By Irvine Butterfield

For further information see the Walkingwild website at: www.walkingwild.co.uk.

I still possess an old 1” Ordnance Survey map Sheet 45 Sound of Mull which reminds me of the first time I ever Crossed the Corran Ferry and ventured west of Loch Linnhe. My one abiding memory of that attempt to reach “the most westerly point of the British mainland” was of the profusion of rhododendrons near Glenborrodale and the line of grass which marked the centre of the rough metalled road beyond Salen. At that time the road beyond the River Shiel at Acharacle only continued as far as an old pier at Kinlochmoidart. This too added to the impression that here all roads led to nowhere in particular. In those days the journey to the lighthouse at the Point of Ardnamurchan was regarded as an pointless adventure only for the hardiest of vehicles driven by the foolhardy. Road improvements and the completion of the road link between the head of Loch Moidart and Lochailort was later to provide an easier entrance to the little known peninsula of Ardnamurchan. Even so it still retains something of its old romance as a hidden and unfrequented corner.

This newer route enters the district by the bridge across the River Shiel to bring you to the scattered homesteads of Acharacle, a short climb through woods, and the run down to the junction with the Corran Ferry road at Salen Hotel on Loch Sunart. This short length of road could be said to mark the eastern bounds of Ardnamurchan.

Possessing but five summits in excess of 1000ft, Ardnamurchan is still much neglected by the mountaineer or hill-walker but closer acquaintance will reward those of a pioneering spirit. Writing in the early 1930's at a time when the outdoor movement first began to seek out the country's remoter corners Arthur Gardner described the most westerly of these peaks, Beinn na Seilg (1123ft/342m), as “the indispensable expedition from Kilchoan”. He urged that the short ascent should not be hurried and though only of modest height above the sea described it as a “Real mountain, with fine rock scenery and a real mountain view”. Gardner goes on to enthuse that the rock is the same gabbro which fashioned the Cuillin on Skye and though the hill was said to lack the pinnacled drama of its higher brethren he was pleased to discover that its northern peak was terminated by crags which might provide short interesting climbs.

Gardner does not state his route but prospect of an ascent is an opportunity not to be missed if time in the area permits. It seems certain that the approach taken would be that from Kilchoan on the narrow road to Ormsaigmore to gain access to the low ridge of Druim na Gearr Leacainn above its scattered crofts. Crossing the ridge keep to the north of Lochain Ghleann Locha's twin lochs and seek out the easier eastern slopes leading directly to the mountain's distinctive cap. This peak has the distinction of being the most westerly summit above 1000ft on the British mainland and its views are superb by any standard.

On a clear day the seaward vistas are extensive with glimpses of the Small Isles, with Rum and Skye to the north-west. A panorama of the western seaboard embraces sightings of distant Torridon and Kintail peaks, and along the trench of Loch Sunart to the hills of Moidart, Morvern and Mull. If the visibility be good, Coll and Tiree anchored in the sound, draw the eye westwards in search of the low frieze of the Outer Hebrides on the horizon. The crags along the western face of the northern top noted by Gardner will be found to be about 100 - 150ft high and there are now several short rock-climbs to the hill's credit.

This whole area is geologically interesting as it is said that the last volcanic activity took place a little to the north of Kilchoan. Unless expert in these matters it would be difficult to pick out the remains of the crater rim of the last active volcano though a look at the map rather suggests the ring of small rugged hills surrounding the basin of the Allt Uamha na Muice may be a good place to look. Idly flicking the pages of an old guide my observations are confirmed - the area is in fact a world renowned demonstration area and if able to mount a small hump between Achnaha and Glendrain the surrounded gabbro hills show this to be the centre of the caldera. Meall nan Con (1433ft/437m) one of the small peaks on the outer rim provides sporting scrambles on its small 50-100ft crags, and there may be other short climbs on the craggier knolls worthy of inspection.

A peak which shares a similar outlook to that of Beinn na Seilg is Ben Hiant (1731ft/528m) whose cragged coronet overshadows the road which hereabouts skirts the northern base of the hill before its return to the coast at Kilchoan. At the point of turn to the north there is a small car park from which a short track leads to an old graveyard at Cladh Chiarain beside the strand of Camus nan Geall. Above the western shore of the bay grass terraces ease the clamber towards the stubby east ridge of Ben Hiant, immediately below the summit knot. A grassy rake cuts across the fractured eastern face to emerge just below the triangulation pillar. However, tread cautiously as this lies on a slope and can be greasy. To outflank these minor crags look to the left and keep to the westwards thrust of the grassy ridge before turning north to tackle the tumbles of the final hummock.

Those seeking a shorter route to this belvedere might squeeze a car into the side of the road near the head of the climb above Camus nan Geall. Here look for an old path which outflanks fringing outcrops and thence follow a stream up towards the arm of the eastern ridge.

If ascending from a base at Kilchoan follow the Salen road to the Allt Choire Mhuilinn. Here the stream is bridged by a track which can be followed to an old pathway which cuts across the northern side of the hill close by the upper reaches of a plantation. Beyond this point use a stream as guide to the eastern ridge of the mountain for the final clamber to the summit.

The other two 1000ft peaks lie to the east and enjoy views along the inner reaches of Loch Sunart, here dominated by Beinn Resipol. Ben Laga (1679ft/512m) is well defended by plantations which crowd in upon the road and its rugged slopes are best attempted from the path which climbs from Laga to the loch of the same name. To the north-west of its waters the crumpled crown of Meall nan Each (1607ft/690m) looks north to Kentra Bay and the fretted coastline about Loch Moidart and Loch nan Uamh. At one time the path through these hills from Acharacle to Glenborrodale, and Laga would have echoed to the voice of those travelling between the townships. Now conversation may well be that of hill-walkers intent on adding another “Marilyn” to their tally of tops.

Walkers seeking out the remoter coves and bays might find pleasure in exploring the northern coastline between Acharacle and Ockle where tracks and paths provide easy passage through the rough ground. Ockle may also be reached by a road coming in from the south and west. Much of this area was cleared for sheep in the 1800's - a familiar tale of cruel expulsion found elsewhere in the Highlands. The then proprietor, Sir James Miles Riddell Bart, having encouraged his tenants to build new houses, waited but two years before ejecting the 16 occupants of Swordle without compensation. Not one owed rent. Moreover, they had fulfilled their contracts to build substantial dwellings at a personal cost of some £50 each, a considerable sum in those days. Even as late as the 1920's some of the houses were still intact.

The people were removed to the rougher ground of bog and sand at Portcuairk and Sanna. Others on the holdings of Mingary and around Ben Hiant had been similarly treated. Look carefully at the fertile green terraces below Ben Hiant and you may still see the ruins of Bourblaige.

It is to be expected that a visit to Ardnamurchan's lighthouse is the prime objective on any visit to the district. This is better enhanced by a short coastal walk along the broken headlands from the road end at Portuairk. Such a walk can be extended by a start from the car park at Sanna set above dunes of fine white shell sand.

Designed by Alan Stevenson, father of Robert Louis Stevenson, the lighthouse was built in 1846 by a Robert Hume of Gatehouse-of-Fleet at a cost of £13,738. Pink granite from North Bay quarry in the Ross of Mull was carefully shaped to provide the blocks for the tower which stands some 114ft high. The revolving light, first displayed in 1859, is of 27,000 candle power and flashes every 30 seconds. For its visitors this marks the end of a special journey of discovery but attracted like moths to a flame there is light in the eyes of many return who return to the delights of this road to nowhere.

All photos by Irvine Butterfield