The Mountaineering Council of Scotland

Summit Safety and Ben Nevis Cairns

The MCofS seeks a resolution

As described in the article about The Nevis Partnership by Kevin Howett in issue 23 of The Scottish Mountaineer, The Nevis Strategy includes a proposal for waymarking on Ben Nevis as an aid to navigation across the summit plateau. This issue was the subject of widespread discussion in the late 1990's after the Lochaber Mountain Rescue Team established two permanent poles to aid mountaineers following the usual descent navigation bearings. Climbers subsequently cut down the poles; an indication of the differences of opinion in the mountaineering world about safety, mountaineering ethos and conservation on our most important mountain.

Drawing ofNevis Panorama by Shearer, 1895 - courtesy of SMCAfter the 1997 AGM discussions in which accident statistics showed that solo climbing and starting late on Tower Ridge were greater hazards to mountaineers on Ben Nevis than descent issues, the MCofS took the stance that the poles were counterproductive from a safety perspective and we could not support them being reinstated: we would maintain the mountaineering ethos of self-reliance and tackle the subject of safety by any educational means possible.

During the Nevis Working Party discussions that formulated the Nevis Strategy the subject of waymarking on Ben Nevis became the concern of a wider group of people including the local communities who derive tourism benefits from visitors (many of whom are not experienced mountaineers). The guidance that was formulated may be found in the Section of the Nevis Strategy entitled Mountain Management under proposal C1c: -
“As the UK's highest mountain and a tourist icon, Ben Nevis should be cared for in an exemplary manner. There are major issues of degradation of the Summit and high plateau, including litter, fouling, cairns and memorials. Also, the Observatory ruins are un-cared for and attract wastes and litter. Fouling and gas cylinders around the CIC Hut cause concern. Ben Nevis presents exceptional circumstances, with many tourists, the highly publicised path, extreme weather conditions etc., contributing to accidents. The Ben requires some safety provision (e.g. emergency shelter, waymarking cairns), but that these should be kept to a minimum”.

Proposals include: -
“Limiting provision of waymarking cairns to a minimum number of strategic locations on the Summit section of the Ben Path (across Plateau), where required to assist less-experienced users in adverse conditions - details to be advised by the proposed Mountain Management Advisory Group”.

The above proposals have serious implications. The decisions involved will not be easy, there is no clear solution and there are many differing and strongly held views. There is now an active Mountain Management Sub Group of the Partnership and this group has taken on the task of this consultation to involve all interested parties in the creation of an integrated policy for the summit plateau of Ben Nevis and to avoid the previous situation of individuals taking unilateral action to add or remove cairns and markers as they see fit.

The MCofS Executive has again recently discussed the issue in light of the Nevis Partnership proposals progressing and taking account of all aspects of the management of the summit, safety and conservation issues, and have agreed a holding position (subject to any changes that may come from our members views during this consultation) as follows:
“Support the retention of the main summit cairn, summit shelter and Peace cairn; to maintain a line of natural cairns* at 100 metres intervals along the mountain track from the summit to the 1200 metre contour; and to remove all other signs, cairns and posts including the No.4 Gully marker and the abseil posts and main marker at the top of Coire Leis”.
*The cairns should be of natural construction with no cement or concrete.

Two of the many issues, which have been highlighted, are: -

  1. In excess of 100,000 people climb Ben Nevis every year. Many of these people are tourists making a “one-off” ascent because Ben Nevis is the highest mountain in the UK. Navigation on Ben Nevis in poor visibility can be difficult and many tourists do not have the necessary equipment or skills.
  2. Any cairns on the Ben Nevis plateau could cause accidents by encouraging people, who might otherwise have made the decision to turn back safely before reaching the summit, to continue and subsequently experience difficulty on more serious terrain or in deteriorating conditions.
The Summit, by D Gray

The MCofS wishes to gather views from all interested parties. Some of the decisions which have to be made are:-
What shape and construction should any cairns have?
Should the cairns be high enough to remain visible above the snow?
What should the frequency of any cairns be i.e. every 100 metres?
Where should any cairns be placed?
What should happen to the existing markers i.e. No. 4 Flag, Abseil Posts Sign?
Should there be a trial period and if so, for how many years?
If fatalities increase should the cairns be removed?
Should there be any cairns at all - has the case been made on safety grounds?

To help inform you of the issues we include details of accident statistics, a selection of photographs and have provided two opposing viewpoints which have been written by Alan Kimber and Keith Miller. The views expressed are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the MCofS current position on this issue.

Marking Time
By Alan Kimber
The Fallacy of Waymarking
By Keith Miller

Please send your comments to:
'Ben debate', MCofS, The Old Granary, West Mill Street, Perth, PH1 5QP. This article can also be viewed on the MCofS website at insert webpage address here and you may email your comments to bendebate@mountaineering-scotland.org.uk.


Safe compass bearings from Nevis summit.
Carn Dearg shelter to be removed

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