By Irvine Butterfield

 

For further information see the Walkingwild website at: www.walkingwild.co.uk.

A day of threatening rain with scuds of mist lowering on the brows of Suilven and Canisp did little to inspire the small company looking out from the breakfast table of the SMC hut at Elphin. Was it to be one of those days ? Lethargy was setting in. What to do? The day threatened and the skies grew ominously darker and a good soaking before they even got anywhere close to a hill seemed guaranteed. The best option would be a low level walk. Perhaps a foray in the direction of Lochinver? The coast might catch what clear weather might be had as the skies... just .. hopefully... might clear from the west.

It wasn't exactly promising by the time Inverkirkaig was reached but with the river running high it seemed that spectacle might be had at the Falls of Kirkaig. The party ought to manage that! And, if the rain did hold off or show signs of clearing perhaps there might just be a rainbow over Suilven to keep the photographers happy. At least the walk would be among the mountains and with youngsters in the party parents entertained the hope that they might at least release much of their pent up energies. And if the heavy downpours did actually materialise retreat to the tearoom had its attractions, and Lochinver might be worth a look.

Fisherman were casting their lines in the river as we passed. Several people were heading for the Falls, there to enjoy the thundering peat brown flood. Spirits were sufficiently uplifted by a clearing in the squalls to encourage some to press on to Fionn Loch. And yes - the laggards were later to enjoy a rainbow over a brooding Suilven. An envigorating walk and on return what better than to relax over tea and buns in Acrins Bookshop at Inverkirkaig.

"There was always tomorrow" and though this was to prove to be not exactly the brightest of days most people ventured out and were on the hill. Good fortune smiled for a time and a wan sun broke through, and the mist cleared long enough for decent views to the remote interior about the head of Glen Coul and far north to Ben Stack and Foinaven. Honour was satisfied at the mist shrouded summit cairn of Glas Bheinn. Assynt had given a taste of what it had to offer and it seemed there was something for everyone.

Though often dismissed as lacking "facilities" remote Assynt had shown there were simple pleasures to be had even when the hills had "an off day". What else might there have been to see and do for those seeking the joys of walking wild. And what was this land of Assynt all about?

The name of the area comes from the Norse and means rocky district. As they forayed along the west coast southwards from the turning point of Cape Wrath the Vikings found themselves looking towards a low crumpled landscape dominated by primeaval stacks, each with a unique characteristic. Suilven to them was Sul Fjall, pillar mountain, and must have been a sure guide towards the anchorage where now lies the tiny port of Lochinver, the natural centre of the district.

To the mountaineer Assynt is typified by the long crouch of Suilven, whose western pillars catch the late evening sun. Here too lies Stac Pollaidh, one of the great masterpieces of rock architecture, which the late Professor Heddle of the SMC compared to "a porcupine in a state of extreme irascibility". At scarce a shadow over 2000ft this is one of the most popular mountains in the North West Highlands, nowadays more easily accessed by a path which rises from a convenient car park to its nibbled crest. Skill is needed to make the actual summit which is guarded by the celebrated "mauvais pas", an exposed rock step of 15ft.

Near neighbours Cul Beag and Cul Mor also lift individualistic stacks to the heavens and are easily accessed from the road which contours their south and eastern bases. The cairns at their summits give extensive views focussed on Suilven in the centre of the wild moors to north and west. Southward views embrace the hills of Coigach and distantly the spires of An Teallach provide a landmark south of the peninsula between the two Loch Brooms where sits the anvil of Beinn Ghobhlach. Canisp is more retiring and little more than a leisurely haul up the long drag to a summit noted for its elongated view of Suilven to the south-west.

Inchnadamph, lying in a northern corner of the district, is the ideal centre for tackling the triple topped Quinag, scree-roughened Glas Bheinn, and the stone-ragged ridge of Breabag. Many of the mountaineers are most like to be intent upon seeking out the jagged quartzite ridge linking the areas only two Munros, Conival and Ben More Assynt. As the highest peaks in the district it could be argued that they are the overlords of this rocky kingdom though assuredly that crown belongs to Suilven. The Munroists eager to add to their tallies may care to set tables aside and sample the delights of these lower peaks for the attainment of their summits will provide rewards aplenty.

To some, like the party mentioned earlier, just being among the mountains satisfies their ambitions. Cross-country back-packers may chose a choice of routes passing through the wild moors about Suilven. The path beyond the Falls of Kirkaig follows an old right of way across the moors to Elphin, which skirts the western end of Fionn Loch and thence by higher ground to a defile at its eastern end. The narrow line of Loch Gleannan a' Mhadaidh points the way to the northern shores of Cam Loch where a path from Lochinver is joined for the walk out to the road. This latter path is considered by many to be one of the best cross-country routes in the area. The route up Glen Canisp is another popular approach to Suilven, reached on a direct line across the moors from the bridge at the foot of Loch na Gainimh. The easterly continuation of the cross-country path also gives a westerly approach to the long slant of Canisp's western ridge. At the foot of Canisp the path passes by lonely Lochan Fada before crossing a low shoulder to reach the Cam Loch.

Others may seek the coast to enjoy a bracing walk along the cliffs. One of the most popular tramps is that from the lighthouse at Stoer (car parking) towards Point of Stoer. Here a path scratches a damp ribbon in and out of the hollows meandering north towards the tip of the peninsula. About two miles walking brings the walker to the point overlooking the Old Man of Stoer, one of the noted sea stacks in the North West.

Another worthwhile excursion is that along Loch Glencoul. The coastline here requires care and for the less energetic there may be little persuasion needed to take the boat cruise from Kylesku to the head of Loch Beag to see Britain's highest waterfall. Variously spelt Eas a' Chual Aluinn or Eas-Coul-Aulin, it is by any spelling a plunging waterslide of some 600ft. Although the lip can be reached by way of a cross-country path from Loch Gainmhich (Skiag Bridge to Kylesku road) the fall appears less spectacular as one comes out at the head of the plunge and the ground hereabouts denies easy viewing. Sadly, trying to get a closer look at the fall, several people have come to grief and have slipped to their death on the uneven and greasy terrain.

If it is a simple potter around why not take a look at the Bone Caves near Inchnadamph. Here bone fragments have been found of ancient species which once roamed the highlands - brown bear, arctic fox, and lynx, with many specimens of reindeer antlers dating back 8000 years.

Near Elphin lies the Knockan Crag with its recently developed trails clearly identifying the line of the Moine Thrust, the massive fault, which did much to shape the landscape we see today. A part of this unique folding of the rocks leads to the various exposures of rock, which support a variety of plant life. This provided the impetus for the creation of the Inverpolly National Nature Reserve.

Youngsters in your party are well catered for in Lochinver where the award winning visitor centre has an upstairs area specially dedicated to presenting information in an attractive way. Mums and dads wanting to get out of doors and encourage their offspring to do likewise will hope they enjoy the Assynt CD-Rom information guide, and maybe be tempted to try one of the guided walks. Rangers will help in the summer with such walks and talks and for do it yourself try the nearby Culag Community Woodland, and see how many birds, plants and animals you can see. Lots more animals to be seen too at the Highland and Rare Breeds Farm in Elphin and always the chance of a refreshment at the nearby cafe. And if you have a healthy glow on your cheeks after your visit to Assynt are you absolutely sure that you didn't get it by spending too much time in front of the blazing log fire in the bar of the Inchnadamph Hotel?

All photos by Duncan Gray