The Mountaineering Council of Scotland

Issue 18 June 2003

SPORTS DEVELOPMENT NEWS We've created a Monster By Duncan McCallum Many years ago two naive Edinburgh climbers decided that the training facilities in the city were not good enough for their friends, themselves or their ambitions. Not long after, Duncan McCallum and Rab Anderson were joined by David Taylor, an Edinburgh based architect and keen alpine climber to see if they could build a climbing centre worthy of the capital city. The story to this point is a long, sometimes eventful and torturous one. Before eventually securing Ratho Quarry in late 1995, the trio had been in every deconsecrated church, redundant coal shed and industrial unit with over a 10m roof void in the east of Scotland. The Ratho Quarry was originally bought to act as the essential outdoors annex to the complete climbing centre the group wanted to build. However the dearth of suitable buildings contributed to the leap of imagination required by David to think about placing the building and climbing arena in the quarry. One million pounds is a lot of money and in 1996 the sports lottery fund granted the project close to that magic number, which was needed to kick-start the project (no coughing required). This lottery award (the largest single capital award to a non-mainstream team sport) was only possible due to the active support of the MCofS. The MCofS confirmed that the project would be home to Scotland's National Rock Climbing Centre in line with their Climbing Walls Policy and Strategy. After 250,000 tones of rock spoil have been excavated and close to 20 million pounds spent, ten years of work, unforeseen delays (e.g. roofs self destructing and access issues), and 11,000 bolt-on holds and 800 route setting hours later, the trio of staff now numbers 18 (soon to be 30). The first stage of this epic journey is almost over. What was then an ambitious idea has now grown into the largest single rock-climbing project in the world. The climbing arena is now home to some absolutely fabulous climbing walls. The competition wall, which looks like a massive piece of wooden origami, stands 16m high. With a volume of 425m2, it is bigger in volume than some pretty substantial climbing centres total offerings. The Tower wall will be most people's first port of call. Standing nearly 26m high in the centre of the wall, it is designed to give both speed climbing panels and multi pitch training opportunities as well as some finger licking stamina routes. On the wings, 10m high teaching panels on the left are counter-pointed by 12m and 10m panels with some great foot work enhancing rock-effect panelling to keep the brain and body engaged. Whilst the competition wall my be the gnarliest arm wreaking wall you're ever likely to stand under, the real centre piece to this great triptych is a monstrous 1000m2 25m high L shaped artificial cliff. Half height lower-offs have been installed to allow those with short ropes (40m-50m) to retreat with dignity accompanied by climbers whose arms are dwarfed by their girths. This huge wall is not just the preserve of the rock jock. On the south face a 22m buttress of slab winds its way upwards providing easy pitches of some stature, whilst the 9m overhanging central section is reminiscent of the “New Dawn” wall at Malham. And unless you have been to Sardinia or Corsica and climbed on the weirdly sculpted granite, nothing will prepare you for the fickle finger that rudely protrudes from the walls northernmost sections. For those climbers whose neurons cannot take the continual depletion induced by the scale of the leading and top rope walls, a welcome respite can be found on the arena floor's mini Fontainebleau; three 4m high boulders, each with its own safety matting platform, provide nearly 400m2 of prime Scottish beefcake bouldering. Created by the artisan shaper Paul Conforth, these mammoth freeform shapes are designed to provide problems at every standard. Uniquely to Ratho, the really adventurous will find a number of climbs on rock indoors along with Training boards, Via Ferrata's and a Trad-protection training wall. This is “the Eden project with balls”. Nicknamed “The Pyramids” by the rope access workers, who have dragged the roof coverings over the arena, this moniker relates not just to the unavoidable delays, but also to its size. It is big. Expletives, glowing descriptions of scale, grandeur, cost, delays, and overruns have all peppered the path of this project to its fruition. However the first sight of the building revealed from the access path or the adrenalin induced gasp that may pass through the lips of the first time visitor to the Adventure Centre should be testament to is scale. However, as any canny Scot will remind you “size is not every thing”, you have to be able to grasp the quality. The building has been designed to become the new Centre for the climbing community of Scotland. Its role is to enhance sporting lives, not dominate climbing culture. Its remit is to work in partnership with local groups other climbing centres and institutions, to create and develop new standards and protocols, to lead through the delivery of excellent teaching training and service standards as well as providing a reference and entry point into the sport of rock climbing. The future plans for the NRCC include, in association with the MCofS, it being the projected home for Scottish coaching, excellence, team and competitions - national and international. Over the coming months and years, the Adventure Centre is promising to offer more than just its core sport, rock climbing. The Ratho crew has, at the helm of its activities instructional team, Mark Diggens. Mark, who heads up the European Avalanche School which operates from bases in La Grave, France, Leysin Switzerland, and Aviemore, was the chief technical assessor for the British Mountain Guides, has instructed for Glenmore Lodge, Plas y Brenin and the ISM (Leysin). He is committed, along with the trio of founders, to widening the scope of the activities offered by the centre and its expected geographical range. Kayaking, Mountain Biking, walking, Skiing and Snowboarding as well as ice climbing and Scuba Diving are all activities that you will be able to partake in through the auspices of the Adventure Centre. Soon the waiting will be over so you can judge for yourselves. Those involved are unapologetic about the wait, convinced that their vision has been vindicated. Whilst this idea has grown into what will become a hub for the Scottish rock climbing community, families have been started, hair has been lost and many thousands of miles have been logged up by the protagonists in an effort to keep the dream alive… so we await the New Dawn. The Centres proposed opening date is now late summer, just in time to protect you from the on set of the winter rains.

 

British Regional Youth Competition Series 2003 Participants in the Scottish events have to be members of the MCofS, either through Family membership (£33.50) with their parents or as members of the MCofS Youth category (£9). Contact the individual Climbing Walls or the MCofS Office for application forms for both MCS membership and the competitions. This year we welcome Avertical World in Dundee as a new venue in the South Region and the grand final will be held at the newly opening Ratho Adventure Centre (the National Rock Climbing Centre) on the outskirts of Edinburgh. North Scotland Region: June 28th, August 23rd, and September 6th. All the events are to be held this year at Climb Caledonia, at Inverness Sports Centre. Tel: 01463 667 505 South Scotland Region: June 28th at Alien Rock, Edinburgh. Tel: 0131 552 7211 August 23rd at Glasgow Climbing Centre. Tel: 0141 427 9550 September 6th at Avertical World, Dundee. Tel: 01382 201 901 Final: Date: September 27th at the National Rock Climbing Centre, Ratho. Tel: 0131 229 3919   MCofS REALROCK taster sessions For the school summer holidays An Introduction to rock climbing outdoors For young climbers aged 9 to 17. These sessions are for young climbers who have experience of climbing indoors at climbing walls, either top-roped or leading, and who wish to gain some experience from other adult climbers on outside crags. They are NOT suitable for beginners. Sessions will be structured to cater for the individuals requirements, either simply to get used to climbing on a top-rope, or as a 'second' on real rock, or to learn how to place protection as a 'lead' climber. It is recommended that up to 3 sessions are booked in order to get the most from the event. The sessions are taken by MCofS member volunteers with many years experience in climbing. Parents should note that they are not qualified as instructors but the MCofS, as the governing body of the sport, is happy with their abilities, and all venues and activities have been risk assessed. Parents are asked to attend the session, even if they do not climb. Venues: Aberdeen / Inverness / Edinburgh / Glasgow / Perth Dates: Scheduled for the month of July. Exact dates are to be confirmed on application - check the website. Cost: First Session £20 (includes 1yr MCofS Youth membership) Each session thereafter £10. Equipment: Some technical equipment will be available during the session, but if attendees have their own harness, rock shoes, belay device, helmet and rope, then they should bring them along. For full parental information about the sessions, parental consent and booking forms, contact the MCofS Office. EXTRA: We hope to arrange a weekend event in association with a climbing club towards the end of the summer which will introduce members to mountaineering. Based at a club hut (self catering - with adult help!) and taken by MCofS volunteers and club members, this will be advertised during the summer.   OTHER NEWS Bill MacKenzie - First President of the MCofS By Kevin Howett With thanks to his son Ian PC MacKenzie, Irvine Butterfield and Duncan Gray. William M MacKenzie was born in Morayshire on 10 November 1908. After an education at Elgin Academy and Robert Gordon's College in Aberdeen he worked for the Union Bank of Scotland, subsequently the Bank of Scotland, based in Elgin, Nairn, Gourock, then Glasgow. He qualified as a Fellow of the Institute of Bankers in Scotland and retired in 1968 to establish 'William M MacKenzie and Partners', Accountants and Business Consultants, in partnership with his wife, Mary. His early interest was golf as a Member of Elgin Golf Club. Football was another youthful recreation, when he played for Elgin City, and there was usually a fishing rod close to hand. But Bill MacKenzie's main pursuit, and abiding passion, lay in the hills. In the early 1930s he joined the Junior Mountaineering Club of Scotland, and in 1937 the Scottish Mountaineering Club. He was a key member of the famous foursome - Murray, Mackenzie, MacAlpine and Dunn - immortalised in W.H.Murray's classic 'Mountaineering in Scotland'. Bill Murray's admiration for Bill Mackenzie's technical virtuosity and dynamic leadership on their pioneering climbs is evident. Typical is the account of the team's ascent of Slav Route on Ben Nevis, starting with the foursome huddling round the CIC Hut fire in October '37deciding what to do when the weather was so foul. Mackenzie makes a suggestion: 'The only thing to do,' he sternly continued, 'is to climb the hardest route on the mountain'. 'Why?' asked MacAlpine briskly? 'Why!' exploded Mackenzie. 'In rain you get miserable on an easy climb. But go to a hard climb and you forget the weather - all your interest goes to the rock.' His enthusiasm was not confined to his native land - Norway, France, Switzerland, Austria, Italy and Peru were all targets, but he was a leading figure in the improvement of standards in all aspects of the sport in Scotland. Murray's description of 'The First Ascent Of Deep-Cut Chimney of Coire Nam Beith', indicates his approach to climbing and in what esteem he was held: “A direct summer ascent, said Mackenzie, was probably im­possible. The overhang seemed hopeless. But in winter, when the … walls and … pitches … were iced, one might carve holds to supply the natural lack. That was a plain enough proposition. Unclimbable summer rock may frequently be climbed by virtue of a snow or ice crust. He calculated, however, that on a short winter's day we could not expect to reach the amphitheatre before sunset. Therefore the remaining eight hundred feet must be climbed by torchlight. That was a typical instance of Mackenzie's originality. With one bold stroke he cut through orthodox practice.” Murray's first climb after the war, still weak after release from prison camps in 1945, was on Buachaille Etive Mor with Mackenzie, which he describes in his book 'Undiscovered Scotland': “If any man could get me up [the] Buachaille he could. After six years of war I could see no change at all in the Mackenzie - still lean and upright, hawk-eyed and brusque. … He had spent the last year or two in the School of Mountain Warfare, but not once had he enjoyed a good rock-climb.” In 1958 he produced 'The Climber's Guide to the Cuillin of Skye' and he was President of the SMC from 1966-68. Thereafter, from 1970-72, he took on the role of first President of our own Mountaineering Council of Scotland. The first MCofS Newsletter, in autumn 1970, introduced the newly elected Executive Committee of: Vice President Alec Stott (Carn Dearg MC), Secretary Sandy Cousins (SMC), Treasurer Sam Drysdale (Lomond MC), and Mackenzie as President accompanied by a potted biography thus: “Before the second world war he so raised the standards of Scottish climbing … that he became the recipient of a letter [from the SMC] condemning his foolhardy and dangerous acts… In recent years he has perhaps done more skiing, golf and fishing, then mountaineering”. He discovered Skiing in the 1930s when it was not wholly acceptable within the climbing fraternity. Nevertheless, he pursued it with his usual vigour and as in climbing, he excelled. As a respected mountaineer, he was very much a figurehead (as were all Presidents until Robin Campbell became more actively involved during his Presidential period) and much of the day-to-day organisational work was left to the secretary. But his period of office at MCofS covered a pivotal time of establishment and a fight for recognition from government and other bodies; the setting up of winter skills courses; the debate over high level shelters; a period of negotiated 'access agreements' and general conservation campaigns in association with the Scottish Countryside Activities Council. Bill died on 12 February and is mourned by his family and very many friends. He enjoyed a full life as well as leaving a lasting mountaineering legacy, both on the rock and in the MCofS. His philosophy is summarised by his own expression 'The one thing that matters among mountains is that we enjoy them'.

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