Issue 2 May 1999
INTERNATIONAL WINTER CLIMBING MEETGlenmore Lodge 7 -13 March 1999The weather at the start of the second Winter Meet to be held in Scotland promised a glorious introduction to our winter climbs for the 70 or so climbers from a' the airts who gathered at the Lodge; and so it proved. Accompanied by around 40 "hosts" from the Home Nations they romped over routes in the Cairngorms, Torridon, Nevis and the Coe. Some were a bit bemused by our conditions and the arcane variations and definitions employed to describe our mixed and snowed up rock routes and there was a little initial reluctance to employ expensive tools in the business of torquing. Interestingly, Neville MacMillan of the BMC Technical Committee has recently reported on ice-tool failures when used in this way and suggested that purpose-specific designs might be needed. The fact that there was a lot more stuff in proper winter condition allowed a much wider range of route types to be tackled, than had been possible on the first meet 2 years previously. There was enthusiastic participation in the evening presentations and discussions on a wide range of topics and keen recognition of the need to tackle the urgent problems facing the mountain environment. Burned deep in my memory are the multinational efforts at the Orcadian Strip The Willow at the ceilidh on the last night. Thanks are due to Tim Walker and all his people at the Lodge, to Marmot, our commercial sponsors and to our partners in the BMC, especially Roger Payne who was first up every morning and last to drop; and Andy McNae (and our own Fran Pothecary) who toiled so long to try to match up guests and hosts, and to the many volunteer hosts who worked themselves to a standstill to make the event special for our visitors. John Donohoe (MCofS President) |
THE OLD SAGE'S OPINIONby Phil Swainson I don't really see much of the Director, so I was surprised when he walked into the office with a piece of MCofS headed notepaper. As the Highland Council is building a climbing wall, and the International Meet was taking place in its area, we were invited to send a representative and would I like to go? I considered carefully for at least half a second before assenting. After all someone had to do it. Quite honestly I was a bit nervous about agreeing to escort our foreign guests around the hills. A year of relative inactivity, due to appalling weather and an addition to the household meant that an extra stone or so had developed around my middle. However, a trip to Lochnagar the previous weekend found I could still do it, and my enthusiasm returned. Sunday evening at Glenmore Lodge must have been frantic for Andy MacNae of the BMC. A generous minded soul, he has not the heart to say no to anyone, so a total of 70 guests from 30 different countries were checking in, several minus their luggage, and with some of the British host climbers wondering if they were going to find a bed for the night. However out of this seeming disorder, everyone had a meal, shortages of gear were made up and partnerships allocated for the morrow. It dawned like you always hope tomorrow will dawn, with a crackling frost and a clear blue sky, which saw everyone off to a great start. Berto and Paul from Portugal were splendid company on that first day, though as was often the case throughout the week, it was difficult to assess each other's abilities until actually climbing. The guys took over the lead on Eastern Corner (Grade 3) on Creag Meagaidh, and I was worried that they thought it too easy. We sidled across to Ritchies Gully, which had a fine vertical icefall. Berto picked at it for a while , but then came scuttling back. So I went over to the base of the ice, placed an ice screw runner and hauled myself reluctantly onto the front of the icicle. I believe it was Geoff Birtles who said something like: "The great thing about climbing is that you know you don't want to do something, your brain is telling you not to, but your hands and feet just bugger good sense and go ahead." So I was led on upwards, and of course it was great, picks going in first throw, crampons biting securely, and pretty soon I was easing myself left round a bulge and on to a belay. Ptarmigan belched contentedly around the cliff, a pair of ravens tumbled in their springtime aerobatics, and magically, an eagle floated over Bellevue Buttress for a few brief seconds while I brought up the other two. It could not get better, and in fact the weather deteriorated slowly but steadily for the rest of the week, though teams were still out on Friday despite the wild wind. Throughout the meet visits were made to most of the major climbing areas, with several groups going as far as Torridon and Fuar Tholl, and an extremely keen carload making it to Creag an Dubh Loch for a day out which started at 4.30am and ended at 3.30 the next morning. I know, I was sharing a room with one of them. Not all of our guests were elite climbers, some were hillwalkers. All were impressed by the variety and quality of climbing available, though I believe the Slovenian hit man Marco Prezelj complained that nothing was hard enough, despite the best efforts of a string of British hosts who pointed him at top rated routes. The evening sessions were a mix of entertainment (slide shows from around the world) and discussion on topics based loosely around "Climbing into the millennium". Despite my own love of debate and argument I feel uneasy about these sessions, because for many, the proceedings are conducted in a foreign language, and I am sure that some feel excluded. Christian Beckwith, the North American climber and editor provided a timely reminder of our possible western cultural bias in our approval of small expeditions to big hills, and a consequent assumption of superiority over the big expedition. He reminded us that team effort is still a virtue in many countries. Nor should we forget that poorer countries like to send big numbers because for many it is the only way they can ever get to travel. The debates did end with statements being agreed on issues such as bolting, advice to winter hillgoers, ethical standards and environmental responsibility and on educating the media about mountaineering. This last one was particularly interesting. I was able to spend some time preparing press coverage and spent a day with a TV crew on the Cairngorm plateau securing action footage. This resulted in some very positive media coverage, from BBC and Grampian TV and BBC Radio Scotland, and newspapers. The reporting went well beyond the usual "death and why do you do it" approach, and opened with a statement of the economic benefits of mountaineering and hill walking in the Scottish Highlands. All in all, the meet was another success. Lastly, mention must be made of our "wooden spoon" award winner, Eduardo Mondragon Vial, who sprained his ankle on the first day and spent the rest of the week on crutches. With one eye on his prize, a bottle of fine malt whisky donated by Highland Council, he declared: "Next time I will break both my legs". We had made a convert.
by Lorraine McCall What had I let myself in for? An article in February's Scottish Mountaineer had caught my eye. I had 10 days holiday left and I do tend to act on impulse. One phone call later and John McLaughlin and myself found ourselves taking part in this International Winter Climber's Meet. About a week prior to the meet we received a list of hosts which read like a Whos' Who of the UK climbing fraternity. Excitement turned to apprehension. I have considerable experience of Scotland's winter mountains but mainly walking and scrambling with only 2 winter climbing seasons under my belt - and not the best of seasons weather-wise. 2 weeks on New Hampshire's ice during the winter of 98 had increased my vertical ice skills but I was still new to leading (competent at grade 3 but being 'tested' on a few grade 4's). To my dismay the first evening I was paired with 'Alexander the Slovakian'. Alarm bells!! The guy spoke no English but could certainly recognise roman numerals - as long as they started with a 'V'. A sleepless night ensured…… I'm still not sure if it is a strength or failing of mine to be completely honest about my climbing abilities, but the next morning I wanted HELP. I needed an angel…. And of course it arrived … in the unlikely form of Kev Howett!. A compromise was reached to cater for everyone's ability, apparently. Rout Major (and for me it certainly was) on Carn Etchachan is a IV 5. Mixed and 250m long. My introduction to mixed climbing! There is something very special being able to climb mid-week when the mountains are quiet. Crossing the Cairngorm plateau with clear blue skies, crisp snow, blazing sunshine and no wind was a wonderful calming experience. I wonder how many climbers fell in love with Scotland that day? Snippets of memories from the day include - a Norwegian climber taking an impressive 60ft run down a variant first pitch to Sticil Face finishing with a little summersault to land safely in the snow at our feet; some very chioce language from myself struggling up various chimneys; a very patient Kev and Alexander; an almost vertical learning curve; topping out at sunset; crossing the plateau in darkness, tired but happy and completely 'hooked' on mixed climbing and swapping stories at the lodge. The week had started. I chose to talk about the first day because I believe it to be typical of the week. Each evening there was a general buzz around the place as people relayed stories of climbs all over Scotland, in perfect conditions. Climbing partners varied as much as the routes. I later climbed with Portuguese climbers who were nearer my own standard making for some very enjoyable days on the mountain - although there were, by the standards I have been used to, some dubious belay techniques and stances! My apprehension disappeared very quickly as I started to mix with other hosts and guests. Yes most people did climb harder than me, but it didn't matter, and there is only one way to improve after all. Get out and climb. By the end of the week I was psyched for the rest of the season. The week finished on a high note with a few beers and traditional dancing. This was the first time in the week that the lack of females really was a problem. At least for those of us who did attend who had to dance until we dropped, quite literally. For this reason, if for no other, it would be good to see the women better represented at the next meet!
Routes Climbed by the guests (with hosts!) included:
Thanks to the following 'Hosts' for making the event such a great success: |
|
This page is part of the old website of the Mountaineering Council of Scotland. To visit the new website, click on www.mcofs.org.uk |
[ Home ] [ News ]
[ Safety and Training ] [ Access and Conservation ] [ Sports Development ] [ Council Matters ]
[ Search ] [ Info Service ] [ Membership ] [ Publications ] [ Links ]