Issue 19 August 2003
OTHER NEWSScottish Winter Climbing Performance Seminar Series
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BIVI TALKYour Letters
Star Letter Difference between Men & Women:
Dear Sir It is not sufficient to look at accident statistics. One could just as easily conclude from these, that women are more careful climbers or that men are just more gung-ho! As for magazine cover photographs, these could be interpreted as the individual preference of the editors. Finally, I certainly hope that the notion that gear manufacturers align their products as suggested is ignored. It is only fairly recently that women climbers have had any choice at all in climbing gear. To go back to the dark ages would be a retrograde step indeed. Margery Johnston
Dear MCofS In spite of the conclusions Sharp and Saunders come to, we don't need statistics to know there are more women climbing nowadays. Yet there are still more male climbers than female. More interesting and relevant research would compare the present ratio to those of twenty and fifty years ago. Is the proportion of women increasing and, if so, is it because of their freedom from traditional roles, a recently acquired assertiveness or something else? To suggest courses are tailored because of the statistics they cite is missing the point - it's tantamount to dressing girls in pink and boys in blue. Surely the opposite should be encouraged - more women-only climbing courses to help them appreciate their own abilities instead of comparing them to men's. It might be that women are put off by the male attitudes they encounter. Too often, women start climbing with their partners, which isn't usually the best idea. I should make it clear that all the men I've climbed with are great. But some of the ones I've had the misfortune to be near on routes stun me with their egoism. Perhaps women and men are generally born with different skills and abilities. But they can train or be trained in ones they don't have naturally, if the motivation is there. I can only assume that the woman who helped write the article isn't a climber. Anyone who is will know the frustration of having to wear men's gear and having their ways of climbing misunderstood. Climbing is fun, spiritual and healthy. Who cares if men or women want to on-sight solo E4s. Or climb E10. Or argue about winter conditions. Some do and fair enough, it's necessary for the development of the sport. But the majority don't. We just want to enjoy ourselves. And, let's face it, both genders can learn from each other as well as enjoy each other's company. Let's keep encouraging each other and having fun in the meantime. Diana Preston
Early Attempt at Centurion:
Dear Editor In July 1956 at the age of 17 while still at school, myself and Lennox Garman from the Lomond Mountaineering Club made an attempt on the line, inspired by an article in the Cambridge University MC journal. We were both competent but had not climbed on the Ben. We tackled Route II in brilliant sunny weather; but due to faulty route finding we climbed too high on the edge of the buttress, forcing a descent diagonally over the slabs underneath the big overhangs. We could see down into the big diedre of Centurion. It looked very feasible to us. We returned to the buttress the next morning but in the now drizzly gloom the big corner looked pretty dank and uninviting; nevertheless, we decided to “just have a look”. Pulling up on to the stance at the top of the first pitch, I dislodged the biggest loose flake on Carn Dearg which took me back to the start in about two seconds flat. Fortunately the flake did not land on top of me. Unfortunately I did crack some bones and that was the end of our attempt. There were no rescue teams and salvation had to come from your own party. Two of the boys rushed down to the CIC to collect the stretcher etc and I well remember the arguments about who was going to administer the morphine while I lay there moaning in agony and shocked disbelief! Luckily for me it turned out that the Creag Dubh were ensconced there on their summer holidays and I can claim the distinction of being carried off the hill by the illustrious Pat Walsh, Mick Noon, “Sunshine” and co. There might be a fain resonance in your contributors tongue in cheek comment about loose remarks in pubs, however the fact is the route was climbed even before I got out of the hospital at the end of August and the successful team (the away team) probably knew all about the line anyway. Don Whillans must have spotted it the year before when he put up Sassenach with Joe Brown and Bob Downes was a member of that very same Cambridge party whose tales inspired me and my friends to follow so eagerly in their tracks all those years ago. John Eccles, Ayr
Phone Masts You Cannot 'See':
Dear Sir James Cassidy. |
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