OTHER NEWS
Avertical World
Dundee will soon be home to a purpose-built indoor climbing wall complex. Scheduled to open in Spring 2002 at St Magdalene's Church, Blinshall Street, it is the brainchild of Mountain Guide Simon Jenkins and businessman Ian Richardson. It will open with around 550 sq m of climbing surface including separate roped and bouldering areas. Route lengths will be up to 11m and there is the intention of including a café/rest area, equipment sales and hire. This will supersede the old bouldering wall at the Olympia Leisure Centre. The MCofS have for many years targeted Dundee as a prime area for the development of a bigger and better 'Regional Centre' and this is a welcome addition.
For further information contact Simon Jenkins at 43 Croila Road, Kingussie, Inverness-shire PH21 1PB. Tel: 01540 661 224.
A Medal For Malcolm
By Bob Aitken
Scotland rarely gets awards for mountain conservation, and seldom deserves any. However we're delighted to record an exception to this rule, when a long-standing friend and ally of MCofS was recently honoured. On the 6th of October, at its General Assembly, the EUROPARC Federation - the umbrella organisation of Europe's protected areas - awarded its Alfred Toepfer Medal to Malcolm Payne. This is a signal honour: the medal is awarded annually in recognition of an individual's service to the nature and national parks of Europe.
Malcolm's award reflects above all his more than 30 years' untiring efforts to promote the cause of National Parks: in part through his work as PR officer for the former Countryside Commission for Scotland and for Scottish Natural Heritage, through international bodies like EUROPARC, but since retiring from SNH, Malcolm has also worked long and hard to advance the Parks ideal alongside MCofS on various task forces of Scottish Environment LINK and other voluntary bodies.
This award can also be seen as recognition that Scotland has finally joined the family of European National Parks, with the passage of our own National Parks Act in 2000 - the culmination of a long struggle in which Malcolm has played a key part. His genial open style of working, and his manifest concern for people as well as their environment, were invaluable in resolving tensions. His commitment to Scotland's special places developed through years of hill-bashing, including membership of the Grampian Club and the Cairngorm Mountain Rescue Team, and a conviction that all people should have the chance to enjoy and value them. As John Thomson of SNH said in his eulogy at the award: "this seems ... absolutely the right moment to salute someone who has long been one of the staunchest and most eloquent advocates of national parks in Scotland". MCofS is happy to endorse that, and to add its congratulations to Malcolm.
World's highest hotel to be built on Everest
Planning permission has been granted for the world's highest hotel - a 52 bed Lodge, in the Rongbuk Valley, 17,000ft above sea level, at Northern Base Camp on Everest's Tibetan side. It is the brainchild of New Zealand climber Russell Brice who has been climbing and running expeditions on Everest for more than 20 years. It will serve climbers, as well as tourists. Brice and his Nepalese business partner Ang Tshering Sherpa, gained agreement from the China Tibetan Mountaineering Authority (CTMA) in Lhasa late last year and Buddhist monks have blessed the site. Sensitive to environmentalists' concerns, Brice says it will be a 'flagship of green building techniques'. Work starts in April 2002. Sir Chris Bonington, who led the first expedition up Everest's southwest face in 1975, called the plans 'regrettable but inevitable'.
Mad Mountain Biker mows down
Cross Dressed Trekker in Annapurnas
(Extract from the Pokhara Daily Post)
It has been reported that a Trekker on the Annapurna Circuit was run down by a Mad Mountain Bike Rider. The Trekker was airlifted to Pokhara by one of Nepal Airways Harrier Jets which was diverted from its normal route on the Jomson to Pokhara service. When taken to hospital the trekker was frothing and foaming at the mouth and apart from shouting obscenities was also shouting Rah Rah Rah Rabid Monkeys. As a precaution he was given anti-rabies injections in the stomach, but these caused him to become barking mad.
Tyre marks were also removed from across his chest, the result of the savage tread of the rear tyre of the mountain bike. These operations were hampered by the trekker being covered by severe flea bites, probably caused by sleeping under dubious quilts without a 'mosi' net.
The Biker was in a state of shock and when interviewed said "I thought that I had run down a woman trekker wearing a brown sari. However, when I went to help I was shocked to find the trekker was sporting jockies and other male clothing and also had a beard. This is the first time that I have run into a "Cross Dressing Trekker". He blamed the poor lighting in the forest and that the Cross Dressing Trekker was wearing drab clothes. He went on to say "had his rucksac been one of those gaggingly ugly neon jobs, then it would have been easy to see".
Ty Ga Barm, our on the spot correspondent, thinks that it is also possible that the poor state of the forest floor could have contributed to this accident. This is a problem no doubt caused by the hordes of booted, trekking pole digging trekkers, who thrash their way from lodge to lodge. The forests are being denuded at an alarming rate for timber to build new lodges, and wood to stoke the ovens in order that trekkers can have apple pie and other assorted western junk foods and hot showers after a hard days thrash. Logs are burnt in the bars and restaurants of Katmandhu and Pokhara, so that they can sit outside on a cool evening, swilling beer and pontificating about how they are contributing to the economy of the country.
A final quote from Mad Mountain Bike Rider is that when the road goes all around the circuit, he will probably ride around it on his motor bike.
High Atlas Traverse Book
Hamish Brown has been exploring The Atlas Mountains annually since 1965. In 1995 he led a party end to end, a 96-day on foot traverse of 1400km, with over 30 peaks climbed. He has written a book about Morocco and the Atlas using this epic as a basis and has prepared 90 numbered copies of the text in A4 ring binders with coloured picture covers, inserts and maps. A few of these potential collectors' items are available to the public. The price is £23 plus £3.50 p&p, and the book will be available in late November.
Trek ideas for 2002 have been prepared-largely following the routes and climbs of early pioneers who, oddly, were British. Some places are available for these small group, exploratory treks led by Hamish personally and using mules to carry gear. Spectacular scenery, friendly Berber people, and reliable sunshine make the Atlas one of the World's great trekking areas.
To order a copy of the book or get more information on the trekking programme please write with a SAE to Hamish Brown, (AMIS), 26 Kirkcaldy Road, Burntisland, Fife, KY3 9HQ
Loose Scree
"Loose Scree" is a non-profit A3 magazine aimed at the seasoned older climber (the bumblies). Six issues are produced per year and it is available free. Simply send an SAE to the value of 33p to the 'Co-ordinator' (he says he is not an editor!) to get your copy. MCofS members are also invited to contribute material to the magazine. Contact Barry Imeson, 2 Highgreen, Tarset, Bellingham, Northumberland NE48 1RP. Email: barryimeson@ic24.net.
Outward Bound Charity Challenge
February - March 2002
One of the most prestigious Challenge events of the year. The Challenge is a unique mix of rough and tough outdoor activities and the smooth, sophisticated atmosphere of a Lake District country house. You will compete in the knowledge that you will have helped hundreds of young people to attend their Outward Bound Trust course where they will also discover their potential - just like you. Sign up your team of four now.
Tel: 0870 513 422 or email: training@outwardbound-uk.org for more information.
The Climbing Calendar 2002
Dave 'Cubby' Cuthbertson's calendar is now in its third year and is becoming a seminal photographic depiction of Scottish climbing. With summer and winter climbs from easy to impossible; from traditional winter gullies to modern hard buttresses, sports rock and winter, traditional adventure, deep water soloing and bouldering, these stunning images will inspire even the most ardent couch potato.
Price £12.95. Produced in association with Scotlandonline. Available in all main outdoor shops; from the MCofS office; or from Cubby himself at: 20, West Laroch, Ballachulish, Inverness-shire PH39 4JJ. Tel/Fax: 01855 811 281. Email: info@cubbyimages.sol.uk. (Send cheques made payable to 'Cubby Images').
Please note that the first editions of this years calendar included
some errors.
Anyone who bought a copy direct from the MCofS
should contact the office to arrange to have it replaced.
Royal Scottish Geographical Society Lectures
The RSGS holds a substantial series of lectures every year. The following lectures may be of particular interest to members. All start at 7.30pm; Price £6 (£3 for students)
Nick Crane "2 Degrees West" - walking the line of longitude through England
7 January: Aberdeen:
Fraser Noble Lecture Theatre, Kings Campus, Aberdeen University
8 January: Dundee:
Tower Extension Theatre Dundee University
9 January: Ayr:
Carnegie Library Garden Street
Stephen Venables " South Georgia Glacier Island" -first ascents of 3 major peaks
12 December: Glasgow: Mitchell Theatre
13 December: Edinburgh: George Square Theatre
Scottish Winter Climbing Performance Seminar 2002
Glenmore Lodge hosted the first ever Scottish Winter Climbing Performance Seminar in 2001. Forty eight climbers accompanied some of the most experienced and technically competent Instructors and Guides in Scotland revelled in near perfect climbing conditions on the cliffs of the Northern Corries. The event was such a huge success, that another one is planed for February 23-25th 2002.
Assisted Places for Climbers aged 18-25yrs
This year sponsorship from Gore-Tex® fabrics means that a limited number of free course-only places are offered to younger climbers aged 18-25yrs. Included is all instruction, any technical equipment required (ropes, axes, boots etc. - you should provide your own basic hill gear such as clothing, waterproofs etc) and tea and cake in the afternoon. Accommodation is not included. However, free camping on the grounds of Glenmore Lodge is an option (with free access to showers and drying room) or B&B accommodation at the Lodge may be booked in advance. Please contact 01479 861 256 for accommodation availability and costs.
(Full details can be checked out on the website at www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/winterseminar).
BIVVI TALK
Dear Sir
I see another affirmation of MCofS opposition to the Shieldaig Hydro Scheme. All well and good. Our sport, however, has a very thin veneer of environmental concern. Opposing renewable energy schemes implies encouragement of fossil fuel burning, or nuclear expansion. The MCofS needs to say what it is in favour of, as well as what it is against. I can suggest, for instance, micro-hydro. Almost every hill-farm in the land drains through a single point. A small turbine at that point would produce current without large installations. One farm near Sanquer already operates this system. There are a large number of other small scale generating options which, if deployed in large numbers have an enormous potential capacity and would improve farm economics. What holds back these proposals is the reluctance of Scottish Power and the Hydro to buy and distribute the power. In England, the courts have forced the Grid operators to buy supplies from small scale generators. I would like to suggest, then, that as well as opposing schemes such as Shieldaig, MCofS lobbies for domestic generators in Scotland to be given parity with England. Soon, perhaps every tower block in Springburn will be generating its own supplies.
David Nichol
Mike Dales replies: The MCofS agrees with Mr Nichol's points about micro-hydro & other small-scale renewable energy schemes, providing that strict guidance on landscape & ecological protection are followed. Our response to the draft National Planning Policy Guideline (NPPG6) on Renewable Energy is still on our website where we made this point. Now that we are aware of the different treatment of domestic generators in England & Scotland the MCofS will lobby for a change.
Dear Sir/ Madam
Would you please alert members about the 'CRM Outdoor Clothing Company' whose brochure was delivered together with your newsletter last autumn. Despite several letters and phone calls they still haven't sent me the refund for items which they were unable to provide.
Elke Kammer
Dear MCofS
I have a collection of top quality mountain gear (tents, boots, sleeping bag) that has been used only for lecture purposes. I would like to offer them to MCofS members on a "first chance" basis at an attractive price - less than half the cost! Contact myself: A D Brandon, 2 Princes Court, 320 Poole road, Poole, Dorset BH12 1AN
Dear MCofS,
I receive your newsletter as a member of an affiliated club and I must say that the recent ones have been good. However I wish to complain about the inclusion of the 'ice lady' photograph on page 7 of Issue 8, which I found offensive and unnecessary. Not all mountaineers are crude and vulgar.
I would also like to comment on an inaccuracy contained in your article on access that the draft Bill makes it a criminal offence to abuse or insult a landowner. It is quite clear that it is only a criminal offence to refuse to leave property when asked to do so by a policeman or local authority representative. Insulting or abusing a landowner causes the offender to lose his or her right of access but is not a criminal offence in the terms of this draft Bill. I do not think such inaccuracy is helpful in the ongoing debate. I do think that the Bill needs an equal measure against landowners who insult or abuse walkers.
I have a lot of sympathy with landowners, having seen the inconsiderate behaviour of many of my fellow walkers, e.g. filling up hotel car parks with no intention of buying meals or drinks, leaving litter, allowing dogs off leash in fields with sheep and so on. I can't help feeling that if the MCofS had been more pro-active in the past at discouraging such bad behaviour, we may not have needed an Access Bill at all! It may be a good idea for the MCofS to produce a leaflet similar to the ' where to go in the great outdoors', encouraging good manners and sensitivity. I look forward to receiving the next newsletter.
Rosemary A Cameron
Editors Note: The Ice Lady sculpture was made by the women's team in the 'Ice Olympics' and there was no intention of offending. Regarding the criminalisation of abuse, we realise that in strict terms it is true what Rosemary says. But the act of offensive behaviour directly leads to the suspension of access rights and the resultant criminalisation and this is unacceptable. The MCofS have probably been more pro-active in education than anyone else, and have always supported the message of 'responsible access'. Our limited resources are split between campaigning and education. Once a statutory right of access is in place the MCofS will devote far more time to education of the 1% who are irresponsible.
Dear Sir
The National Sheep Association would like to thank those many climbers who have shown such patience and restraint during the Foot and Mouth crisis. Sheep farmers in the hills are in dire straits as a result of this epidemic though thankfully some areas of the Highlands have escaped. However it is wrong to underestimate the gravity of this highly infectious disease. Whilst it may not kill adults, abortion is a feature and there is a tremendous loss in welfare and economic terms. Some of your correspondents seem to take the view that our hills would be better for no stock farming. This is nonsense and flies in the face of the general acceptance that our semi - wild areas need sensible levels or grazing, and farming facilities, and indeed sporting estates to fuel the local economies. Access is something hill farmers accept provided that right carries with it the responsibilities towards those who have to find their living from their livestock and game.
We have in the Highlands a unique blend of extensive farming and an attractive landscape for mountaineering and field sports worth millions to the economy of Scotland. Foot and Mouth has shown just how much we all depend on each other and how land management, including tourism, must be integrated for the common good.
Keith McDougall
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