The Mountaineering Council of Scotland
SportScotland

EXPEDITION GRANTS
RESEARCH INFORMATION

The following organisations etc. provide information for expeditions and mountaineers who are contemplating a trip to the greater ranges.

 1   SPECIALIST INFORMATION

The Expedition Advisory Centre (1 Kensington Gore, London, SW7 2AR, Tel. 0171 581 2057) which is based at the Royal Geographical Society, produces a wide range of publications and runs lectures and seminars. They can produce tailor-made information packs for different mountain areas and keep a library of expedition reports which is held in the RGS Map Room (from where copies of maps are also available).
The British Mountaineering Council also has a range of information sheets covering mountain areas which contain information on permits etc. which are held at their offices in Manchester (address below)

 2     MOUNTAINEERING LIBRARIES

The most comprehensive collection of mountaineering books is held at the Alpine Club Library. The club also has a computerised Himalayan index from which, for a small charge, all known references to a given peak can be obtained (55 Charlotte Rd, London EC2A 3QT, Tel. 0171 613 0755: check with the librarian for opening times etc.). The most useful general references are the Alpine Journal, American Alpine Journal and the Himalayan Journal. Other collections exist at:
Fell and Rock Climbing Club Library (Lancaster University Library)
Yorkshire Ramblers Club Library (Leeds Central Library)
Rucksack Club Library (Manchester Central Library)
Alan Rouse Memorial Library (Sheffield City Library)
Graham Brown Memorial Library (Scottish National Library, Edinburgh)
Scottish Mountaineering Club Library (SMC members only)
Audery Salkeld private collection (7 Linden Rd. Clevedon, Avon)

 3     GUIDES AND MAPS

Specific and general guidebooks to even remote areas are available from Cordee (Tel. 01533 543 579), West Col (Tel. 01491 681284) or Cicerone Press (Tel. 015395 62069).
Good map shops include Edward Stanford (12-14 Long Acre, London, WC2 9LP, Tel. 071 836 1321) and The Map Shop (15 High St, Upton on Severn, Worcs,WR8 0HJ) which both operate mail order service.

 4     GRANTS

The two main bodies providing financial support for mountaineering expeditions are The Mount Everest Foundation and The BMC. There are also several other awards and funds details of which can be found in the "Directory of Grant Giving organisations" produced by The Expedition Advisory Centre. Below are brief details of the main awards.

  • The Mount Everest Foundation:
    Created primarily to support and encourage exploration of mountain regions, particularly little explored or formerly inaccessible areas; expeditions attempting faces, ridges and summits by first ascents or by established routes in more challenging conditions; as well as primarily scientific expeditions. Information and application forms are available from the Honorary Secretary (W.H. Ruthven, Gowrie, Cardwell Close, Warton, Preston, PR4 1SH. Tel. 01772 635 346).
  • The British Mountaineering Council:
    The international Committee of the BMC provides support for expeditions exploring remote mountain areas or making first British ascents or ascents of technically demanding objectives in the greater ranges, by obtaining and awarding Sports Council grants and/or giving an expedition approved status. Their criteria are similar to those of the MEF. Application forms for BMC grant are available from the MEF secretary. Information regarding BMC grants is available from the BMC National Officer ( BMC, Crawford House, Precinct Centre, Booth St. East, Manchester, M13 9RZ. Tel. 0161 273 5835 ).
  • Nick Estcourt Award:
    For teams attempting difficult routes. (secretary, 24, Grange Rd, Bowden Cheshire, WA14 3EE).
  • Alison Chadwick Memorial Fund:
    Gives grants to women climbers (C/O The MEF Honorary Secretary)
  • Mick Burke Award:
    Presented to film makers (BBC Natural History Unit, Whiteladies Rd, Bristol 8).
  • Sang Award:
    For Scottish expeditions (Scottish Mountaineering Club, Hon. Sec. Mr JRR Fowler, 4 Doune Ter. Edinburgh, EH3 6DY. Tel. 0131 226 4055).
  • Liam Elliot Memorial Award:
    Gives grants to young Scottish Expeditions (C/O Hamish Irvine, Feoran, Graig na Gower Avenue, Aviemore PU22 1RW).

 5   MEDICAL

The UIAA Mountain Medical Centre produce a range of excellent information sheets covering problems concerned with acclimatisation, cold injury etc. (C/O Dr Charles Clarke, Saint Bartholemews Hospital, 38 Little Britain, London, EC1A 7BE). Information on immunisation is available from the London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine as well as several commercial companies including MASTA (PO Box 14, Gosport, Hampshire, PO12 3SJ)

 6     INSURANCE

A full range of mountaineering and travel insurance is available to MCofS and BMC individual members and members of affiliated clubs. The policies include cover for world-wide, extended period and expedition cover; equipment, travel and personal cover. Contact the MCofS National Officer or the BMC Insurance Services Ltd. direct for information.

 7     FREIGHT SERVICES

Various airlines and commercial companies offer freight services. One company specialising in expedition needs is Expedition Freight, Pant-y-Cafn, Llenberis, Gwynedd LL55 4UW, Tel. 01286 872 454.

How to Apply UIAA Mountain Codes

The Royal Geographical Society
The British Mountaineering Council
The Mount Everest Foundation
The Alpine Club
UIAA Mountain Medical Centre
London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine
MASTA


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