A ghost from the past soared above on unbending wings and melted again into the mists of time. Nature's golden messenger serenely unveiled a link back into history. Early mountaineering pioneers, probably G R Symmers and W A Ewan, had christened many of Lochnagar's "steep frowning glories". Eagle Ridge, which plunges to earth in a crash of raw granite, reflects perfectly Lord Byron's evocative verse "the crags they are wild and majestic, the steep, frowning glories of dark Lochnagar". Within the very name of Eagle Ridge, lies something uniquely Scottish. An enigmatic happening that stirs the soul of every climber. The name encourages a romantic bravery and blind faith in that power which drives climbers to see what lies beyond.

The first direct ascent by J H B Bell and Miss Nancy Forsyth, back in 1941, was preceded by some stoical route finding by W S Scroggie and J G Ferguson. Syd and John, founders of the Corrie Club, had cycled from Dundee to Clova, crossed the Chapel Mounth and then traipsed up to North East Corrie, where they camped. Some supplies had been sent over to Jock Robertson at the Spittal of Glen Muick in advance. Soaked to the skin, in driving rain and mist, they took on Eagle Ridge. In Stocking soles and with a rope more akin to a washing line, they surmounted the first tower; quite an achievement in the prevailing conditions. Syd had battered an ice-peg into a crack just below the sentry box and as he said "had discovered one of the most lonely places in the world". The ice-peg was still there a few years ago, but today, has sadly gone.

Ancient pegs and 'tat' are always fascinating to find and it is only when these, once new, pieces of equipment become unreliably rusty and tattered, do we have some empathy for them. Jim and Patricia Bell returned in 1948 to attempt the climb without "artificial aid", (Jim had placed his right foot on the peg at the crux during the first ascent in 1941). This they duly did, only to report that the crucial handhold moved very slightly. Today, I can truly say that it wriggles around a bit!

Many things have probably changed since the pioneering era. Jim Bell was very particular about how many pegs were used on a climb and he limited himself to one on Eagle Ridge. This peg, lost by the Corrie Club lads, was found on the climb and tapped into place with a lump of granite. He later said that they "had not defaced a perfect climb by leaving any signs of mechanisation upon it". Today, the hardware left in-situ consists of five pegs, two 'Friends' and one 'wire'. I think these are more of a testament to the many epic winter ascents that scratch their way up the ridge. A huge spike, usually used as a belay below the tower, has collapsed and is teetering on the edge of the 'inset corner slab'. Grassy ledges, although still in profusion either side of the ridge, are now levelled down to the bare grit. Many good holds have suffered under the attack from crampons and ice tools. In terms of prestige, the Queen of Lochnagar's winter routes has superseded the classic rock route. Nevertheless, sticky rock shoes and ball-bearing-like damp granite grit, can give the climbing an extra 'ungradeable' dimension.

The Eagle that had appeared for us briefly above the summer crux so many years ago, was replaced today by two ravens and a peregrine battling for supremacy over the corrie lip. Their unnerving calls echoed around the rocks, threatening to unbalance a gawping and timorous soul. By comparison, Syd Scroggie had started his venture on Lochnagar to the drone of German bombers! The orchestra would not be complete without the constant booming of the wind deep down in Douglas Gibson Gully, counter pointed by the sweet chirp of the snow bunting. On another occasion we had climbed the ridge to the accompaniment of bagpipes. The piper was striding back and forth on the brink of Black Spout Buttress. Skirling away there in full highland dress, his kilt wafting around in the wind, in total disrespect to the drop below him. Maybe we should have booked him up for the 'Millennium Climb'?

If you want to learn a bit about mantleshelving, then climb Eagle Ridge. A gymnastic ability to put one's foot firmly in the mouth does help, and try to trust those sloping, holdless shelves, especially on the crux. During early summer, as we found out to our cost on one occasion, the bergschrund at the start of the route can be very deep and awkward to cross and may well end up as the crux pitch!

"Safe", a shout from Russell above, abruptly halted my meandering memory and decrepit rack of 'pearls of wisdom'. Time to climb. Now where did I put those stocking soles?