Safety and Training News
Gear up for Winter
By Pete Hill and Stuart Johnston
Pete and Stuart have climbed extensively across the world and are practicing Mountain Instructors. The following information is extracted from their new book which pulls together much of the information forming the syllabuses of the Mountain Leader Training Awards. It is just as relevant to everyday walkers and climbers as it is to those intending to lead others.
Ice Axes - Making a choice
No other piece of equipment is as essential as an ice axe. It is a tool with which to make progress, and, more importantly, it is the key to arresting a slip or fall on steep ground where, without its help, injury or death would certainly occur. Your ice axe should be chosen wisely.
Axe Length
Axe length has for many years been judged by one method - that when you stand with the axe head in your hand and your arm down by your side, the point of the axe should be approximately 2in off the ground. This method of selection is dangerously outdated and those purchasing an axe of this length will only find out its drawbacks when it is first used in anger. The days have gone of an axe being used as a walking stick, with its secondary purpose being as a practical tool.
Axes have got shorter and they have now settled at a length of 50cm or 55cm - measured from the tip of the spike to the top of the axe head. There is no difference in length between 'walking' axes and 'climbing' axes these days, the only noticeable contrast being the shape of the head section, notably the pick. Axes longer than 60cm are extremely unwieldy, difficult to carry, lack precision and balance when swung, and are difficult to cut steps with; they give little support on steep ground and make it very difficult to perform an efficient self-arrest. A short axe performs all of the above tasks with ease.
Why choose a shorter axe?
To explain exactly how a shorter axe is more efficient at self-arrest, follow this simple test: stand upright, make a fist and bend your right arm to just below your right-hand hip. Then get someone to push down on your arm as you push up and try to resist, and remember how it feels. Then bend your right arm to just above hip height and repeat the experiment. It should be felt that in the second position, you could resist far more effectively, as all the muscles in the upper arm were able to work together. This is the key to efficient self-arrest.
One hand holds the head of the axe, the other completely covers the spike. If the axe is too long (photo 1), the hand that covers the spike is almost completely ineffective, and it is extremely difficult to remain in control of the axe during a slide. With a shorter tool (photo 2), both arms are able to work together, multiplying many times the efficiency of the arrest.
A Good Axe for General Use
Most axes are made from composite materials that are extremely strong. Wooden axes should be avoided, as their strength is often in question. An axe intended for general walking and mountaineering should not be ultra-light, as it will have trouble penetrating hard ground, especially when cutting steps. It should have a spike that is not too long and not be too sharp either! The longer the spike, the harder it is to hold on to in the event of a slip. The head of the axe should be a one-piece construction, with a gentle curve to it. If the head is too flat, it will be very unstable when performing self-arrest and climbing techniques; if it is too steep a curve, then it will tend to snatch when placed in the snow and be wrenched out of the hand.
There should be a good-sized, slightly scooped adze, at an angle that continues the curve from the pick. A hole in line with the shaft through the head is important for the attachment of an axe loop. An axe with a reverse-curve shape to the pick is designed for technical climbing not for walking and general mountaineering.
Finally, the feel of the axe is all important; if it is not a comfortable fit in the hand then there will be little incentive to have it ready to use.
Axe Loops and Leashes
There is a bewildering variety of ways of attaching your axe to yourself. It has been said that walking or climbing you should not use an axe leash of any sort, suggesting that to do so is in some way 'cheating'. Don't you believe it, get a wrist loop on! There may be an argument on lesser-angled ground for not using one, and certainly it should be left off during self-arrest practice.
When should I have an axe in my hand and not on my rucksack?
The correct time to get out an ice axe will always be early on, well before it is needed. This may be as early as leaving the car park, or at some point low along the trail. Standing in the middle of a snowfield, teetering in balance as you try to get off your rucksack to release your axe, is somewhat too late. Always be prepared and think ahead.
There have been a variety of views on this article.
You can join in a debate on the merits of differing ice axe lengths in
the Pitch-in section of this website.
Crampons - Helpful Hints
Crampon Types: Which to use?
There are many varieties available fitting conveniently into three categories: flexible, articulated and rigid. Which you chose depends on its intended use but more importantly great care must be put into creating a proper boot / crampon combination as, if this is wrong, your safety will be compromised.
 The compatibility chart below has been designed with clarity in mind. It puts both crampons and boots into one of three possible categories. True mountain walking and climbing are deemed safe only with two types of either crampon or boot, while flexible boots and crampons are the preserve of the low-level walker.
When talking about boot-crampon compatibility, there is one golden rule: it is essential that your crampon flexes more than the sole of your boot. If it is the other way round, with your boot flexing more than the crampon, there is a very real danger of crampon breakage occurring.
A Note on Boots
Note that boots designed and suitable for winter use will be manufactured from leather, plastic, Kevlar or similar material, and boots made of fabric should be avoided. It is extremely important that you are happy with your boots and that they perform well. Having stiff boots is not primarily to do with crampons use, but is in fact to allow you to kick steps efficiently in hard snow before crampons are even put on.
Strapping the crampon to the boot
There are almost as many systems as there are crampons. The most basic is a one- or two-piece neoprene strap with a buckle-fastening. Fastening this in the cold can be time consuming. Another strap style incorporates an O-ring linking two straps from the toe section which makes fitting less tedious. Step-in bindings are now very popular as they are easier to put on. These are divided into two main types: those with a bucket-type toe section and those with a curved-wire toe bail. The bucket arrangement is the more secure system withstanding a fair amount of twisting.
 It is very important that the crampon articulates at the same point as your boot bends. If you choose a crampon which articulates 3in from the front points, and the boot flexes 2in further back, there is a good chance of the crampon breaking with extended use.
It is vital that the toe sections of crampons using the single- or double-strapping system are threaded correctly (see illustration). If this is not done, there is a chance that the front of the crampon could be forced off to one side or other of the toe.
Front Points
Crampon designs that have no front points at all are to be avoided. There are many front-point arrangements available, each designed for a slightly different purpose:
- General purpose - points with a gentle downward curve to them.
- Buttress climbing - steeply angled straight points providing good support but minimal leverage.
- Steep ice climbing - vertically aligned front points (they tend to cut down through steep snow).
- Specialist steep ice - A single vertical front point (also proving useful on buttress climbs where the ascent of thin cracks is the key to their success).
TIP
Our recommendation for a pair of crampons that will deal with the majority of situations is as follows: twelve point articulated with curved, not steeply inclined, front points, fitted with a French ring-strapping system and an uncomplicated adjustment mechanism. These crampons will perform well for both walking and climbing up to the middle grades, and should give many years of service.
Fitting
A well-fitting crampon will stick to the sole of the boot by the pressure of the side posts alone, (except some step-in designs) with the straps left undone, and when lifted up sole-down, the crampon stays in place. Care must, however, be taken to ensure that the sole of the boot touches the full sole plate of the crampon.
Carrying Crampons
The majority of rucksacks designed for winter use come with designated carrying positions with straps, often positioned on top of the lid. If these are to be used, place the crampons inside a crampon bag made from a strong fabric. This stops you snagging yourself and other people on the points. Better still, put the crampons in a bag and carry them inside the rucksack.
 "The Mountain Skills Training Handbook" by Pete Hill & Stuart Johnston. Published by David & Charles. Hardback. 106pp. Full colour. Price £18.99. ISBN 0-7153-1091-7. Available from most bookshops.
MCofS Members Offer: Scottish Mountaineer readers can order the above book for the special price of £16.99 (RRP £18.99). Postage and packing is free in the UK mainland. To order, please call the David & Charles Credit Card Hotline on (01626) 334 555 and quote code Z319.
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