The Mountaineering Council of Scotland

Issue 10. December 2001

COMMENT The Balance Between Risk & Challenge by Bob Sharp The Mountaineering Council holds dear to the UIAA statement that mountaineering is a risk sport with a danger of personal injury or death. The statement underlines that mountaineers should be aware of and accept the risks and should take responsibility for their own actions and involvement. There is a hint here that mountaineers should look to their own resources in regard to safety; that they will not get much help from the Council or anyone else. Of course this is not true. The Council has a policy underlining the importance of safe practice, which is carried forward by the Mountain Safety Adviser and others through information and course provision. Readers will note later in this issue that the current post holder, Fran Pothecary, is seeking new (safer?) pastures. The Council needs to appoint a newcomer and whilst we have a good idea what the post involves, there is scope for change. If any reader has a view about this, then please let the Office know as soon as possible. So, the Council is in the business of applauding and maintaining risk on the one hand but also taking measures to lessen risks on the other. Sounds a bit like a balancing act, with strong tensions on both sides. This is not a unique dilemma. All of us who have instructed others have been faced with the desire to enrich and challenge people's experience (and that means taking people 'to the edge' on frequent occasions) whilst at the same time looking to their absolute safety; you can only take people so far before their safety is compromised. The skill is in knowing when to draw the line and pull back. Problem is that the line's location depends on the individual, weather and terrain as well as the instructor's own knowledge and wisdom. A strong body of literature shows that making errors is fundamental to learning but I wonder how many of us in our learning have really pushed ourselves (or been pushed) to the limits? I have fears that those of us involved in outdoor activities are in for a much softer time in the future. There is a 'culture of fear' creeping into society and a danger that, as the Duke of Edinburgh recently noted, a 'nanny state' is descending upon us. I wonder if readers sense this is happening to mountaineering? Are we making things too safe by giving away too much information, over-equipping hillgoers with fancy gear and clothing, providing too many useful courses, etc., etc.?  People should question whether they are fully challenged. Do you know what your limits are?  Have your skills been properly developed and put to the test? I suspect that few of us really know where the line is for us. When you're on the hill this winter, think about the balance between risk and enjoyment and question whether you know where the line is. But equally important, question whether you have the information and skills to decide where that line is! Bob Sharp is Vice President of MCofS and Chair of the Safety & Training Committee   EXECUTIVE NEWS Winter Climbing by Kevin Howett Over the past few decades winter climbing in Scotland has been changing. Leading exponents have been occasionally delving into new territory with ascents on lines that were previously regarded as purely summer climbs, for example, The Needle (E1) on The Shelterstone, in part as 'Winter Variations' (1985), as Bad Karma (1998) and almost fully in 2000; Centurion (HVS) on Ben Nevis's Carn Dearg (1986) whose ascents have employed aid, pegs, and recently an 'aid climbing' device called a 'golo'!; The Duel (E1) Coire nan Lochan; Mort (E1) and Rolling Thunder (E1) on Lochnagar, the latter employing a copperhead (?); and in 1999 Steeple (E2). Reports in the climbing press of such routes vary as either great achievements or out of condition ascents. Are they great advances? They seem in part to mimic dry-tooling ascents which have become popular in America and Europe, but transported to quality summer rock climbs here in Scotland. There has also been increasing evidence of dry-tooling on popular lowlying rock crags which have left unsightly scarring. These include The Whangie near Glasgow, Aspen Crag in Strathconan and this past winter in Glen Nevis, near Fort William and Traprain Law near Edinburgh. In Nevis, Storm (HVS), Resurrection (VS), Heatwave (S), Tear (S) and Clapham Junction (VS) all now sport ice axe and crampon scratches. At Traprain ascents have been made of Great corner (S), Staircase (VD), Flake route (S), Falseface (S) and Deception (VD); all quality lower grade climbs. They were climbed because they were reportedly "in nick" and the climbers responsible had been unable to get up north. True, the nature of the rock lends its self to hooking and torqueing but the Great corner is now well scratched. Such a low-lying, almost coastal crag may see the turf freezing and the ground being snow covered at times, but not to the extent it does on the Ben, Cairngorms, the Cobbler, or the Coe. Simon Richardson, responsible for many hard new winter climbs across Scotland, would like to think that winter-only lines are the future for Scottish winter development, "I don't believe that classic summer routes make the best winter climbs. The hard modern classics of today (Messiah, Neanderthal etc) are winter-only lines. They receive far more ascents than comparable-difficulty winter ascents of summer routes simply because they are more logical winter objectives". But he recognises that summer routes will always be targets for those looking to climb new winter routes because many of the great summer classics follow powerful lines and are easier to identify from a guidebook. They may also act as a benchmark for standards – a direct comparison between winter and summer technical grades. Simon makes a distinction between the climbing of classic summer routes and the recent modern sport climbs achieved in Scotland of Logical Progression (M9) on Ben Vorlich and The Tempest (M9) in Coire nan Lochan, Glen Coe. He feels "a refreshing aspect about these winter sports climbs, is that they do not follow summer lines". He concludes, "Whatever type of winter route you are climbing however, the underlying principle is that it must be frozen. This provides the most enjoyable climbing and ensures minimum damage to the environment". And it is this damage to the environment that is also a key factor in the future of our winter climbing. There are two sides to this, the ethics of marring otherwise pristine rock climbs by the scratching of tools and the overuse of hammered protection (pegs and other devises) and the wider environmental issue that we can no longer ignore - the impact winter climbing has on rare botanics (many crags such as the Mess of Pottage on Cairngorm and Creag nan Cat on Ben Lawers are home to rare alpine flowers). As responsible climbers we must make the effort to minimise our impact on both these fronts or else others may impose restrictions in the future to safeguard the natural environment. This is particularly important in relation to the debate on access legislation where 'responsible' access is the key argument and the proposed 'Access Code' may prove to be vitally important. Repeated use of axes on unfrozen vegetation can strip it away and so the conditions under which they are best climbed becomes very important. It also directly corresponds to the argument about whether an ascent is legitimately 'winter'. Regarding the ethics of damage to the rock itself, perhaps there is scope in a compromise which makes greater distinction between future potential summer and winter climbing, which not only helps the conservation of each of its particular botanical interest, but defines the ethics of the sport more closely. The occasional 'cleaning' of vegetation from rock prior to an ascent in summer is accepted practice, but nature quickly takes a hold when the routes remain infrequently climbed. In Glen Nevis, some of the harder climbs now require re-cleaning as do some of the harder routes in the Arrochar Alps area. If a potential new rock climb is so vegetated and lichenous that it takes a major effort to 'clean' it, then perhaps it is best left alone, particularly if it is doubtful whether it will become popular (and if the crag is north facing and is that 'mucky' it probably won't!). There is ample unclimbed 'clean rock' for summer development and the vegetated and lichenous lines would be much more suited to winter ascents. They would encompass the need for future development of winter climbing and would be preferable to climbing established or future quality rock climbs. But ascents of these routes need to be done in 'Full Winter Conditions' to minimise crampon and axe damage to that vegetation. To help bring all these interconnected strands together we have drawn up the following guidance. This is only a draft idea and we would welcome comment from all climbers. "By nature mountaineers are of the non-conformist type; they don't respond well to being told what to do. After all, one of the great attractions of climbing is that there are no written rules. Without being dictatorial, the MCofS strives to administer certain guidelines for climbers. These are extremely important, for they protect the future of our unique pastime, its ethics and traditions, and above all our freedom to access our crags and mountains. My achievements in climbing were not as a result of being told what to do by others, however, the one thing I've learnt in life is compromise, being conscientious and respectful. If we're not, there might not be a future in Scottish climbing!" Dave "Cubby" Cuthbertson "I am appalled that there are climbers out there who feel that outcrop routes such as those at Traprain and those at Glen Nevis are seen as fair game for winter ascents. This practise should be actively discouraged". Rab Anderson

(Draft) Guidance for Good Practice in Winter Climbing in Scotland Definition Winter Climbing in Scotland traditionally takes place when the hills and watercourses are under snow and/or frozen conditions. The 'season' can extend from October to April (and sometimes beyond on the higher cliffs). However, there is no set date limit, but rather the definition of a winter ascent concerns the conditions encountered on the cliff during climbing. What constitutes a winter ascent is an ethical question. Conservation Many of the best winter climbing venues in Scotland are north-facing cliffs, which hold considerable amounts of vegetation. At some of these venues can be found rare alpine flowers, which are not to be found elsewhere in the UK. Hence it is important for conservation reasons that vegetation is well frozen to minimise damage. Climbing styles Since great variation is possible across Scotland, from almost snow free to a heavy covering and with variable degrees of frost when low-level watercourses to high-level mixed routes are frozen, winter climbing involves the following different styles: Traditional Gully climbing (either frozen watercourses or snow/neve) Ice fall climbing (frozen watercourses over rock buttresses) Snow/rime ice on buttresses (peculiar to Ben Nevis) Mixed climbing (on rock buttresses with varying amounts of snow/ice) Discretion should be exercised as to choosing the best style and route for the prevailing conditions. The following voluntary code is a guide to allow for an accepted ethical ascent that has minimum impact on the natural cliff environment: For maximum enjoyment, the optimum overall conditions for winter climbing would be under frozen and snow covered conditions. The cliff should have a 'winter' appearance with snow, hoarfrost, rime-ice or verglass covering rock, not just snow covering ledges. The climb should be more practical and easier in winter climbing equipment such as crampons and ice axes, than without their use. Turf (vegetation) is an excellent climbing medium and is best when it is well frozen or well covered in snow/neve and then unlikely to be dislodged. Most of the easier to higher grade gullies require more snow and ice than buttresses of a similar grade. Whilst still harder groove and chimney lines require similar conditions to mixed ascents. It is the view of the overwhelming majority of Scottish climbers that bolts are not to be used in winter ascents in Scotland. Summer routes that are of good quality and in particular classic climbs, often have little vegetation or even ice. They should only be attempted in winter when fully coated with snow and ice in order to prevent damage to the underlying rock. During the winter ascent of summer rock routes there should be a presumption against the use of pegs. All attempts to find protection on such routes should mimic the summer equivalent. It is common practice to place and remove ones own peg runners and belays on a winter ascent. Repeated use of this sort will ultimately damage the rock and the use of pegs should therefore be kept to a minimum with all options for natural gear utilised first. It should be pointed out that camming devices are of limited use in winter and are useless in iced cracks. Considering the above conditions, Dry-tooling, as practiced in the USA and Europe is not common in Scotland. It would be considered unethical to dry-tool rock climbs, established or future.

Send your comments to The National Officer at the office or direct via email: kev@mountaineering-scotland.org.uk.   Hut News by John Leftley Climbers' Club Hut Open in Roy Bridge The official opening of the CC Hut, Riasg, at Roy Bridge in September. A libation of Macallan malt anointed the threshold and Alan Blackshaw declared the hut open. 6 places are available to MCofS clubs - full details can be found on page 11 of the current huts directory. Huts Directory Amendments Ling Hut, page 17 From 1 November 2001 the custodian of the Ling Hut will be: Bill Skidmore, 1 Kirkton Drive, Lochcarron, Strathcarron, Wester Ross IV54 8UD Tel: 01520 722434   ACT to conserve mountain freedom The BMC, the MCofS and the MC of Ireland are launching a new Access and Conservation Trust – ACT. The purpose of ACT is to provide a focus for sustainable access to cliffs, mountains and open countryside in order to: support rural access and conservation projects that protect access and promote sustainability; educate and raise awareness and understanding of conservation and responsible conduct issues; research the benefits and impacts of mountain recreation and tourism, train and support access volunteers. Money will be used from ACT where it is most needed, be it in England, Wales, Scotland or Ireland; acknowledging the fact that many of us are active in countries which are not our home nation. A first donation of £3,000 was made by the Outdoor Industries Association. ACT Art and Photography Competition Win gear and cash prizes and have your art or photograph that represents your vision and enjoyment of the natural environment in England, Wales, Scotland or Ireland published in a 'Freedom Tomorrow' book. The theme is the importance of good practice and sustainable use of the environment to protect our freedom to enjoy the outdoors. There are 4 categories: Photographic Art Junior photographic (16 or younger) Junior art (16 or younger) Send your entries marked with your name and postcode to 'ACT Art and Photography Competition' at the BMC (177-179 Burton Road, Manchester, M20 2BB). The closing date is 10 February 2002. Rules of Entry Entry is open to all members of the BMC, MCofS and MCofI. One entry to each category of the competition per member. An entry to a category comprises one photograph or piece of art, art can be up to A2 in size, photographs can be slides, prints, or digital images (entered on CD and accompanied by a print out).– no email entries accepted. Only entries with a stamp addressed envelope will be returned. All entries (including slides) must be marked with your name and postcode. The BMC and ACT reserve the right to use entries in publications and on the www. Entrants to the junior competition must be 16 or under on the last day of entry. The prizes are as stated and no cash or alternative prizes can be offered.   Job Vacancy - Mountain Safety Officer The position of Mountain Safety Officer to the MCofS will become vacant from January 2002. Interested souls should be experienced mountaineers, committed to advising on all safety matters, and prepared to undertake a significant amount of outreach work. The position will be based at the Perth office and be offered at 3/4 time (under review).  Anyone interested should register their interest with the Council's Office (Tel. 01738 638 227). Information, including the job specification, will be sent out when available.   Mountaineering Services Established Last issue we alerted members to the setting up of a new trading company operated for and on behalf of all the Mountaineering Councils of the UK & Ireland and the training Boards, called 'Mountain Services'. Progress has been made on several fronts. Firstly the position of Chief Executive was advertised and from a strong field Andy McNae was appointed. Secondly, it has been decided to change the nature of the beast from a Ltd company to a 'Partnership Limited by Guarantee' for tax efficiency.   Stepping Outside the Circle The MCofS Course for the Visually Impaired by Lorraine Nicholson Perhaps it was Miles Hilton-Barber's motivational talk the first evening which spurred everyone on because by the end of the week there was no mountain too high, no river too deep. Anything was possible. I first met Miles two years ago up at Glenmore Lodge when he was undergoing some Winter skills training in preparation for an attempt on Everest – but this was to be no ordinary attempt for this was a vision of a man without vision, a man who regards his blindness as a passport not a limitation. Earlier this year he journeyed for 46 days across Polar ice on skis pulling a sled, only failing in his attempt to reach the South Pole due to frostbite in his fingers, threatening his second sense of touch. Buoyed up by his encouraging words, our group pushed themselves to new limits on the sea cliffs at Cummingston and at the head of Coire an t-Sneachda so that what emerged was a group of individuals inspired by their week's experiences to take their interests further. "The pinnacle of the week was camping in Glen Feshie. It was whilst talking to Sheena from Dunfermline that the impact of the week hit me. She was asking me where to buy camping equipment and if I knew any climbing clubs she could join". Gemma Roberts, course volunteer "My greatest achievement was to feel that the participants were really no different from any group I might work with. It was particularly inspiring to meet and watch people operate who were seemingly unfazed by their own absence of clear sight in unfamiliar environments". Hannah Burrows Smith, course instructor "The biggest thrill for me had to be the rock climbing and abseiling. With complete confidence in the instructors all you have to do is "reach for the sky" and enjoy the experience. It was such a brilliant week and I am still enjoying living in my dream. Mount Kenya now awaits!" Norma Davidson, course participant The course was supported by: 'Carnegie Trust', An Teallach Mountaineering Club, Blairgowrie Hillwalking Club and the 'Change Partnership'. Back to Newsletter index     next article

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