I'd tried to call Dave the previous night as planned. As planned, now there's a joke. Planning, as you will find out came low down in the order of priority for this trip, but somehow it never really mattered. He'd been off on some jaunt somewhere, the Lakes I think this time, but to be honest I loose track of where he is. I have some sympathy for his wife Jules. Brilliant shafts of sunlight streamed through the bedroom curtains, instinctively I reached for the telephone and dialled. I heard the phone ring ... and ring ... and ..
"Hello"
"Oh hello Julie is Dave about?"
"Yeah hang on a minute"

I could tell from his voice that he was not long awake. I could tell from the muffled noises coming from next to him that he was still in bed. It was only then that I noticed the time.
"Hullo"
"Sorry David, but are we still on for 'Crowberry' then?"
"Yeah. Oh and by the way guess what"
"I know - first ascent - May 1900 - seen the weather"

He's like me you see. If he's not out climbing he's thinking about it, or he's got his head stuffed in some book reading about it. Good lad, done your homework. The weather was okay-ish, not brilliant but we didn't care. It was a day out of the office and that was good enough for me. Besides I've been trying to do this route for the best part of eighteen months. I tried to explain about the Millennium climbs, but he didn't listen. Great planning don't you think to do a route on the centenary of its first ascent and then ... Then what he asked? Well write about it of course, get it in a book all about climbs of the last hundred years. Our route from 1900 done in 2000. Perfect symmetry. I tried to persuade him that it was all part of the great master plan, and that it was all planned well in advance but he saw right through it. He knew.

What really happened is that I forgot all about the Millennium climb until I got a copy of "Scottish Mountaineer" through the letterbox. Then I read it, then I remembered, then I saw the date, then I reacted.

And that is what climbing is all about for me. Not planned or scripted but spur of the moment, that's when it's at its best.

When we met, it was all a guddle. He'd been to the dentist, or the doctors, so we were late leaving Edinburgh. I'd had to go to work to pick up my gear; I think I'd got everything. As we drove we talked and joked and the journey went by.

Until we pulled over the Rannoch Moor and Buachaille Etive Mor came into sight. When I say came into sight, I use the term loosely. We couldn't quite see it because of this huge great grey cloud that was enveloping it. Now I know you'll sympathise with us at this point 'cos I know that you, like us, will have made that trip, and you will know what I'm on about. How is it you leave Edinburgh (or Dundee or Stirling or anywhere except Glasgow) in wonderful sunshine and drive up in beautiful conditions and get to Tyndrum, and really get excited, only to get to the Moor to be met with a wall of water. We both laughed, we knew what we had to do today; this was our last chance of doing this route in May.
"You know it's only Severe, three stars mind and a pukka route"
"Yeah, and by the way you're leading the crux"
I'd forgoten about that.

It is still "a crux to fall off with ease" said the guidebook. How did I know that Dave will have read that description and, even as we drive in the rain, will be plotting to send me up it. But I'm smarter than he is, been at it longer; know all the dodges and some.

I don't know why I'm surprised at how few cars there are in the Lagangarbh car park. As we sort out a bit of kit I play my trump card. "Bugger, forgot me rock boots"
"The Abraham's never wore rock boots ya wimp"
"Okay, I know, but how about you taking pity on me for once, being a decent chap and offering to lead that horrible sloping crux, with no gear, in the wet and save me from falling off and making a complete arse of myself"

You know I never actually said that, but I know you're with me on that one. I suspected he was not to be decent today; in cahoots with the weather.

I enjoyed the walk up to the route; it was a pleasure to be up this way without all the winter gear, so long since I'd been there in summer. And as we walked and chatted, and life was good and the rain stopped.

The Rannoch Wall loomed overhead the great cleave of Agag's Groove above, obvious and inviting, but not for today. Our route lay further to the right and up a moderate chimney. Moderate my arse! I backed off, cursed, went round the corner, found an inviting line, and sent Dave on his way. Waltzed it! Me, well I swore and I puffed but I got up, and bloody-well enjoyed it too. The next bit was even better, grand clean rock, huge holds everywhere, more gear than you could dream of, and some. But do you know what the best bit was? I finished on Abraham's Ledge, found a lovely thread belay low down, tied on, double tightened the karabiners, hauled Dave up, and got my camera ready for his inevitable 'whipper' of a fall on the crux move.

Waltzed it! even had the nerve to balance on the crux slopers as I fiddled with the camera to get some shots for the article (like the good Dr. Inglis Clark I was similarly too close to the action so a headless photograph resulted, things still don't change !!)

The rope came tight. As I watched the it peel away from me the nausea spread, I could see the rope snaking across the wall 'sans' protection, and I could see the abyss, above which I would soon be trembling. At least I had my prussick loops with me, never leave home without them. Which, today was true, didn't leave home without them, just didn't remember to lift them from the boot of the car ... planning.

I'm from the era that the leader doesn't fall off. Shame I'm not leading this pitch - as I pictured slipping from the wall to huge guffaws above. I set off quickly, became engrossed in the pitch, and it was just unbelievably good. I hadn't climbed for so long and certainly not on a big mountain route like this. Sure I'd done the route before but this was all new. New and yet so familiar - smells, feel, touch, texture, sight and sound. Combining to build climbing.
"What did you think of that?"
"Good effort mate, nice lead. Oh and thanks for the protection ya ****"
"Go on ya fat **** and get up this next bit, looks good"

And you know it was.

The Hardest Climb in the area? …… not for you maybe, but we enjoyed it.