive at our rendevouz, and like a true drover managed to wile away some hours in the coach house bar, with rowdy farmers and crazy musicians. It felt “as they would have done”. I swear by the end of it I just wanted to keep on going - or turn round and go back. Whichever direction you choose, this walk is a classic.

This issue included the Climb Through History report: Hellfire Corner by Ian Hall This issue also included the final article of our WalkingWild series: Of hills and stills - Walking Wild in Strath Don and Glenlivet by Irvine Butterfield   GUEST ARTICLE ACT By Graham Lynch No-one who reads The Scottish Mountaineer will have escaped noticing that Scotland now has new access legislation in the form of the Land Reform (Scotland) Act. As is the way with these things this is not the end of the story - the Scottish Outdoor Access Code will be an important part of this, providing guidance to both visitors and managers of the countryside. Scottish Natural Heritage (SNH) has recently consulted on what form this should take, and naturally both the MCofS and the BMC had their say. What you may not know is that the Access & Conservation Trust (ACT) helped this through funding research by Fran Pothecary (past MCofS Mountain Safety Advisor!) into the likely implications of the draft code. So what is this Access & Conservation Trust? Put simply, it is a charity set up jointly by the BMC, MCofS and Mountaineering Council of Ireland (MCofI) to raise funds for access and conservation projects across Scotland, England, Wales and Ireland. The charitable status means that companies and individuals can donate money in a tax efficient way, and the geographical spread makes ACT a spearhead in cooperation between the three mountaineering councils. The kinds of project ACT aims to achieve are: Support rural access and conservation projects that protect access and promote sustainable use Educate and raise awareness of conservation issues Inform people about areas of ecological sensitivity Research the benefits and impacts of mountain recreation and tourism Train and support access and conservation volunteers Since the inception of the Trust late in 2001, tens of thousands of pounds have been raised from individual BMC members and corporate supporters alike. The Roll of Honour lists the major donors, who have since been joined by the Association of British Climbing Walls, Cleveland Mountaineering Club and Lowe Alpine. Thank you to everyone who has contributed, and to Andrew Gilmore for the photograph used in the Roll of Honour. Well, what have we done with this money? A range of projects spanning practical work, education and research. In Scotland ACT has supported the Upland Path Advisory Group (UPAG) conference at Pitlochry in 2002, which brought together those involved in funding and carrying out path work in our mountains. ACT also funded a re-print of the UIAA Summit Charter and the printing of Access Focus and Seasonal Restrictions leaflets for 2002, 2003 which now cover Scotland. Further afield there have been projects to repair a footpath at Trewavas in Cornwall, control ground erosion at Stone Farm, a sandstone crag in south east England, and place a belay boulder above Porth-y-Ffynnon - a popular group use crag in Pembroke. Two exciting rural development projects, in North Wales and the Lake District, are breaking new ground in looking at how climbers and walkers can put more back into the local economies in the places we visit. Each of the three mountaineering councils has a Trustee involved in running ACT. Newly crowned MCofS President John Mackenzie has held this role for Scotland for the last year. In his own words - “I feel that ACT offers a pathway to developments that hitherto would not have been possible for the individual councils. Now, we can pull together and provide something of long-term value to the environment - whether in Scotland, Ireland, Wales or England.” Graham Lynch is an Access and Conservation Officer with the BMC. As part of this he carries out the administration for the Access & Conservation Trust. A keen climber embracing everything from bouldering to alpinism, Graham is a member of the clan MacPherson - 'Na bean don chat gun lamhainn' ('Touch not the cat but a glove'). Contact details : ACT, 177-179 Burton Road, Manchester, M20 2BB. Tel: 0870 010 4878. Fax: 0161 445 4500. E-mail: info@accesstrust.org.uk or visit the web-site at www.accesstrust.org.uk

SAFETY & TRAINING NEWS WINTER SKILLS TRAINING COURSES The Glenmore Lodge Winter Skills Courses are again being offered to members at a discounted price. Over 100 course places with a £50 discount off the normal price for all members of the MCofS. Sponsored by Sportscotland and Glenmore Lodge. Course Dates Friday 2nd - Sunday 4th Jan 2004 Friday 9th - Sunday 11th Jan 2004 Friday 16th - Sunday 18th Jan 2004 The courses are two days long, the dates show the evening of arrival (after 1800hrs), departure is tea time on the last date shown. There are two levels of course, they will run concurrently on the same dates. Introduction to Winter Hill Skills: Cost £110 Covers basic skills of navigation, winter safety, avalanche avoidance, walking with axe and crampons, ice axe self arrest, and much more (conditions permitting); it will not involve any use of ropes. The staffing ratio is 1:6 Introduction to Winter Mountaineering Skills: Cost £155 Training in winter skills at a more advanced level involving basic rope work and looking at winter belays (conditions permitting). You should already have some basic winter walking skills; experience of rope handling is useful but not essential. It is not a winter climbing course but is aimed at developing the skills of winter walkers looking to take on some of the classic lower grade mountaineering routes and ridges in winter. The staffing ratio is 1:4. We cannot guarantee sufficient snow to cover all aspects that we would like to but we will offer relevant training and you are guaranteed some individual tuition. COURSE ADMINISTRATION Cost includes 2 nights accommodation on a twin room sharing basis, all meals from breakfast on the first full day of the course to tea and cake at 1700 on the last (second) day of the course, instruction, hire of equipment and transport during the course to the hill and back. There is no evening meal provided on the first evening, bar meals are available from the Glenmore Lodge bar from 1700 to 2100hours. The course however will start with an evening brief at 2000hrs on the start date listed followed by equipment issue and crampon fitting. Ideally you should therefore aim to be at the Lodge and fed by 2000hours. The courses are only open to those 18 years of age and older. Equipment - An important note about boots. As you will not be following paths and may be on steep and hard snow to provide some realism to the training, it is essential to be properly shod. If you have your own good quality rigid soled 3 - 4 season boots and a well-fitting pair of crampons which definitely will not come off, you will be able to use them. Otherwise, you will be supplied with plastic rigid soled winter boots and crampons. Secure footwork is the cornerstone of safe winter travel and it is one of the skills that will be covered on the course. Rigid boots with soles in good condition are essential for secure footwork. This is a major safety issue. You will need to bring an OS 1:50,000 map sheet 36 of the Cairngorms. (A 1:25,000 is not appropriate for navigating in this area under winter conditions), a map case or waterproof map, a compass of the Silva type 4 or similar quality, a head torch and batteries and lastly, several pairs of winter mitts and waterproof outer mittens. You should have your own basic warm winter clothing fleeces etc. We can supply waterproofs, ice axe, boots, crampons and any other technical equipment. Bookings and Conditions These courses are only advertised in this magazine and are only available to MCofS members. Please complete the application form and return it to Glenmore Lodge with the full payment. Any cancellation before six weeks of the start date of the course will result in the loss of a £35.00 administration charge, the remaining course fee being returned. This fee will also be charged should you decide to change your booking to a different person, date or course level. Cancellation within six weeks of the course will result in the loss of the full course fee unless the place can be sold to another MCofS member, in which case the fee less the £35 administration charge will be refunded. If the Course is cancelled for any reason Glenmore Lodge will refund the course fee in full. Applications will only be accepted on the attached application form (or photocopy) with a membership number or club details. Applications must be sent to Glenmore Lodge not the MCofS. Cheques made payable to “Glenmore Lodge” please. Should you wish to stay overnight at the end of your course this can be arranged subject to availability on a B&B basis, there is no evening meal on the last day of your course but bar meals will again be available in the Lodge bar. Please tick the box on the application form and add £18 to the course fee. If we are unable to fit you in due to our other course bookings we will refund you this charge. Insurance for cancellation, curtailment and personal accident is available from Glenmore Lodge at a cost of £10. If you would like that please indicate on the application form by ticking the box and adding £10 onto your cheque. Affiliated club members and group bookings. Clubs are advised that we can only accept individual bookings with payment. Group bookings have caused problems in the past and we can no longer deal with these issues. Club secretaries should ensure that all the information on this page is passed to their members and not simply the booking form. Application Form not reproduced here. Avalanche education programme 2004 This coming winter, the MCofS will be running a series of one-day “Avalanche Awareness” courses based in the Cairngorms. Aimed at the general winter hill goer, the courses are non-certificated and will be suitable for anyone wishing to increase their knowledge of snow and avalanches, learn which areas to avoid and improve their understanding of reports and forecasts. Each course will consist of an indoor introduction to avalanche theory followed by a practical session on the hill. The courses will be delivered by qualified and experienced personnel at a ratio of 1 tutor to 4 participants. Basic winter skills will NOT be covered. The course costs £30 per person and the dates are as follows:- Saturday 3rd January 2004 Saturday 10th January 2004 Saturday 17th February 2004 For more information see the website or send an SAE to the office.   Scottish University Mountaineering, Climbing and Hill Walking Clubs MCofS Safety & Good Practice Seminar 22nd & 23rd November 2003 - Glenmore Lodge, Aviemore Make sure your University attends this important weekend Find out how you can do the following: Cover your Duty of Care Choice, care and maintenance of pooled equipment Basic First Aid and Emergency Care Incident Management Safety on Scotland's Winter Mountains Minimising risk and doing practical risk assessments Qualifications and Experience Practical sessions will include: Hillwalking Moving on Steep Ground Rock Climbing For further details contact the MCofS Mountain Safety Adviser, Roger Wild.   First Aid For Hill Walkers and Climbers Dates: 8th & 9th November 2003 Venue: Mill Cottage, Glen Feshie Landranger Map Sheet 35 Kingussie GR: 846048 (For Members Only) Run by Alan Crichton (qualified first aid instructor and director of “First Aid Matters”) The cost is £75 per person (includes two nights self-catering accommodation at Mill Cottage) It does not include your food. You need a sleeping bag. The course starts at 9am on Saturday and finishes at 5pm on Sunday. To book your place, complete the form below and send it to the MCofS Office your fee (cheques payable to 'MCofS'). Further copies can be obtained from the MCofS Office. (Booking form not reproduced here.)

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