By Irvine Butterfield

For further information see the Walkingwild website at: www.walkingwild.co.uk.

To the north and east of the great mountains which overlook the Dee lie smaller outliers of the Cairngorm massif. Here on the headwaters of the Don and Livet Water are hills of lesser stature whose interest is more likely to be as the famed one-time haunt of the illicit whisky distillers, and the smugglers who carried their precious cargo across the high passes to the southern markets. Even the coming of the military roads, which saw the linking of the Spey to the Dee, found the mountain barrier difficult to breach. The notorious Lechd Road, together with the parallel route between Rhynie and Dufftown are invariably the first to be closed when beset by winter's snows.

Central to a scattering of the five highest hills lies Carn Mor, the high point of the Ladder Hills, a name taken from the Gaelic Monadh an Fharaidh, or 'hills of the ladder'. This is most readily accessed from north and south by “The Ladder” itself - a hill-path which crosses the range to the east of the main peak. The northern approach lies by way of the minor road to Chapeltown of Glenlivet beyond which a track runs to Ladderfoot and the crossing of the Ladder Burn at the start of the ascent to the ridge. From the summit of “The Ladder” ascent to the cairn of Carn Mor is an easy walk along a broad ridge.

A little beyond the start of “The Ladder” path, look for an old tumbledown cairn. Herein lies a tale. In the days when coffins were carried across the hill from Strath Don to Chapeltown for burial it had been arranged that the Glenlivet bearers would meet those from Don-side at the head of the pass. Alas the libations of good “Glenlivet” were over liberal and the pallbearers from Chapeltown got no further than Ladderfoot. The Don-side men were not best pleased to have to carry the coffin down the hill. Harsh words were exchanged, and a fight ensued when the parties met. The cairn marks the spot where they settled their quarrel.

Ascents from the south first follow the narrow road from Bellabeg to gain the track through plantations along the Water of Nochty. Just beyond the upper limits of the trees a ruin marks the site of Duffdefiance, so called as those who built it acted in defiance of the local proprietor. The story goes that if a dwelling could be built and a fire lit, evidenced by smoke rising from the chimney, the landowner had to allow occupancy. And so it was that an industrious man of Strath Don made himself a home to which he had legal title.

The ridge of Carn Mor can be reached with minimal ascent if approached from the top of The Lechd, with the cap of Carn Ealasaid on the opposite side of the pass little more than a carefree tramp across the heathery banks of Beinn a' Chruinnich.

In spite of being more remote from the road, Corriehabbie Hill is despoiled by a track, which runs from the Rhynie- Dufftown road, along the River Fiddich and across the summit to link up with a similar track from Tamnavoulin and Glen Livet by way of Glen Suidhe. The advantage of taking either way into the hill is the possibility of a linked ascent to that of neighbouring Cook's Cairn. A short sharp dip to, and reascent from, the watershed between Fiddich and Livet was the key. Remapping saw Cook's Cairn lose its “Corbett” status and the majority of those seeking a quick route to Corryhabbie Hill nowadays often prefer the easier option of an ascent from Glen Rinnes. The energetic may thus be encouraged to add another Corbett to their tally by climbing Ben Rinnes later in the day.

Ben Rinnes is another hill which suffers from a proliferation of access tracks, the worst offender that which climbs from the south. The ugly scar is visible for miles around. Provision of a car-parking area on the Glack Harnes road at the foot of Round Hill encourages many to seek this gradual approach to the summit with its rocky decorations. Views across the lower folds to the east look to the distant plains of Aberdeenshire, with the pimple of Mither Tap on Bennachie sometimes seen on the horizon. To the north lie the farms of The Laich o' Moray and the great bulk of Ben Wyvis across the firth. South there are views to the Hills of Cromdale and the swollen backs of the higher Cairngorms.

Nearer at hand the soft cone of The Buck tempts those looking for a short easy day and although the views are not so extensive as those from hills to the west it offers pastoral prospects in keeping with its own softer green summit. Simply take the B9002 from the high point on the Rhynie-Dufftown road and from its eastward turn follow the fence to the summit. A short way to the north-east, beyond and across the rocky outcropped foothills to the north of the approach road, look for Tap o' Noth. This is another favourite easy climb to a summit served by a track and path from a car-park at Howton (480283). A triangulation pillar on the site of a vitrified fort shows this to have long witnessed mans comings and goings.

Those staying near Cabrach might care to sample the wildness touched upon in the old guide written by Sir Henry Alexander. Such is the attraction of the old route known as “The Steplar” which runs from Cabrach to Chapeltown of Glenlivet. From Cabrach take the minor road to Aldunie, and Aldivalloch. The road eventually peters out to a path across the bare ridge of Dead Wife's Hillock whence it descends to the broad treeless glen of the Black Water. Strange it is to think that the name Cabrach means “a place abounding in cabers” for the impression which now most intrudes upon the senses echoes that of Alexander. “Here”, he wrote “is one great loneliness, low rolling hills and bare moorlands, with not a scrap of wood or green ground in sight”. Beyond the river, and above the track which cuts through the hills to the Braes of Glenlivet, lies the brooding presence of Cook's Cairn with only the murmur of the waters to break the silence.

Twixt the Don and the Dee the old military road crosses another long barrier of hills attaining its high point on the shoulder of Scraulac before its headlong plunge towards the humped bridge over the River Gairn to the south. This tributary of the Dee rises in the wild country around Ben Avon and is served by a track which pushes upstream to a crossing of The Bealach Dearg. This gives access to Brown Cow Hill though the recommended ascent makes use of an easier track to the broad striding ridge above Corgarff Castle at Cock Bridge on the Don. On this side the hill's northern curve provides a better opportunity to extend the itinerary by following the ridge westwards to Meikle Geal Charn for the closer look at the flanks and tors of Ben Avon, seen beyond the watery wedge of Loch Builg. The lazy arc of a descending ridge across Little Geal Charn and Cairn Culchavie eases the way down to the lone shiel of Inchmore. Here the access road provides a pleasant amble beside the infant Don back to the car-park at Corgarff.

Morven is almost always associated with the Dee. Byron may have had influence here as his “Morven of the snows” was seen from this direction. Ascents tend therefore to be from this quarter either on the path from Tullich, or from the east near Bridgefoot. A more interesting ascent can be made from Glenfenzie on the A939 to the west. Tracks to the western end of the range can prove a useful means of gaining the long ridge between Scraulac and the main mass of Morven, seen here as an extensive back across the cut of the Morven Burn. Aim to reach Morven first and then walk back along the ridge to inspect the curious rocky slit of Slacks of Glencarvie. Then you can then follow a traverse of some, or all, the tops of Mona Gowan, Cairngour, and Scraulac to take advantage of any sightings of the spread of the Cairngorms. Enjoy too the lingering view to the turreted silhouette of Lochnagar on the turn for home.

Morven apart, these hills tend to be neglected, as their bland ridges do not endear them to those seeking the drama of the great corries and couloirs of the nearby Cairngorms and Lochnagar. These miniature ranges are more for those seekers of solitude with a hint of wildness. Even in the height of summer there may be few on these hill tops and they are yours to selfishly enjoy at leisure. These hills are perhaps at their best time in winter when the chance of a short day with an objective cairn in mind, place them at an advantage.

If not a hill round there is always the possibility of trying your hand at ski-ing at The Lechd. Who knows this may encourage exploration on ski as the smoothness of the hills with a heather coverlet to hold the snow could well provide challenge of a different kind.

Whatever your choice celebrate your days outing with a glass of the cratur, truly a distilled essence of these particular hills. And so what if the weather really does turn nasty? Or you just fancy a lazy day? - Then that is excuse enough for making that visit to see how the spirit of the hills still keeps to the time honoured traditions of those who once knew their secret corners.