Issue 14 October 2002
COMMENTInto the Fireby Pete Hill The mutterings and furtive glances from certain members of the committee should have been warning enough. The way that Kevin avoided me in the corridors of Glenmore Lodge on the day of the AGM should have confirmed it. Then……. WHAM! And that was it, the start of my term as President. My heartfelt thanks go to John Donohoe for his work during the duration of his Presidency over the last few years. He has selflessly worked for the good of the Council and has seen many important issues and changes come to fruition during his term. He will, however, not be disappearing from the scene altogether as he is continuing with a variety of roles in connection with the Council's work. Thanks must also go to all of those stepping down from other posts at the AGM for their work and commitment in a variety of roles, and commiserations. That the MCofS is of paramount importance in the scheme of Scottish mountaineering I have no doubt, and our voice is also well respected in both UK and world mountaineering. We are at a time of important and pivotal issues, with matters such as the opening of Scotland's first national park currently being topical, sadly with the formation of the second being somewhat more controversial. The work of the MCofS is so varied and important that it would be wrong to mention just a few aspects here: suffice to say that it is quite astounding how many people work with the council on a myriad of issues on behalf of all of us that take to the Scottish hills, and our thanks should go to them all. As an aside, our enjoyment of the mountains is magnified when we read of the experiences of others. A recent addition to my bookshelf is the 1946 publication 'Climbing in Britain' by J.E.Q. Barford, co-incidentally Honorary Secretary of the BMC at the time. In his delightfully titled chapter 'Choice of companion, equipment and food' he makes the following statement about crampons, topical as thoughts start to wander towards the start of the next winter season: Crampons: These are unnecessary on British mountains. They encourage a slovenly technique and they may lead an incompetent party into an impossible situation from which they can neither advance nor retreat'. Ah, right! I wondered what I'd been doing wrong!
Pete Hill EXECUTIVE NEWSMCofS Annual Gathering ReportBy Kevin Howett Last issue we informed you of the nitty-gritty of the Annual General Meeting. But there was a lot more to the weekend than that. As this is the UN Year of Mountains we added a few extra events to celebrate. The weekend really started on the night of the summer solstice, on Thursday. To mark its dawn, a few hardy souls decided to spend the night on the summit of Ben MacDui. Two of our guests, Stephen Strang and Brian Colquoun, from the Big Issue Hillwalking Club (featured in Scottish Mountaineer Issue 9) accompanied the National Officer, the Mountain Safety Adviser, Exec member Bill Crabb and Trevor Wood. With a temperature of only 5C and a wind of 25mph, the windchill was around -10C! The most experienced (?) of us opted for the lightweight approach with only Gortex bivi bags and the odd duvet or thin sleeping bag and consequently froze. Even several quick runs around the summit did nothing to stop the creeping effects of the cold. Meanwhile, Stephen and Brian had brought better sleeping bags and mats and had an altogether more comfortable snooze. Ruairidh Mackenzie and son Robert opted to do a rock climb at Creag Dubh, near Newtonmore. In the dead of night, they ascended the climb 'King Bee'(80m, VS) using head torches. Robert, aged 10, found much harder variations to the normal route as the limited area illuminated by the head torches hid all the big holds! Friday night entertainment came in the form of Alastair Lee, with a fast pace, hilarious presentation about his trip to China. It was a 'multiplex' cinema all in one room with drums, acrobatics and video to boot. Alastair's approach is refreshing, thought provoking and funny and suitable for all the family - indeed his show is available to school audiences as well where I'm sure he inspires the school children as much as he did the more mature 'children' in the audience at the Gathering. Saturday events included Dr Chris Fen's nutritional advice for going onto the hill. As the rain descended in stair rods more and more people opted for this. Many left the session sworn to give up caffeine and had to throw their packed lunches in the bin and search out something more suitable. Whilst others did indoor climbing sessions with volunteers Laura Alexander and Beryl Leatherland, or 'self rescue' with Pete Hill, a few remained keen to get outside, despite the obvious lack of any visible mountains. The scrambling team headed into Coire an t-Sneachda and were drenched before reaching the coire bowl. Here it brightened up a touch and whilst Andy Cloquet took some folk onto the flank to practice the technical aspects, the remaining 12 headed for an ascent of 'Pygmy Ridge'. With only one and a half ropes, experience ranging from very, to none at all, a veritable caravan of people then ascended the route in various styles. Young Robert Mackenzie proved that even climbing wall - bred youngsters could brave out the real world and led the first pitch in the rain. This was the crux of the route (worth a climbing grade of 'Difficult') whilst the remaining 60m gave exposed but easy scrambling with a fantastic finale on the summit tower. This was Stephen Strang's first taste of climbing and although 'scared to death' he seems to be hooked. The debate concerned the use of Hydro and Wind power (renewables). The presentations from three different perspectives will be presented in the next issue of Scottish Mountaineer for further debate to help MCofS formulate our policy towards this difficult issue. Ian Evans rounded the evening off with his slick visuals of stunning photography from nearly 20 visits to the Himalayas, as well as our own major peaks, the Munros, celebrating Irvine Butterfield's book of the same name. On the Sunday we held an informal bouldering competition. This was generously supported by North Cape, who donated clothing and rucksacks as prizes. The problems were designed by Trevor Wood and Ruairidh Mackenzie. Alastair Lee also gave a hand, or should it be an arm (?) as his problem involved a very long span! The atmosphere amongst the children included both competitiveness and encouragement with even the smallest (4year olds) enjoying the 'craic'. For the adults it was all out war, but the clan Mackenzie (not all related!) lost out to Tim Sweeny despite his injured thumb. The winners were; First Adult Male - Tim Sweeny; Second Adult Male - John Mackenzie; First Adult Female - Anthea Mackenzie; First Junior Male - Robert Mackenzie; Second Junior Male - Nicholas Duboyt; First Junior Female - Anna Wells; Second Junior Female - Mairi Fenton; Prize for the 'biggest, most spectacular fall' - Stephen Strang; Prize for the 'biggest effort displayed' - Emma Kesson. Andy Lewis, North Cape Director, presented the prizes. To conclude, an event like this would not happen without the generous help of volunteers. The MCofS would like to thank Pete Hill, John Leftley, Andy Cloquet, Bob Haston, Laura Alexanda, Trevor Wood, Ruairidh Mackenzie, Sue Wishart, Jill, Beryl Leatherland and finally, but not least, the staff at the lodge for their hospitality and excellent food on Saturday. See you next year! |
MCofS Winter Skills CoursesThe winter skills courses have been running at Glenmore Lodge since the MCofS was founded in 1970. They were set up by Bill Myles, who foresaw a real need to help walkers and mountaineers develop personal skills. They have proved very successful. Described below are two accounts of courses at 'The Lodge'. We hope it will inspire you to consider taking a course this coming winter. If you are interested, see the full details and booking form.
Back into the Mountains By Paul Messer One of the darkest days of my life occurred on 11th February 1999. We were climbing 'Peter Pan Direct', a Grade V ice route in Glen Orchy. After initial easy climbing we noticed that the ice conditions were rapidly changing. No sooner had my climbing partner, Mark, and I decided to descend, disaster struck. A large block of ice fell without noise or warning down the face. It hit me on my left upper arm like an express train knocking me off the climb and rendering me unconscious. To cut a long story short Mark initiated a rescue. My injuries included a compound fracture of the left humerus, damage to the brachial plexus and damage to the nerves which feed the diaphragm. After the accident I endured two years of intensive medical therapy and rehabilitation. During all this time the things uppermost in my mind were the desire to return to the mountains coupled with the overwhelming fear of not having the confidence to do so. I decided to contact the MCofS and ask for advice on what opportunities were open to a disabled person. Lorraine Nicholson was very helpful and advised me to contact Tim Walker (Glenmore Lodge Principal), who suggested that the 'Introduction to Winter Skills' Course would be best. The next stage was to find the necessary course fees bearing in mind I had been unemployed since the accident. My friend Gavin Kellet contacted 'Boots Across Scotland', who agreed to pay the full course fee. I will always be indebted for their generosity. I attended a course in January 2001. During the course we covered a wide range of winter skills including ice axe breaking, avalanche awareness, navigation, emergency shelters, crampon work; culminating in an ascent of the Fiacaill Ridge. The previous two years had been very traumatic but following the course I feel I have ventured out of a dark tunnel. Not only did I refresh my mountain skills but I gained the necessary confidence to venture back into the mountains again; something which I had feared may never happen. I cannot praise the instructors and staff, particularly Julian Fincham, enough for their support, advice and encouragement. I wish to pass a message on to anyone else who may find themselves in similar circumstance; don't despair, there is help out there.
Addicted to Scotland By Paul van De Pealt It was rather late when I arrived at Glenmore Lodge from Belgium (a 1,150 km drive!) but the Lodge has a friendly atmosphere, the kind of place where you feel immediately at home. The first morning, after a cooked breakfast (a big experience for a 'continental'!) we met Mark, our instructor for the weekend. First he inspected our gear, and what was missing or not adequate was borrowed from the store. We had a look at the weather and avalanche forecast and were shown how to interpret the charts then headed for Coire an Lochain. We practiced ice axe arrests, then walking with crampons - improving our John Wayne style - and suddenly it was time to head back for tea and cake! An avalanche awareness lecture followed. Can you imagine? A day out in the mountains, add tea and cake, a warm room, and switch off the lights. I realized what it felt like being in an avalanche! After our evening meal -you are well fed and watered at the Lodge - we had a lesson about navigation. This was of personal importance to me after a rather daunting experience last summer, ending up on the wrong mountain. That evening in the bar we shared stories among a variety of nationalities, but it became later and later and ……. Sunday, 7am. Ooh my God, not used to that! Anyway, firstly practical navigation and the art of pacing, this time in Coire an t Sneachda, and yes, it does work! We found some hard ice and had another go with crampons. Then step cutting - hard labour on a Sunday. Growing more and more confident now we climbed an easy gully. When it became too steep, we returned and practiced our avalanche awareness knowledge with a 'Rutsch block' test. As a final exercise, we decided to again practice navigation. For the first time, all became clear to me. It could not have been better. We headed back to the Lodge for the last tea and cake to end this beautiful weekend. I felt stuffed with knowledge, nevertheless it was always great fun and we all had nothing but words of praise for our instructor. Many thanks to the MCofS for this fine initiative. Long may this continue. Mountain Article Competition 2002 WinnersBy Kevin Howett This years competition attracted a greater number of entries than in the past, an encouraging sign. The quality of writing was also generally higher and in both the prose and poetry categories, the winners had many others close on their heels. The judges were John F Donohoe, Ingrid Parker, Cameron McNeish and myself. The subjects tackled in the prose category were very diverse from factual accounts of walks, climbs and ski trips in both Scotland and abroad, to fictional essays based around the reasons whey we climb and observations of human endeavour. The winner (receiving £100) was an account of the ascent of a new route on Buachaille Etive Mor, entitled 'A Royal Flush', by John Watson. John describes how this rejuvenated his climbing interest after becoming jaded and dissatisfied and eloquently captures the thrill and excitement of discovery. Second place was shared by two utterly different articles, each winning £25. An un-named piece by Thomas Dunstan gave a shiveringly realistic account of the enjoyment of wild weather conditions, whilst 'There's Numpties in them thar Hills' by Hughie Wilson encompassed winter climbing, bothy culture and poorly clad escapades, written in Scots slang. Articles that just missed out on a prize included 'No Discernible Impact' by Andrew Hilton, which gave a depressing account of restricted access to the cairngorms in a futuristic tale, and 'Your Company on the Hill' and 'The Case Against the Munro Bagger' both by Max Cocker. The latter, a tongue in cheek derision of 'munromania'. The poetry category had 17 entries as diverse as the prose. 'Duped' by Hughie Wilson, again in slang, shared first place with 'Wild Women Walking' by Sue Mitchell. They both receive £25 and are reproduced in this edition of the magazine. Hot on their heels was 'Alba's Tears' by Bruce Goldie, which although more of a political and historical lament to Scotland's lands than a poem about mountaineering, was beautifully constructed and split the judges opinions down the middle. Congratulations to the winners (prose winning entries will be reproduced in later editions of the magazine) and thanks to all those who contributed and entertained and enthralled the judges through some rain-lashed weekends. Please keep stirring up the creative juices and enter next year's competition. Deadline for the 2003 competition will be May 1st next year and winners will be announced not at the AGM but in the July edition of Scottish Mountaineer. |
Obituaries
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John Hinde (1927 - 2002) John died on Friday 28th June, aged 74. John's mountaineering career spanned 60 years, much of it spent in the Scottish Highlands, which he knew intimately. He joined the Scottish Mountaineering Club in 1963. John made an enormous contribution to mountain rescue, during thirty years of service in the RAF and more recently with the MRCof S. He worked at Outward Bound Loch Eil for twenty years where he helped countless students and instructors develop their full potential. In the intervening period he was Chief Expeditions Officer on the Captain Scott - a three-year post which John has described as the best years of his life. He kept a detailed record of his adventures and these legendary logbooks provide a fascinating account of a life rich with the joy he found in the hills and the interest he took in his companions. He had been out walking every day this year. He spent his last week walking in the hills around Braemar with a group of friends and on his last day, during his journey home, stopped off to climb Bennachie. Shortly after arriving home he suffered a heart attack and passed away soon after. His enthusiasm for the mountains knew no bounds and he will be sorely missed by a multitude of hillgoers of all ages and backgrounds. To Betty and all the family we extend our deepest sympathy. Tim Adam Tim had suffered great pain for several years and twice had the tumour removed, but each time it had grown back. During the spells when he was well enough to work he had helped out in our office, as well as at several other places around Perth. The MCofS extends its sympathy to Tim's family, especially his Mum, Jill, a keen hillwalker and Munroist. Despite all of Tim's problems in recent years it was timely that he was well enough to join his Mum, and over 50 of their friends, for her last Munro, Sgurr a' Mhaim, on 21st August, 1999. Tim's enthusiasm and enjoyment on that day will be how we all wish to remember him. |
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