"Winter Belays" at Glenmore Lodge
Performance Seminar
Sponsored Places by the MCofS
February 22 - 23rd 2003
Cost: £30 (Note: the seminars are non-residential).
Course: A practical appreciation of the technical protection options available for use on winter climbs.
These one-day workshops are aimed at climbers who are keen to develop knowledge of how to increase their protection options on winter climbs. The day begins with a quick revision of anchor system principles, including tying into anchors. The workshop will then look at the use of a variety of belay methods, such as direct and indirect belays before moving onto the protection options available, ranging from snow anchors (such as buried axes and deadmen), ice anchors (ice screws and ice threads), through to rock anchors (pegs, nuts, hexes and camming devices). Part of the time will be spent 'on site' around Glenmore Lodge, whilst the rest will be on the hill looking at practical applications of the above techniques. The instructor / delegate ratio is 1:6.
The MCofS is sponsoring four (4) places. To qualify for sponsorship you must be a MCofS member, aged between 18 and 25 years and be a committed winter climber. Places will be allocated on a 'first come - first served' basis.
Worlds First Indoor Dry Tooling Competition
8th March 2003
Glasgow Climbing Centre
Ibrox Church
Sponsored by:
Mountain Equipment - Scarpa / Grivel - Bendcrete - On The Edge - High Magazine - www.planetfear.com - www.scottmuir.com
This new and exciting TEAM competition will be open to all ability levels. Teams of three competitors will try to complete a number of challenging “Top Roped” and “Smaller Boulder” problems of rising difficulty, 'leash free' and with Ice/Mixed class boots (No Crampons). Some of the problems will be set by the countries leading competition climber Tim Emmett. The Competition prises will be excellent with big product and cash prizes up for grabs. There will be a “Pro-Team” as well as the general climbing community categories. An ensuing 'Afterparty' might just finish everyone off totally! There will be limited spaces for team entries so move fast to reserve a space.
More details, info and booking information is available at www.scottmuir.com or contact him directly scott@scottmuir.com. Tel: 01764 681 506.
The Ordnance Survey Outdoors Show
March 14th - 16th 2003
National Exhibition Centre
Birmingham
This outdoor show has everything for everybody. It includes displays and events for all adventure sports and adventure travel, a tent city, as well as hosting the Canoe 2003 show with wave pools and freestyle demonstrations and for all you climbers out there, the BMC's Climb 2003 event.
The climb event this year will include The International Masters Bouldering Championship which will feature Scotland's rising world star Malcolm Smith contesting for the first place, The International Dyno Competition (an attempt to break the world record set in 2002) and a large “Have-A-Go” Zone. There is also a “Mountain Theatre” where talks and discussions on all topics will inspire novice and expert alike. The show also starts the celebrations of the 50th Anniversary of the ascent of Chomolungma by Hillary and Tenzing with footage and memorabilia.
Warren Deadman, 1970-2002
Glen Coe was blessed with fine weather on the 20th of September. Overlooked by great mountains which had so inspired him, with autumn sunshine filtering through trees whose leaves had started to turn, Warren Deadman's ashes were entrusted to the clear waters of the River Coe. It should have been his 32nd birthday.
Warren, a keen and enthusiastic climber, and active member of the Jacobites Mountaineering Club, was killed in the French Alps on the 20th of July. On the challenging South Ridge of La Meige, in the Ecrins, an in-situ abseil piton failed, resulting in a long fall.
After moving from London to Edinburgh in 1999, Warren quickly established himself within the Jacobites. With an outgoing personality, he made friends throughout the club's large membership. He was always welcoming to new members, and keen to climb with new partners. He contributed to all aspects of club life, particularly social events. Warren will also be known to many outside the Jacobites, particularly as custodian of Inver Croft, the club hut. Previously he had run a hut in Snowdonia, for the Rockhoppers Club from London.
Warren embraced climbing in many forms, summer and winter, bouldering to mountain routes and, when necessary, indoor walls. Also a keen hillwalker, he especially enjoyed long backpacks. Combining these to visit remote crags held a particular appeal. Most only dream of climbing as often as he did, and he notably made full use of the limited opportunities, even setting new routes, during the 'non-winter' of 2002. Following other visits to the Alps, his final trip was planned as a three-month journey through many parts of the range.
Warren's approach was never purely technical, and a strong moral stance extended to climbing ethics and protecting the mountain environment. One poignant aspect is that he had always been a safety conscious climber.
Warren had a broad range of other interests, particularly music, and a very busy social life. As a stock fund accountant with Newton, his rigorous attention to detail and strong personal skills made him a valued team member.
Warren's energy and enthusiasm, his dedication to mountaineering, his care for his friends and family, his sense of humour, his strong moral values and the effort he put into club activities will be missed by many. One indelible memory must be his beaming smile, as he recounted his latest trip, or revealed plans for the next. That should continue inspiring many of us, to achieve more ourselves.
Gordon R Crawford
for the Jacobites MC
BIVVI TALK
Help is at Hand:
Dear Editor,
In reply to Sandy Park's letter of frustration about clothing to fit (and anyone else out there having trouble) we make made-to-measure overtrousers in GORE-TEX and other waterproof fabrics at a price similar to those supplied by the bigger manufacturers and we also repair garments that we have made.
Best wishes
Tes Taylor,
Slioch Outdoor Equipment Ltd,
Cliffton,
Poolewe, Ross-shire, IV22 2JU
Tel: 01445 781412.
Website: www.slioch.co.uk
Dear Sir
Duncan Gray's excellent piece on the National Library of Scotland (August 2002) referred to our particularly strong mountaineering collections. I am pleased to be able to offer your readers free copies of our printed catalogue detailing over 20,000 of the books on mountaineering and exploration in our Graham Brown and Lloyd collections. These are available on a 'first come' basis, and anyone wishing a copy should send £2.00 to cover postage and packing (payable to 'The National Library of Scotland') to me at the National Library of Scotland, George IV Bridge, Edinburgh EH1 1EW. Wider access is, of course, available through our online catalogue at www.nls.uk/catalogues.
Yours faithfully
Dr Kenneth Gibson,
Head of Public Programmes
Dear Editor
Thank you for publishing a review of my book “The Grave in the Mountains”. I would like to mention that the publishers went into liquidation and copies are now only available direct from me, the author.
Elke Kammer,
13 Cameron Square,
Inverness IV3 8PY.
Support for Scotland's Native Tongue:
Dear Editor,
Nationalism can't get much more aggressive or in your face than Ian Landlash's demand that you shouldn't publish articles in Gaelic. Where is this language, indigenous to the Highland hills we climb, allowed to be seen or heard? Is it to be banned everywhere it might offend the ears or eyes of English speakers? Is it not appropriate that an organisation whose logo contains the words "Soul of the Gael" should continue the long and worthy tradition of Scottish Mountaineering of showing respect for and interest in the culture of the hill country, its place names and language? In Britain we are fortunate to have four surviving native languages. We should rejoice in this cultural diversity and enjoy the richness of our heritage instead of seeking to suppress and repress it. I have enjoyed all your Gaelic articles and urge you to continue publishing them.
Ronald Cameron,
Fort William.
ACCESS - Path and Funicular Abuse
Dear Sir
Regarding the new “improved” path up the Cobbler. I was curious to find out if this was an upgrading of a path I and others have been using for a few years. I decided to investigate. I set off on a lovely sunny day thinking all was well with the world when suddenly before my eyes was the worst act of vandalism I have witnessed in a long time. It was heartbreaking to see; “Sledgehammer and nut” would be an inadequate description. Are the Narnain boulders in the bulldozers way! Maybe they will be moved to allow a straight run through to Beinn Ime! The old boys will be turning in their graves. Thank goodness there are other routes to these hills!
Iain McLennan,
Gryffe Hillwalking Club
Dear MCofS
I thought you might be interested in gathering this anecdotal information. As a mountain leader I have a lot of contact with people who walk in our mountains. I heard a story this summer of a couple who arrived at the Funicular's top station from a walk on the plateau and finding a fire door open entered and had a cup of tea in the restaurant. They left by the same door and returned to the glen. This begs the question, if they could enter without being stopped what is to stop people leaving? So much for the visitor management plan to keep people within the building. This may well have been an isolated occurrence but it does show that there is scope for abuse of the enclosed system. I also asked the Chairlift Company some time ago a question regarding a sudden fire at the top station when they would have to evacuate people onto the mountain with ordinary clothes on. This could be a mountain safety disaster waiting to happen if the conditions were bad. I never received a reply.
Angus Maciver
Crampons, Tricounis & Phones
Dear Editor,
Re: Pete Hill's COMMENT in Issue 14. Barford was probably correct in his criticism of crampons on British mountains - that their use would encourage sloppy technique. In 1946 boots would have been constructed of solid leather with the soles liberally encrusted with triple hobs, tricounis and clinkers. How often have I wished for such boots, particularly on iced-up Landrover tracks, where Vibram soles encourage one to do a fair impression of Torvil and Dean. I wonder how many accidents have been caused because folk can't be bothered to take the crampons out of the rucksack; and how many might have been prevented had nailed boots been worn.
And as for the incompetent getting into tricky situations, well that happens no matter what equipment they use. You've only to look at the example of the motor industry where tyres, ABS, seat belts, etc. give incompetent drivers a totally unjustified sense of security. Hopefully the average mountaineer is not so easily duped as the average motorist.
Kenneth Tonge,
Aberdeen
Dear MCofS
I write regarding the use of mobile phones. Many people now carry them, some professionals are required by their insurers to carry them.
Everyone who has tried to use a mobile in Scotland will be aware of the partial nature of the coverage. Anyone using a GSM two or three band phone will have had the experience of receiving no signal from their provider, but a strong signal from other companies.
Any UK resident who has taken their phone overseas will know that they can use the frequencies of host phone companies in their destination country. This service is known as “roaming”. Allowing roaming among UK companies, presumably at a premium price, would solve many of the communication problems in Britain's hills. No extra equipment is needed. We only need the privilege of paying extra for the full use of what already exists. I have contracted all the UK mobile phone service providers about this. None of them are interested in discussing a remedy. If anyone else is concerned about this matter, please contact your MP and MSP. Ask them to approach the Department of Trade and Industry, on your behalf. The DTI set the licence conditions of phone companies. Enough pressure will alleviate this frustrating problem.
David Nichol
Starting this issue:
A Victorinox “SwissChamp” Swiss Army knife (RRP £49.95) will be awarded to the 'Star Letter' published in Bivi Talk. This editions winner is:
David Nichol (Phones)
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