Foot and Mouth Update:
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The crags listed below are believed to be currently open for climbers. The headings refer to the SMC guidebook title area the crags are located in.
Northern Highlands Vol. 2 The opening of the Fisherfield/Letterewe paths from Poolewe will have opened up access to Carnmore (the best crag in Scotland, says Kevin) Wester Ross: Access to the Diabeg crags is now open from the village. This also means that the Diabeg to Inveralligin walk is open also. There is boot disinfection bath at the gate to the path Loch Thollaidh Crags - the locals are climbing there, there are no sheep in the vicinity, as long as climbers don't stray beyond the crag area. Fisherman are being allowed to fish on Loch Thollaidh itself. Details also in the private guide "Gairloch Gneiss" by John Mackenzie and Blyth Wright - available at selected outdoor shops in the north (including Glenmore Lodge and Mountain Supplies). Reiff Cliffs in Coigach are also reported open, although we hear of some disagreement between the owner and the crofters, who are being hostile towards climbers. The access reported is to the cliffs to the north of Reiff Island only - access via path to east of Loch Reiff only. Please avoid the cliffs on Reiff Island due to lambing. Jetty Crag, Gruinard Bay: Thanks to the farmer, who has moved his sheep from the vicinity of the crag and has put up a temporary fence - his actions have helped local businesses and climbers a lot. Beach Crag Gruinard Bay: Gruinard Beach itself is also open which gives access to this small crag. The Crags on the hillside behind the bay are still not available as containing the sheep which move extensively around the area is almost impossible. Royal Crag on Ullapool Hill is also open.
North West Highlands: Gairloch Estate, all Stone Valley Crags are available accessing from the Poc a' Buidhe track. Details of these are in the "new routes" section of the SMC website
Highland Outcrops: There are no restrictions at Huntly's Caves, near Grantown on Spey. Access is now open Ardverikie Wall on Binnean Shuas in South Laggan. Weem Crags, above the village of Weem near Aberfeldy lie in Forest Enterprise land and are accessible. The 4 different crags offer sport climbing on steep slabs and overhanging walls from grades 5 to 7b as well as traditional routes from HVS to E5. We have heard that Atholl Estates have on 5th April opened up an area of woodland around Cally carpark above Dunkeld. This means that access is ok to Craig a Barns (Upper and Lower Cave Crag, Lovers Leap and Polney crag).
Duntelchaig is open as access is along a track under the crag.
North East Outcrops: (SMC guide currently out of print) All the crags in Glen Clova are now open. Ley Quarry and Legaston Quarry are reported open. Moray Coast - Logie Head. An excellent small sandstone seacliff on the coastal path east of Cullen. Access from the municipal carpark next to the Caravan Site on the eastern edge of town. Follow the path to the left of the caravan park entrance and gain the coast path. Moray Council have displayed the 'Comeback Code'. The Crags at The Pass of Ballater near Braemar, Deeside, are accessible without risk of infection to stock and are open. The Forestry Enterprise woods at Cambus O'May, also in Deeside are open which allows climbing to continue in the Cambus O'May Quarry (Sport Climbing Venue). Details of these routes is currently difficult to obtain. It was available in a private guide produced by George Ridge and sold through the TISO shop in Dundee. Cummingston sea cliffs are accessible by walking along the beach rather than along the old railway track. Other crags reported open are:
Glencoe: The Etive Slabs on Ben Trilleachan are accessible from the road-end car park as per normal. Details are in the SMC Glen Coe Guide & Rock Climbing in Scotland Constable Guide by Kevin Howett.
Glen Nevis: Polldubh. Access to all the Polldubh Crags from the Lower Nevis Falls at Achriabach. Currently, although it is possible to walk from the road-head carpark into Steall meadows, we are not sure if the farmer is happy with access to the remainder of the crags in the Glen (including Wave Buttress), and especially those on the far side of the river (Carpark Crag, Whale Rock etc.).
Lowland Outcrops: Cambusbarron Quarries are open and have been quiet, so it's maybe time to take advantage.
If normal access to the hill is open, as reported, then all routes on Ben A'an should be available.
Achinstarry Quarry, Kilsyth, is owned and managed by the local council and appears not have any restrictions. Rosyth Quarry: A stones throw from the M90 just north of the Forth Road Bridge. Access through rough forested ground to the quarry and no risk of infecting any stock as there are none there! The Hawcraig: A seacliff at Hawcraig Point, near Aberdour, on the north side of the Firth of Forth. South facing and accessible from the car parks at the road end thrugh Aberdour town.
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