The Mountaineering Council of Scotland

Issue 13 August 2002

SAFETY and TRAINING

Helmets (and using your head)

by Roger Wild

Shortly after taking up the post of Mountain Safety Adviser I received a severe slagging from some of my mates (no change there). The criticism was not that I had become a member of the establishment but the fact that in the photograph that accompanied my introduction (last issue) I was not wearing a helmet. Shouldn't a mountain safety adviser wear a helmet at all times, even in bed? I don't think it's that simple. Don't get me wrong – I wear a helmet most of the time when climbing and I've been slagged for wearing a helmet when all around me were not. This doesn't bother me – I'd made a judgement at the time based on a wide range of factors. There are two main hazards that we protect our heads from by wearing helmets – banging our heads by falling off the climb and things falling off the mountain onto our heads. On the climb in the photograph I had judged that neither of these hazards necessitated wearing a helmet. The responsible approach to wearing helmets is to make an assessment of the terrain you are going onto and if in any doubt to WEAR A HELMET. Of course, wearing a helmet isn't the only way of trying to avoid injury to your head. Other factors include route finding that avoids loose rock, not hanging around in the firing line, being aware of other parties above you and not following other parties on routes where rock and ice are likely to be kicked off above you.

This started me thinking about how we perceive the actions of other folk on the hill, the dangers of jumping to conclusions and most importantly the potential flaw in copying what we see others doing. At the beginning of June, I had a great day out wandering along a section of the Cuillin ridge. The weather was good and I knew that the forecast was accurate because I had been on the hill during the previous three days and had been watching what was going on weather-wise. Consequently, I felt perfectly justified in taking nothing except a good pair of boots and a fleece tied around my waist. I had no waterproofs, hat or gloves, no map, no compass, no survival bag. What I did have was knowledge of the ridge gained from dozens of trips including several complete traverses, a reliable weather forecast and a very healthy respect for the seriousness of the terrain (this knowledge of the ridge is not in any way unique or special, I just happen to have chosen to spend a lot of time in the Cuillin – like many others). Although I rarely travel in the hills so lightly equipped, I have absolutely no doubt that on this particular day, I was behaving responsibly. During the day I met two other groups - a young family dressed much the same as myself and two mountaineers equipped with harness, helmet, a rope and rucksacks presumably containing warm clothing, waterproofs, hat, gloves, map, compass, survival bag, food and drink. So which of the three groups was properly equipped? Answer – probably all three were. The factors to take into account are, proposed itinerary, knowledge possessed and equipped carried. I've already stated my own situation, but what about the young family with two 10 – 12 year olds? I met them on the path about an hour's walk from the road having a picnic. They had boots and warm fleeces but not much else. Provided they had checked the forecast and didn't intend to go any further than the coire floor, I think they were behaving quite reasonably. The mountaineers were on the second day of a traverse of the ridge and there had been some rain during the previous day. It was their second visit to the Cuillin. Their gear was spot on for their itinerary. The common factors between these three parties? Forethought, planning and preparation.

So thanks, mates, for bringing this issue to the fore. I'll buy you a pint next time I see you (maybe).

In many climbing situations an objective examination of the terrain will conclude that wearing a helmet is advisable. If you have any views about helmets we would be pleased to hear from you, either at the MCofS Office or via the "Pitch In" section of the website.

 

MCofS Courses

During the next twelve months the MCofS programme of courses will be providing opportunities for training along similar lines to those of previous years. The first courses to appear on the horizon are the basic navigation courses that will be held in three different areas during October and the popular MCofS Members First Aid Course for Hillwalkers and Climbers held at Bridge of Orchy in November. More details about these and other courses will be publicised soon.

 

Two providers of outdoor first aid courses are:-

Glenmore Lodge, Aviemore, Inverness-shire, PH22 1QU
Tel: 01479 861256
Email: enquiries@glenmorelodge.org.uk
Website: www.glenmorelodge.org.uk

British Association of Ski Patrollers
20 Lorn Drive, Glencoe, Argyll, PH49 4HR
Tel: 01855 811443
Email: firstaid@basp.org.uk
Website: www.basp.org.uk

The MCofS supplies details to the public of a variety of course providers – please get in touch if you are a provider of Outdoor First Aid or Navigation training courses and you would like to be included on the list.

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