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| © A Millennium celebration by the MCofS |
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Saturday 19th August 2000 1936 climb - Agags Groovegrade - VDBuachaille Etive Mor,Glen Coe |
1st ascentionists / 1st Free ascentionists J F Hamilton, A Anderson & A C D Small Guidebook Glen Coe P71 The article & photos by Bob Railton and Bill MacDonald The Millennium Climbers were Bob Railton and Bill MacDonald Members of Forfar & District Hill Walking Club |
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Although graded as "V. Diff", its situation on the wall, and the feeling of exposure, especially on the upper stages, creates the impression of a route of a much higher grade. As this is regarded as one of the trade routes on the face it pays dividends to get an early start before the hordes arrive. This way it will ensure maximum enjoyment on this excellent route. From below, the groove seems to rear up and is rather intimidaing, but once on the rock the holds are plentiful and the climbing is exhilerating with plenty of scope for runners. The hardest technical moves are on the first pitch, about 80ft up, where a short, steep corner poses a few problems before the first block belay is reached. The next 100ft provides climbing of a moderate grading with ample opportunity to enjoy the situation whilst quickly gaining vertical height on the face.
The final pitch of approximaely 70 feet is more of the same although The route now follows Crowberry Ridge to the tower, down a short chimney, and then a scramble into the gap. To complete the climb and "top out" the short haul to the summit is well worth the effort. Very few "V. Diffs" can compare with Agag's continuous steepness and exposure, providing an exciting and satisfying route. |
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