The Mountaineering Council of Scotland

Issue 9. September 2001

OTHER NEWS

The Call of The Corbetts

This illustrated book of the Corbetts is a companion book to the successful 'The Magic of the Munros' by Irvine Butterfield. "I was persuaded yet again to delay my retirement and put pen to paper", says Irvine, "and several of the photographs are by members of the MCofS, submitted for the Corbetts Competition in SM6".

Irvine is offering MCofS members a unique pre-publication offer (publishing date October) of personalised, signed copies, accompanied by a complimentary greetings card of 'The Summit of the Cobbler' by Paul Craven at only £25 (inc p&p).

Royalties from each sale will be donated to the MCofS. Irvine writes "I have been witness to the magnificent effort by MCofS staff and officials this past year with long hours and additional costs associated with the Foot & Mouth disease and access legislation and I urge all who love the Scottish hills to support them. This is one way I can personally help provide something extra to help the mountains".

Please address your requests for this offer to:
'The Call of the Corbetts Offer', Irvine butterfield, Crammond Cottage, Pitcairngreen, Perth PH1 3LU. Make cheques payable to 'Irvine Butterfiled' and remember to quote your personalised annotation. Books will be dispatched as soon as available.

 

Cold Climbs' Gets Colder

The stunning, high quality coffee-table book by Ken Wilson, Dave Alcock and John Barry, depicting the best winter climbing to be found in the UK was first published in 1983. It quickly became the 'Bible', to be poured over on long summer evenings whilst dreaming of all that cold wet, white stuff. Now it has been re-issued with a new front cover and a 16pp supplement appended to add new exciting photos of existing climbs. It also contains notes on equipment development, revised grading systems and some additional historical information (although the Parallel Gully 'B' rockfall was omitted).

The Supplement can be purchased separately as a stapled booklet with an adhesive spine to enable you to stick it into your old copy and is available from Climbing shops or direct from Baton Wicks at £5.99. The full reprint is available in most bookshops.

Cold Climbs. Printed by Diadem Books (Baton Wicks). Price £25. ISBN 0-906371-16-3. Baton Wicks: Clough House, Cockhall Lane, Langley, Macclesfield SK11 0DE.

 

New Map for Ben Lawers

Hot on the heels of the Cheviot map is another in the Harvey 'Superwalker' 1:25,000 series, this time for the hills surrounding that Perthshire "Glen of Woe" – Glen Lyon (see BIVI TALK). The map centres on Ben Lawers and the Tarmachan Ridge, all owned and managed by the NTS where access is not an issue. On the darker side, the map also includes Carn Gorm, Meall Garbh and Carn Mairg contained within less enlightened ownership, but now at least you have superb detail of the ground beyond the huge, sometimes locked, gate at Invervar. The western extent of the map includes upper Glen Lyon's hills of Stuchd an Lochain and Meall Ghaordie – which always appealed to me as proof positive that 'Geordies' have more in common with those north of 'The Wall' than south of it.
Price £7.95. ISBN 1-85137-374-8
www.harveymaps.co.uk

 

Scottish Youth Hostels 2000/2001
The SYHA Accommodation Guide with full details of over 70 Hostels across Scotland, details of group and club booking arrangements, tours, meals and disabled access is available from the MCofS. Price £2.50 (inc p&p).

 

19th Dundee Mountain Film Festival
November 23rd & 24th, 2001
Bonar Hall, Dundee

Featuring:
Gavin Bate "The Seven Summits"; Scott Muir "North Face of the Eiger"; Laurence de la Ferriere "Alone in Antarctica"; Cathy O 'Dowd "Just for the Love of It"; Pat and Baiba Morrow "Footsteps in the Clouds". Films include Award Winners from the Banff Mountain Film Festival and a programme of extreme mountain activities.
Displays and exhibitions and don't forget the Photographic Competition.
DMFF, Gardenhurst, Newbigging, Dundee DD5 3RH e-mail DMFF@care4free.net

 

'How long can I keep this up?'
The 15th International Festival of Mountaineering Literature
Bretton Hall Campus
University of Leeds
10th November 2001

Topping the bill to answer this question will be a bevy of stars: Ninety-one year-old Bradford Washburn and his wife Barbara (merely 87) (recent books include Mountain Photography and his authoritative book Mount McKinley: The Conquest of Denali, co-written with David Roberts), octogenarian Charlie Houston, a mountaineering companion of H.W. Tilman, Ed Webster, (new book Snow in the Kingdom: My Storm Years on Everest), Canadians, Pat and Baiba Morrow (Footsteps in the Clouds: Kangchenjunga a Century Later).
A panel of young climber/writers will reveal the secrets of their youthful drive; mad mountaineer Andy Kirkpatrick, rock-climber Arlie Anderson and boulderer Naill Grimes, whilst Jim Curran will read from his new book, The Middle-Aged Mountaineer.
Other delights include, The Boardman Tasker Award, the High/Festival Writing Competition, a reading from the winner of the SMC's W.H. Murray Essay Competition, a grand book-signing and a gallery exhibition of original photographic prints by Bradford Washburn.

Tickets £17.50 (cheques payable to 'University of Leeds') from Terry Gifford, University of Leeds, Bretton Hall Campus, Wakefield WF4 4LG.
Festival website: www.terrygifford.co.uk

 

The Entre-prises and BMC Festival of Climbing
NIA Birmingham Friday 7th – Sunday 9th December 2001

The Sporting Event of the Year

A veritable smorgasbord of activities is on offer:

Climb 2001
UIAA Climbing Championships, UIAA-ICC Bouldering World Cup Final, UIAA European Youth Cup Youth A Category, The International Masters Leading event, The public Dyno Competition, The public Bouldering Challenge, The Junior Climbing festival.

Outdoor Live

  • Retail outlets including Snow + Rock and Outside
  • Come and try it walls
  • Lecturers include Leo Houlding, John Dunne, Niall Grimes, Alan Hinkes, Harish Kohli, Joanna George, Andy Kirkpatrick, Seb Grieve, Jerry Gore, Doug Scott, Crag Jones, Andy Perkins and Airlie Anderson.
  • Seminars and workshops on Technical, Training, Youth, Access, Art, Photography, Literature, New Media, Travel
  • Films include the best of the Kendal Film Festival and bouldering videos galore.
  • Travelling roadshow from the new Mountain Heritage Exhibition in Penrith (Reghed)

Tickets on sale from the BMC at 0161 445 4747 or see their website at www.thebmc.co.uk

 

Boots Across Scotland Safety Day
Saturday 22nd September 2001
The Albert Hall, Albert Place
Stirling
10am-5pm
FREE ENTRY

A day of fun and games for all the family, based around mountain safety. 'Activities' will include Weather, Navigation, First Aid, Boots and Mountain Rescue! There will be displays from MCofS, JMT, SROWS, Harvey Maps, C-N-Do Scotland and more.

Find out more information from www.bootsacrossscotland.org.uk/

 

Performance Winter Climbing Seminars
Glenmore Lodge National Outdoor Training Centre, Aviemore

'Hooking, Psyching and Drinking' 26th – 28th October 2001
"The Dark Arts of Gnarl" with Andy Kirkpatrick
"How to survive and conquer the worst conditions" with Simon Richardson & Chris Cartwright
"Winter Climbing" with Andy Nisbet
PLUS
Sessions on Nutrition, Avalanche Awareness, Mental Preparation and Training for Winter all run by leading experts in the winter scene.

'Scottish Performance Winter Climbing'
22nd – 24th February 2002
Practical sessions on improving personal performance on technical mixed climbs
Specialist sessions on winter belays, glacier travel and rescue
Specific sessions for Instructors and Guides exploring options for teaching

For an information pack and bookings Tel: 01479 861 256. www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/winterseminar

 

The SMC "Clerk of the List" changes

The 'Clerk of the List' is the title given to the person who keeps the list of people who have completed the Munros. This position has recently changed. All persons wishing to register as a 'Munroist' (completed all 284 summits), should now write to:

Mr David A Kirk, Greenhowe Farmhouse, Ganchory – Devenick, Aberdeenshire AB12 5YJ

David does not require your 'round', however details of early and finishing Munros, time taken on round, age, or any other interesting anecdotes are always of interest. Letters will become part of SMC archives. An A4 Completion Certificate is available (SAE please) and 'Munroists' can order a tie/or a brooch. 'Munroists' who then go on to complete the Munro Tops, 'Furths', further rounds, or even the Corbetts may also contact David to update their details on the List. A Corbett certificate is now available too (A4 sae). The list of yearly completers and the Report of the Clerk can be found in the SMC Journal and the SMC website at www.smc.org.uk.

If anyone has completed the Munros in the past and wishes to be added to the list, or even those who do not wish to be included on the formal list, contact David.

 

A Chance Of A Lifetime

The Winston Churchill Travelling Fellowships 2002

Each year the Winston Churchill Memorial Trust offers opportunities for British citizens to travel overseas to undertake individual study projects related to their trade, professional or particular interest. The categories this year include 'Adventure, Exploration and Leaders of Expeditions', 'Sport – for All' and 'School Leadership'.

These "Chance of a Lifetime" Travelling Fellowships are available to all ages and from all walks of life, irrespective of academic or professional qualifications. Deadline for applications is 24th October. Application forms can be obtained from the website or by post.

The Winston Churchill Memorial Trust, 15 Queen's Gate Terrace, London SW7 5PR. Tel: 020 7584 9315. Fax: 020 7581 0410.
Email: office@wcmt.org.uk. Website: www.wcmt.org.uk.

 

Mountaincraft course

for visually-impaired people
10th-14th September, 2001
Glenmore Lodge

By Lorraine Nicholson

This year we have another ten keen participants ranging geographically from Inverness to Ayrshire and one from Northern Ireland so word is spreading. Volunteer sighted guides are coming from all airts too.

The very successful course last year remains the model for this year and will include mountain walking, rock-climbing, abseiling, an overnight camping expedition and bothy experience.

We are delighted to welcome as our guest speaker Miles Hilton-Barber who has trained at the Lodge for his many amazing expeditions around the world including climbing to a height of 17,500ft last year in the Himalayas, then conquering Kilimanjaro and Mont Blanc. This is a remarkable achievement for anyone but given that Miles has been without sight for 20 years it is even more impressive. Come along and hear him speak about his many exploits at the Lodge on Monday 10th September.

Reliant totally on external funding to subsidise course fees so that cost does not become a barrier to participation, we are grateful to the following sponsors without whose input the course would not be possible. Carnegie Trust, Dunfermline has sponsored 5 places for Fife Society for the Blind members whilst the An Teallach Mountaineering Club has sponsored a place on the course which has gone to a student at Glasgow University. Blairgowrie & District Hillwalking club very kindly gave a donation following a slide show. Finally, the Change Partnership, a charitable trust, has paid for the volunteer's fees at Glenmore Lodge.

 

BIVI TALK

Dear MCofS
I joined local walking clubs eight years ago and have bagged many Munros. Unfortunately, I was diagnosed as an insulin dependent diabetic two years ago. This has not curtailed my activities, but has made me even more determined to carry on. By experimenting, I have managed to balance food intake, insulin levels and energy output but there is always room for improvement.

I have never met another diabetic when roaming the hills but I am keen to meet one to exchange information. My local Diabetes Centre has no knowledge of others who hill walk so if any Scottish Mountaineer readers are diabetics, I would appreciate if they would contact me. My email is rickus@ukonline.co.uk and I can also be contacted on the web at www.glasgowwestend.co.uk where I write a regular hillwalking column as Helen Rose.
Frances Rickus

 

Glen Lyon Access:
The letters below are in reply to a letter from Niall Riddle which was printed in The Scottish Mountaineer, issue 8. Mr Riddle has requested we do not publish it on this website.

Dear MCofS
I hope Niall Riddle's letter has been passed on to the police. It is not simply laughable that he states in one breath that there are no deer anywhere near the path yet in the next claims that walkers have to be kept off the land because of the risk of a stray bullet (just how rotten a shot are these people?). It is more serious. This is an insinuation that anyone walking on the Glen Lyon hills should be afraid, very afraid. It is a clumsy and deeply unpleasant attempt to intimidate anyone who would wish to enjoy these hills. It is important that the police are informed, and that Mr Riddell knows that should an "accident" occur in which a walker is injured by a "stray" bullet, then the criminal courts will be able to judge just how far-sighted Mr Riddell was in predicting this "accident". Please reassure me the police are on the case.
Stephen Weatherill

 

Dear Editor
Niall Riddell writes "I find it disgraceful that 99% of the people … haven't even considered contacting the landowner before trespassing on that property".

Leaving aside the matter of what is trespass, I wonder if he knows what response people get who do contact Chesthill Estate. I know of two instances. In the fist the landowner requested a host of extra information. When considerable trouble had been taken to provide all of this he wrote, "the proposals do not meet with our current management practices nor offer sufficient benefits to Chesthill for us to consider discussing it with you further. It is not one of our priorities. ." A further letter went unanswered. In the other instance the enquiry met with the response "the Estate is not keen to encourage walking groups along the route you suggested" and was referred to The NTS's Ben Lawers estate as an alternative. Such responses certainly don't offer encouragement.
John Gordon

 

Dear MCofS
Now that I have calmed down, some comments need to be made. The metal gate is at an access point used by the vast majority of hill walkers over many years. They would not risk being shot if a red flag was flying when shooting was in progress. Further, on most estates, walkers keeping to main paths and ridges are not considered a threat to estate management. At Glen Lyon there used to be a notice requesting walkers to keep to a particular route, and to refrain from descending at a point where hinds and young would be disturbed. In most circumstances simply walking on land is not trespass.

Whenever in doubt about access, I have always asked, and have had courtesy. Alas, what will happen in Glen Lyon is that their exclusion policy will do nothing to promote co-operation or discussion, and hill walkers who want to walk the Cairn Mairg group will find other points of access, won't ask, or will use routes which are less acceptable to the estate. I don't think MCofS or the hill walking community are the ones who are failing to act in a grown up manner.
Fraser Gold

 

The Funicular:

Dear Sirs
I was pleased to see Bob Kinnaird's article and disappointed by the tone of Chris Townsend's response. I ski-mountaineer, but I don't use uplift or downhill ski in Scotland now. I am not defending the funicular.

My concern lies with the way MCofS interacts with its membership. If the membership has a range of views, then I think 'The Scottish Mountaineer' should publish them. Those I talk to are all interested in Cairngorm; some are very anti-F, like Chris. But most think MCofS is fighting the wrong campaign. We believe skiers should be allowed their sport, as we should be allowed ours. There is a precedent for Cairngorm uplift; precedent is very valuable in giving us some of the best mountain access in Europe.

My perception is that most of us want access; certainly we don't want to lose Cairngorm car-park access. Some would like access (ideally free!) to the top. We certainly all want MCofS to be a strong and representative body.

I would like MCofS to properly consult the membership, and ascertain its real views. If I am right then 'the campaign' should be redirected. The only alternative is for MCofS not to be the representative body, in which case it can do what it likes, and something else will be needed for the rest of us.

As a barely tolerated minority sport, should we not be preaching tolerance, and do we not have to accept unpalatable developments where historic precedent requires?
Julian Walford

 

Foot and Mouth:

Dear Sir
The National Sheep Association would like to thank those many climbers who have shown such patience and restraint during the Foot and Mouth crisis. Sheep farmers in the hills are in dire straits as a result of this epidemic though thankfully some areas of the Highlands have escaped.
However it is wrong to underestimate the gravity of this highly infectious disease. Whilst it may not kill adults, abortions in ewes and cows is a feature and there is a tremendous loss in welfare terms and in economic performance of stock.

Some of your correspondents seem to feel that our hills would be better with no farming at all. This is nonsense and flies in the face of the general acceptance that our semi - wild areas need sensible grazing levels, farming facilities, and sporting estates to fuel the local economies.

Access is something hill farmers accept provided that right carries with it the responsibilities towards those who have to find their living from their livestock and game management.

We have in the Highlands a unique blend of extensive farming and an attractive landscape for mountaineering and field sports worth millions to the economy of Scotland. Foot and Mouth has shown just how much we all depend on each other and how land management, including tourism, must be integrated for the common good.
Keith McDougall

 

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