The Mountaineering Council of Scotland

Issue 19 August 2003

SPORTS DEVELOPMENT NEWS New Mountaineering Centre Set To Send A Shiver Through Visitors! by Jamie Smith (Director) Anyone who has driven the 8 miles on the B863, Glencoe to Kinlochleven road, can't fail to have been impressed with the wonderful views down Loch Leven and across to the Mamores, which hold 11 Munros between the village and Glen Nevis. However, the casual visitor, at one time, may have been rather unimpressed with the village at the head of the loch. Utilitarian housing and unsympathetic engineering works stood in stark contrast to the breathtaking scenery. But that is set to change, and in spectacular fashion. £12million has been spent on the village cleaning the industrial legacy. The former Alcan site has been cleared, park and path networks established, housing and roads have been improved. The hotels, campsites and bunkhouses in the village have been completely revamped and upgraded. A far cry from the 'old' Kinlochleven, these changes seem set to transform the village into a key destination in the West Highlands. However, from a mountaineering perspective, the most exciting addition to the village is The Ice Factor™ Mountaineering Centre. This ambitious venture promises to deliver one of Europe's Premier Indoor Climbing Centres to the West Highlands. The range of facilities proposed are truly exceptional, including: - The World's Biggest Indoor Ice Wall. 800m2 of real ice/snow/neve and frozen turf will allow climbers the opportunity to try out very technical pitches testing themselves against steep/technical ice, classic gully features and neve. For those wishing to try winter climbing, a range of easier angles slopes offers a unique training environment. Upto 3000m2 of indoor rock climbing walls, complete with Scotland's first fully articulated wall. This imposing feature can be ramped through 40°, which gives the alluring prospect of a new venue for the competition scene. Dedicated instruction bay, with belay ledges and abseil plinths complete the fabulous training facilities. Bouldering Wall modelled on the NEC Competition Arena Children's activity zone, offering a range of problems for younger children in a supervised area. Lecture Theatre employing state of the art AudioVisual Presentation Equipment. Sauna, Steam Room, Plunge Pool, Showers and Drying Cabinets. Large Retail Unit offering a full range of outdoor equipment and supplies. Café / Restaurant with relaxation area The prospect of a major climbing centre on the West Coast has been touted for a number of years. The final location has attracted some queries (and criticism), however, as Jamie Smith explained - “I first explored the idea of building an indoor ice wall in 1991, when I was in the RAF, however, the technology was simply not there. A few years later when I was at University in Glasgow I discussed the idea with a couple of fellow students. One of them was the son of a Professor of Refrigeration Engineering. Thus, as with most things, a few bottles of wine saw the creation of an embryonic business plan”. To get from business plan to reality, has taken several years of painstaking fund raising. Jamie stated “as you can imagine there have been a number of major construction and engineering problems to overcome. But, the end result will be a much-needed climbing centre in the West Highlands. Many people have questioned our decision to build in Kinlochleven, however, for our purposes the village is perfect. It is sandwiched between the two main climbing areas of Fort William and Glencoe, has the ideal building for a climbing centre and a pool of qualified staff in the area. Mountaineers contribute significantly to the economy of the Highlands, and particularly in Lochaber. The level of grant assistance we have secured from Lochaber Enterprise, Highlands and Islands Council, sportscotland and the European Regional Development Fund have been an acknowledgement of the fulcrum role hill goers play in the Highland economy”. Opening Party The Ice Factor™ will open on December 27th with a series of events through to the 3rd Jan 2004 to mark the launch. A full programme including competition climbs, lectures, tutorials and seminars will be bolstered by a vibrant series of social events in the village, culminating in a huge Hogmanay Party in a 1500 person marquee. Tickets and information on the launch can be found at www.ice-factor.co.uk. The Ice Factor™ is dedicated to the memory of Andy Anderson, former Principal of Glenmore Lodge, who did so much to drive the project through the quagmire of public sector funding bodies. A real man of the mountains and champion of mountain safety.

EXECUTIVE NEWS Climb Through History Update The MCofS Millennium Celebration Gathers Pace Since initiating the celebration in 1999, we have seen a steady flow of willing climbers getting involved. Of 111 climbs recorded between 1886 and 1998 we now have teams allotted to 87 of them. Of these we have had completed details and articles from over 30 routes and have raised over £500 for MCofS work. Most of the lower grade climbs are now taken. Climbs up to 1976 remaining are: 1891 Upper Connecting Ridge (Moderate), A'Chioch, Beinn Bhan 1895 Waterpipe Gully (VS), Sgurr an Fheadain, Skye 1913 Eastern Gully (HS), Sron na Ciche, Skye 1925 Falklands Gully (HS), Sgurr Sgumain, Skye 1931 The Chasm Direct (VS), Buachaille Etive Mor After 1975 most climbs are in the E2 to E5 range (there are a few at E6 and E7). The completed articles cannot all be included in Scottish Mountaineer, but they are all reproduced on the website. Why not commit yourself to completing one today and help us gather together a celebration of Scottish climbs. What about 1999? At the time of instigation we did not have any details for 1999 and asked members to submit their new routes for consideration. After 3 years it would be fair now to ask members to also write in with suggestions. Most of the new routes for that year are contained in the SMC Journal 2000 and few more in 2001. They include: Leftfield E2 5c G Robertson, T Rankin, Lord Reays Seat, Fionaven Seventh Veil E6 6b J Lines, W Moir, N Morrison, Beinn a'Bhuird Love Buzz E7 6b D McLeod, Glen Croe The full list is on the MCS website, with a voting form. The original selection is based on the 'Quality' of route, the 'Historical Significance' of the ascent, the Geographic spread to be representative of Scotland's diversity and to represent all the most significant 'First Ascentionists' who have contributed to Scottish rock history. So, which route do you think should represent 1999? Log-on and vote.   2003 MCofS Gathering Best Yet! By Kevin Howett The Annual Gathering and AGM at Glenmore Lodge in June attracted over 130 folk to take part in our biggest selection of events so far. The morning sessions were diverse and for once had reasonably good weather. For the first time we instigated as many events for children as for adults and many families were able to make the weekend an enjoyable event for all, thanks to a lot of volunteers - a theme we will expand on for next year! The evening was rounded off by Dick Lerski's slick and highly entertaining mountain quiz, which involved the exercise of too many brain cells so late after a long day for many, although previously mellow fellows suddenly became very competitive. The discussion forum centred on the possible difficulties facing the drafting of the forthcoming Scottish Outdoor Access Code and excellent presentations from (and concerning) Bob Reid (Local Authorities responsibilities), John Mackenzie (Landowning curtilage issues), Richard Davison (SNH) and David Green (Crofting issues) were chaired by outgoing President Pete Hill. The AGM agreed the increase in subs. The following people were elected onto the Executive Committee: John Mackenzie (Clan Chief and Lord Cromarty) as our 11th President; Beryl Leatherland and Bill Crabb as Vice Presidents; Derek Edge as Treasurer (to a sigh of relief from John Millar!), Nick Halls (again) as Secretary; and Bob Hodgkiss (Individual Member) and Alison McLure (The Ladies Scottish Climbing Club) as Ordinary members. A full report is on the website.   MCofS HUTS DIRECTORY 2003 REVISION By John W Leftley The 2003 revision of the Huts Directory has recently been published and has been distributed to all clubs. The directory contains details not only of Scottish mountaineering huts but also a range of private bunkhouses throughout Scotland that are available both to clubs and IMs and details of these will also be available on the MCofS website by August. Would Individual Members who require a copy of the directory please write to the office and request a copy [an A5 SAE (20p) would be appreciated] quoting their membership number. IMs on e-mail can also request an electronic copy of the list in .pdf but this will not be available until mid August so please wait until then. Requests should be made by email to info@mountaineering-scotland.org.uk   OTHER NEWS The 1st EDINBURGH MOUNTAIN FILM FESTIVAL Wednesday 8th & Thursday 9th October 2003 at the Caledonian Brewery, Slateford Road, Edinburgh The Edinburgh Mountain Film Festival will be a celebration of mountaineering, skiing and snowboarding, kayaking and canoeing, and other mountain sports. Each night will feature a selection of short films focussing on extreme mountain sports, followed by a slide show by speakers Scott Muir and Jamie Andrew. Scott is one of Britain's leading climbers and will speak about his recent attempt to climb some never repeated Alpine routes first put up by the legendary Dougal Haston. Jamie's climbing career seemed to be cut short after an accident on Mont Blanc. However, after an inspirational recovery he became the first quadruple amputee to climb Ben Nevis and climbs rock routes graded Very Severe. A selection of mountain photography and poetry will be on display at the Brewery throughout the Festival, and folk singing of traditional 'bothy songs' during the intervals. Anyone interested in submitting a film or poem to the festival should contact the organiser by email. Contact: Stevie Christie, 46 (1F2) Balfour Street, Edinburgh, EH6 5ER. Tel: 07919 818 901. Email: stevieontheroad@hotmail.com.   Women's Outdoor Challenge Do you fancy paddling down the Zambesi, hanging out in the Himalayas or mountain biking in Moldovia? Then women's Outdoor Clothing firm “Thaw” want to hear from you. Thaw are offering £2000 to fund an adventure and, as an additional boost, will throw in a further £200 worth of clothing. Thaw was set up two years ago to fill a gap in the market in women's outdoor clothing. Thaw's five staff are all female and outdoors enthusiasts and Directors of the Dumbarton-based firm, Alison Wright and Tracy Harrison, both 37, are former outdoors adventurers themselves. The award is all about encouraging women to make the most of themselves, go on an adventure which fires their imagination and pushes their boundaries - mentally and physically. To qualify, British women over 18 (as individuals or teams) must be embarking on an outdoors challenge not linked to another sponsored event. For an application pack contact Thaw, Unit 9 Lomond Trade Centre, Alexandria, West Dunbartonshire, G83 0TL or log on to www.thawonline.co.uk. Closing date for entries is September 30th.   Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal MCofS Members OFFER The 2003 Journal is now available. Features include reminiscences by Denis Gray, ice climbing in Galloway by Stephen Reid, Terry Confield on 40yrs of MRT life, Allan Mullin soling winter Grade VII and Dave McLeod on E9, plus an essay on the Finnieston Walls. MCofS members can order the Journal at the discounted rate of £11.20 (£9.70 + £1.50 p&p). Send your cheques made in favour of “The Scottish Mountaineering Club” to: Dougie Lang, Hillfoot Hey, 580 Perth Road, Dundee DD2 1PZ.   Walk through history in the footsteps of the Drovers The Crieff and Strathearn Drovers' Tryst Walking Festival 4 - 11 October 2003 A full programme of walks and trails is being organised for this 2nd Festival. Although a highlight of the week is a 90 mile walk following the traditional route of Highland cattle drovers from Spean Bridge to Crieff, a full programme of guided local walks and events has been arranged. Historically, Crieff was the major market town Tryst for drovers taking their cattle south on ancient paths from the Highlands and the festival is a celebration of this heritage. Festivities commence with the official opening in Crieff's James Square with a farmers' market, entertainment and departure of the long distance walkers for Spean Bridge. The daily guided walks in the Strathearn area will focus on the history and natural heritage of the area taking advantage of an excellent paths network. A programme of "apres walks" includes slides shows, "Of Drovers and Drams" tour (with celebrated local author and photographer Irvine Butterfield), special whisky promotions and a celebration evening at the Drovers Hall at Crieff Visitor Centre. There is also much to interest the non-walker with weaving, spinning, glassblowing, abseiling, ceilidhs and much more. Further information and bookings for the walks look on www.visitcrieff.org or from Crieff Tourist Information Centre, tel: (01764) 652578, e-mail: criefftic@perthshire.co.uk.   15th Century Inspiration 21st Century Recreation In the dark days of 15th century Scotland cattle rustling was commonplace. The Caterans (cattle rustlers) would descend from their rough bothies high in the mountains to reek havoc on the prosperous and peaceful farmland below, driving stolen cattle through remote glens using ancient drove routes. Hundreds of years later this illegal activity is gloriously celebrated in THE CATERAN TRAIL - a new long distance walking route. The Trail is a 63 mile (94 km) circular waymarked route in the Perthshire and Angus glens. The Trail starts in Blairgowrie, heads northwards into Strathardle and the wild mountainous country of Glen Shee, into the lush farmlands of Glen Isla, over Alyth Hill, and a final stretch across open moorland back to Bridge of Cally. The Trail uses existing paths and minor roads and can be walked in stages or completed in leisurely fashion in 5 days. It is managed and promoted by Perth & Kinross Countryside Trust. Comments and feedback on the Trail can be made to Perth & Kinross Countryside Trust on 01738 475255 or countryside@pkc.gov.uk   It's Payback Time for Midges The reason the West Coast of Scotland is so under developed for tourism has to be because of the scourge of the dreaded Midge. If you visit in July, August and September you are almost surely going to get bitten. Research done by the world's authority on biting insects, Doctor Alison Blackwell and her team at Edinburgh University indicates that over half the first time visitors are discouraged from returning. Although this means that for walkers and climbers there is little chance of meeting anyone else on those remote west coast Corbetts or on that idyllic beach, it does mean we also have few pubs and cafes where it is possible to sit out of an evening. And camping can be a nightmare. It is estimated that one acre of land hosts 10 million biting midges (of 34 different species only 5 bite humans, only the females bite, and 90% are from one species, Culicoides impuctatus). Worse, with shorter, warmer winters there will be more around for longer! Doctor Blackwell and Calor Scotland have used their research to produce a color gas powered device (the 'Midgeater') that gives out carbon dioxide mixed with an attractant. This mimics a big highland cow and is detected almost 100m away. As they approach the Midgeater (rather than your!) they are sucked into a disposable bag and killed. Even at £1,000 each they are already sold out to caravan and camping parks, hotels etc. Unfortunately being 5ft high, it is a bit impractical to carry when climbing and camping, but if it really works a mini version may not be far away!

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