A cool but dry spell in late September after a wet summer found us in the well-scrubbed C.I.C. in the wake of a work party. The forecast was for rain spreading from the northwest later in the day, so at first light I was glad to see the cliff clear and dry. By the time the kettle had boiled, a dark black cloud had come from nowhere and descended to the level of the hut. A raven hopped about the threshold croaking ominously.

Carn Dearg Butress

Carn Dearg Butress

Pitch 2

"Another test of our resolve." Greg remarked as we made our way through the dank gloominess to the foot of Carn Dearg Buttress.

Greg and I had started climbing together as young loons on the Aberdeen sea cliffs in the mid sixties. I was delighted when he agreed to help me finish this project. We had been here a month before when water was streaming down every line of drainage on the crag. On that occasion we had consoled ourselves with the fast drying Strident Edge on the Trident Buttresses. Prior to this, on visits when Centurion had been a victim of its own popularity, I had enjoyed Minus One direct and Minus Two left hand. All of these are fine routes, which I may have neglected had I not signed up for this project.

The first pitch up a steep cracked wall was cold clammy and a bit of a rude awakening on a chilly morning. The huge stepped corner looms above it, as fine a piece of rock architecture as you will find anywhere. Fortunately, it has just enough accommodating cracks to make it accessible to mere mortals. Jimmy Marshall was bold enough to discover this but unfortunately the rest of the route was snatched by the away team. I wonder if loose talk in some pub betrayed him...………….

Gregg on Pitch 2

Pitch 3

Raymond on Middle Section

I had resolved to climb the corner in a less hasty and insecure manner than on a previous encounter and was engrossed in arranging protection for the last few moves (spoilt for choice with modern gadgets) when Greg shouted up "The sun's out". From that moment the holds kept appearing, dry and clean cut, the mists dispersed and we relished every move.

By stretching the ropes we reached the Route Two traverse in two fine pitches from the top of the crux: the first traversing out of the corner into the sun before slanting up and across the massive left wall with spectacular exposure; the second a delightful romp up accommodating grooves and bulges with the sun on your back.

I have always found the pitch through the impressive roofs which cap Carn Dearg buttress daunting. It was no less so seconding: a succession of improbable crab- wise moves on hanging slabs culminating in a blind lay away round a bulge. What must Bob Downes have felt making that crucial move for the first time in 1956? Even today it is still the only way through the upper overhangs. The spiky arete above succumbed to a wild joyful swing and the route ended abruptly on Ledge route.

Gregg on Upper Wall

Upper Wall

Ben Ankers on top pitch.

The line of the crag, Centurion's reputation loses nothing with time and familiarity. It is still one of the most satisfying days out on rock in the country.

If you find the corner too wet or there is a queue for the route, use the opportunity to discover some of the equally good, neglected routes on the Ben. Centurion will always be there and one day it will repay your patience.