By Irvine Butterfield

For further information see the Walkingwild website at: www.walkingwild.co.uk.

Think of Sutherland and most hill-walkers will tell you that the best of the hills lie in the north-west, with Ben Hope, Ben Loyal, and the hills of Reay and Assynt those most worthy of ascent. As far as hill-walking goes Caithness generally fails to merit mention, and almost predictably the Flow Country will be cited as the epitome of the county's scenery.

The A9 is a convenient route to this far north east corner and entry to Sutherland by the new bridge and causeway across the Dornoch Firth has cut the journey time considerably. It was thus that I was able to reach Helmsdale by early afternoon. The township seemed an ideal base from which to explore East Sutherland and Caithness. There was immediate appeal as not only did I find a suitable photographic subject, and a place to park and stretch the legs, but also found a welcome from a lady putting out potted plants in front of a B&B which was once the Customs House. And thus it was that I found convenient lodging, with ample time to take an afternoon run up the coast to make a foray into the hills in search of the access to Morven, the highest point in Caithness.

It was thirty years since I had negotiated the notorious Berriedale Braes - some things may have changed but not the crossing of the Berriedale Water! I found the sign to Braemore at the top of the steep hill above Dunbeath and here entered a narrow road into the hills. I was quite unprepared for the view as I turned the corner above the long slant down to Braemore for ahead the spire of Maiden Pap burst into view, with the conical Morven peeping shyly over its shoulder. Morven's conical silhouette can be identified from hill-tops far south of Inverness. With its long backed neighbour, Scaraben can be seen in bold array when travelling south on the A9 near Lybster, and as a distant backdrop to the rolling moors stretching inland from the greener plain along the northern coast.

The end of the road lies at a small bridge with a telephone box close by. Here it is possible to park a vehicle on a tarmacadam stance beside the river. Ahead and through a gate a track leads into the moors, and in search of pictures I walked a way along it. For the first time I became conscious of the vast solitudes which lie in the interior of Scotland's most northerly counties. Moorland birds such as the curlew rose with haunting cry to add to the mysticism of these lonely swathes of heath.

The route to the hill crosses the bridge and follows a track to an old wheel house at the mountain's foot. A notice at the bridge suggests responsible walkers are welcome and seeks co-operation at times of the deer cull, for beyond the road-head lies an extensive deer forest stretching westward to distant Reay and Assynt.

The metal ribbon of the railway stitches together the small communities in the centre of these moors and small clusters of houses which would otherwise go unrecorded appear on the larger scale maps as if to emphasise the presence of a populace, a source of comfort to the traveller through a land which, on acquaintance, seems one vast emptiness.

At Helmsdale the railway turns inland, to be accompanied by the road along the Strath of Kildonan. At a crossing of the Kildonan Burn, a sign "Baile an Or", the town of gold, recalls a time when men encamped here in 1868 after gold had been discovered. The finds were hardly commercial and Scotland's Gold Rush lasted but two short years. Small deposits are still found in the gravels of the Suisgill Burn and it is not unusual to see a car parked nearby as someone tries their luck. A walker with youngsters to amuse may consider this a fun idea to entertain them on the odd day when not committed to the hill.

Walkers who travel this road may have as their day's objective the twin heathery heights of Ben Griam Mor 1936ft/590m and Ben Griam Beg 1903ft/580m. A parking space will be found at an old quarry (787378) on the B871 north of Badanloch Lodge. Look then for an angler's track to Loch Coire nam Mang which leaves the road just before Garvault Hotel. This provides the easiest start to the heathery clamber up Ben Griam Mor's steep southern flank. Keep to the north east ridge to avoid sandstone outcrops and the lead down to the boggier crossing to the conical cap of Ben Griam Beag. Looking out across the bleak moorland basin of Loch Badanloch to the great crouch of Ben Armine it is difficult to imagine that at one time this great emptiness knew the coming and going of many men. Some obviously found a need to establish defensive positions and it comes as a surprise to find that this hill's summit possessed the highest hill fort in Scotland. There are walls and enclosures on the southern flank and a larger walled area engirding the summit itself.

To those surveying the great sprawling bulk of hills in the Ben Armine Forest there is the obvious challenge of the lengthy walk to reach the mountain's foot. On the eastern approach to Loch Badanloch the sign to Loch Choire Lodge suggests this is the most convenient route. The remoteness of the mountain's setting amidst bleak acres tempts most of its visitors to make use of a mountain bike to reach its isolated hill mass. The time saved on the approach might also be put to good use by visiting Creag Mhor 2340ft/713m, another hill in the Graham's list of 2000ft peaks.

To the photographer comes challenge, as it is difficult to embrace the sheer scale of the spaciousness of Sutherland's heartland. With sun comes haze and the dust rising from the moors frequently obliterates the longer views with mountains and sky fusing into the one grey horizon. At Forsinard the road leaves the railway and pushes along Strath Halladale to the coast at Melvich. This road leads northwards to the coast where a search for photographic studies may find reward in the many townships strung out along the new road which runs west to Tongue.

One narrow road pushes out along a stubby peninsula towards Strathy Point, and there is a convenient car-parking space at the gateway to the final stretch of tarmacadam which leads on to the lighthouse. This headland's projection is such that there are clear views in both easterly and westerly directions towards the sea-cliffs ranged along this northern coastline. A natural arch adds to the attraction of the walk and there are added opportunities to walk the close-cropped sward along the cliff tops in either direction. You may look down to find lobster fishermen lifting and lowering their pots from boats on the swell below.

In search of other low level walks venture north to Dunbeath with its associations with its most famous son, the writer Neil Gunn. In "Highland River" he tells of his search for the river's source and this provides a setting for the walk up the Dunbeath Water from the former meal mill by the old bridge. A good path keeps company with the river which courses through a steep sided, wooded valley. Beyond the tumbled walls of Dunbeath Broch it is possible to cross the river to visit the abandoned buildings of the Old Milton Inn. The walk continues to a point where the path climbs up above the Prisoner's Leap Gorge at Creag an Fithich. Tradition has it that Ian McCormack Gunn was given chance of release by his captors, the Keiths, should he leap the gorge. Like the Keiths you will consider this an impossibility but as with all good stories Gunn is successful, owing his prowess it is said, to the fact that as an orphan he was raised on hind's milk.

Above the gorge a fence can be followed up to a track which courses across the open fields towards the white walls of a cemetery. Those interested in antiquities can also visit the height of Carn na Maranaich where there is a chambered cairn, and standing stone. Looking up-river it is easy to see what attracted Gunn for the U-shaped valley is quite distinctive and leads the eye right into the bosom of low rambling hills, wherein lies its illusive source.

Having ventured so far north the majority of visitors will be tempted to visit John o' Groats best known as a starting point for walking the length of Britain. In search of a shorter stroll look to Duncansby lighthouse (road end car park) and follow the green pathways along the coast and cliffs. Look north across the turbulent waters of the Pentland Firth, where it is said eight tides meet. Beyond lie the low silhouettes of the green islands of Orkney's archipelago. The pointed tips of the Stacks of Duncansby appear just as you reach the triangulation pillar above the lighthouse car park, and their pyramidal stacks soon come into fuller view on approaches to the cliff edge. Few go much farther than the cliff top overlooking the stacks but extend the walk a little further if you hanker to be one your own. There used to be an old adage that there was room to move in Sutherland. Despite an increase in tourism the walkers of hill and cliff-top will find this to be as true as ever so why not take a trip north and enjoy these northern counties - their peace and tranquillity is surely the real gold to be found there.