By Irvine Butterfield

For further information see the Walkingwild website at: www.walkingwild.co.uk.

Arran is said to have most of the features of Scotland within the compass of the one compact island setting, though to the hill-walker and mountaineer thoughts invariably turn to the north end of the island, and especially the bold stacks of the peaks ranged above Glen Rosa and Glen Sannox.

The ascent of Goatfell is the most popular and is well sign-posted near the golf course beside the road at the northern end of Brodick's esplanade. There is also a car park close by, and on the opposite side of the road, at the start of the track at the mountain's foot. This route is well signed "Goatfell" and the track takes an easy upwards line through banks of rhododendrons. A road is crossed and in the woods above the track is replaced by a hill path which emerges from the trees at a gated fence. Here the immediate view is of the blunt conical prow of Goatfell's southern ridge. The peak looks deceptively close but the illusion is quickly dispelled as the path, spurning a frontal assault, climbs more gradually to an eastern ridge. Looking up to the face of the upper mountain an erosion scar provides clear evidence of the problems confronted by the National Trust in their attempts to stabilise this populous mountain highway. The final tussle through the scattered upper blocks of the final pyramid lifts the newer path to the boulder strewn summit, with its triangulation pillar and indicator. However, to truly claim the highest point requires that Corbetteers surmount a large granite block adjacent to the trig point.

The views are far ranging to both the sea and the interior of the island, with the dramatic plunge to Glen Rosa on the western flank emphasising the airy height. The broad sweep of Brodick Bay far below further adds to the illusion of standing atop the tower of a castle of the skies.

Tempted by the well defined pathway along the ridge a little spice can be given to the day's expedition by crossing Stacach's several tors of jumbled blocks to attain the crowning rock of North Goat Fell. Those of a more pedestrian inclination should look for the gritty path which drops to the western side of the second group of piled blocks astride the ridge. This path's narrow band climbs back to a col, replete with cairn, at the foot of the steep grassed banks of North Goat Fell. From the cairn immediately north of this peak's summit rocks descent to the col at the head of Glen Rosa is often an option favoured by those seeking an alternative return to Brodick. Another return can be made after a traverse to Mullach Buidhe, with descent by an eastern ridge to Corrie for the bus, or walk back along the coast road.

The bus service to the northern end of the island opens up the prospect of a longer traverse of the Goatfell ridge. Ascent by way of the Glen Sannox cart track and the exposed scrambles of Cioch na h-Oighe is the precursor of the high level crossing of Mullach Buidhe, and the Stacach ridge to Goatfell. Return to Brodick by the tourist path provides an easier relaxing descent at day's end.

Taking the bus can also be a help to those who chose to enjoy the mountains' grandeur at a more leisurely pace. They too will ask to be set down at Sannox. The route starting at the northern end of the village (sign Glen Sannox cart track) follows a stream up past the old barytes mine working. As the day progresses hikers will relish the walk through the wild amphitheatres first in the head of Glen Sannox and then across the col in the upper reaches of Glen Rosa, for this must rank as one of the finest paths that Arran has to offer. Perhaps one dare even suggest it rates as one of Scotland's best!

Another popular hill day is the traverse of the heights from Beinn Nuis to Caisteal Abhail with sport to be had at the centre of this mountain spine on the summit block of A' Chir and the traverse of its "bad step". Again the more pedestrian may avoid these difficulties by a traverse on the western flank of this peak. Cir Mhor is an airy citadel reached without undue effort from the col to the south-west, and Caisteal Abhail with its blocks provides another fine viewpoint into the rocky hollow of upper Glen Sannox, with views to the lacerated face of Cir Mhor and across to Goatfell and distant Holy Isle.

Descent of Caisteal Abhail's ridge to Suidhe Fhearghas is not for the inexperienced as it involves contesting the hiatus known as "The Witch's Step" which on exit to the east is a climb of "difficult" standard. Once in the gap it is possible to exit by the head of a steep rake on its northern side. Descend approximately 30ft and look for a series of diagonal turfed ledges which climb back to the ridge a short distance north-west of the rocky top of Ceum na Caillich.

Caisteal Abhail is also known as "The Sleeping Warrior" and as such is sign-posted near the distillery at Lochranza. A route favoured by those staying at the hostel, its path climbs by way of the deeply incised Gleann Easan Biorach to tiny Loch na Davie at the foot of the mountain's Creag Dubh ridge. Traverse of several of the peaks southwards to Beinn Tarsuinn will require a retracement of steps along the ridge, or steep descent westwards into the wild upper reaches of Glen Iorsa. If contemplating a lengthy expedition be aware of the distance to be travelled in this untracked country to regain the watershed at the head of Gleann Easan Biorach, and the return footpath which lies beyond.

A similar secretive path starts from the bridge at the foot of Glen Catacol and pushes through a portal of steep sided mountains. This route leads to a watershed and the un-pathed shores of the isolated waters of Loch Tanna. Above Glen Catacol stands the distinctive hump of Meall nan Damh which gives a short stiff ascent to a fine belvedere noted for its seaward views.

Several mountaineers now direct their footsteps to another of these western peaks, and in this neighbourhood a "Graham", Beinn Bharrain, is now attracting more attention than it once did. A track from Pirnmill Post Office leads to open ground along the Allt Gobhlach, and a tributary which rises in the recess of Coire Roinn. There are some entertaining scrambles to be had on the ridge to the east of the hollow though the less adventurous may opt for the ridge nearest the sea for the ascent. The bare summit ridge curves in a lazy arc to the crown of the mountain and around Glas Choirein to Beinn Bhreac. It is worth extending the walk northwards to descend by the ridge towards the col before Meall Bhig, to drop to the hollow of Fhionn Lochan to pick up the path down to Mid Thundergay. The views across Kilbrannan Sound to the Mull of Kintyre and glimpses of the Paps of Jura compliment those to the secretive Loch Tanna with its backdrop of the high ridge-line between Beinn Nuis and Caisteal Abhail. Chose a good day of spring or autumn as the mountain assuredly deserves greater acclaim.

As a microcosm Arran's universe has other attractions. One, its own satellite, Holy Isle, is subject to the attention of certain hill-walkers for it possesses a peak of the Marilyn genre, Mullach Mor. Lamlash obligingly provides the ferry and walkers the opportunity to traverse the island's backbone. A return by the shore path from its southern light may well add to the enjoyment of the walk, with a visit to the Buddist monastery and gardens completing a day of interest.

A more recent attempt to cater for the pedestrian visitor is the promotion of The Coastal Way, a route which, as the name implies, follows the coast whenever possible. This is set out in a small booklet with accompanying map, and is based upon a seven day walking tour. Each day's itinerary is between 12km and 19km (8 - 12 miles in old numbers). One of the sections is that which hugs the shore between North Sannox and Lochranza looking across the sound to neighbouring Bute and a frieze of hills around the head of Loch Fyne and Loch Long. There is interest here as the discovery of coal near the Cock of Arran made the production of salt from the evaporation of sea-water feasible. Sadly the process lasted but a short time and the ruins of Duchess Anne's Salt Pan is all that is left as testament to the islanders' enterprise. Nearer to Lochranza lies the curiously named Hutton's Unconformity where the age of the earth was first determined.

Castles, caves, standing stones, old forts and archaeological remains add interest to the circuit. Elsewhere the route takes several turns inland in order to provide an off-road passage. Judicious use of the bus services enables the route to be done in sections of one's own chosing, and as a means of looking at, and planning ideas for walks in the coastal situations the booklet and map is a useful addition to the walker's rucksack. As with much else on Arran the impression is given that the whole point of venturing across to the island is to enjoy oneself - from shore to summit there is something for everyone.