The Mountaineering Council of Scotland
© A Millennium celebration by the MCofS

Completed Ascents

Saturday 19th August 2000

1936 climb - Agags Groove

grade - VD
Buachaille Etive Mor,
Glen Coe
1st ascentionists / 1st Free ascentionists
J F Hamilton, A Anderson & A C D Small
Guidebook
Glen Coe P71
The article & photos by
Bob Railton and Bill MacDonald
The Millennium Climbers were
Bob Railton and Bill MacDonald
Members of Forfar & District Hill Walking Club
 

The steep curve of Agag's Groove splitting Rannoch Wall on Buachaille Etive Mor is clearly visible from the track leading up to Curved Ridge, and as it gets closer the feeling of something special begins to form.

Although graded as "V. Diff", its situation on the wall, and the feeling of exposure, especially on the upper stages, creates the impression of a route of a much higher grade.

As this is regarded as one of the trade routes on the face it pays dividends to get an early start before the hordes arrive. This way it will ensure maximum enjoyment on this excellent route.

From below, the groove seems to rear up and is rather intimidaing, but once on the rock the holds are plentiful and the climbing is exhilerating with plenty of scope for runners. The hardest technical moves are on the first pitch, about 80ft up, where a short, steep corner poses a few problems before the first block belay is reached.

The next 100ft provides climbing of a moderate grading with ample opportunity to enjoy the situation whilst quickly gaining vertical height on the face.

Another good block provides an excellent belay as the next problem is tackled. This is regarded by many as the crux of the route and takes the form of a short vertical nose of rock blocking off any view of the face above. After the first move up, a good jug hold is reached and then round the nose the climbing for the next 80ft is sheer pleasure with an abundance of good holds and tremendous exposure.

The final pitch of approximaely 70 feet is more of the same although towards the top extra care is required as the rock is more shattered in the last few feet.

The route now follows Crowberry Ridge to the tower, down a short chimney, and then a scramble into the gap.

To complete the climb and "top out" the short haul to the summit is well worth the effort. Very few "V. Diffs" can compare with Agag's continuous steepness and exposure, providing an exciting and satisfying route.

completed routes

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