A Submission from the MCofS

1. Introduction
   The MCofS welcomes the opportunity to comment on the future management plan for the islands of St. Kilda. We feel this is particularly important just now, considering imminent changes in legislation regarding access through the Land Reform Bill currently being discussed in the Scottish Parliament.

   The MCofS wishes to see a management plan for the islands that embraces outdoor recreation, especially climbing, and recognises the importance of it both historically and as a legitimate modern-day activity.

2. The Historical Importance of Climbing on St. Kilda
   Although there is very little documented on the life of St. Kildans prior to a visit there by the writer Martin Martin ca.1697, what he recounted of their life and history certainly indicated a society built around climbing. The capturing of sea birds from the huge colonies, particularly the Gannets, was central to their existence, both for food and for trade. The islanders were even physiologically developed for a life involving climbing with prehensile divergent toes and especially strong ankles for barefoot climbing.

   Martin's accounts as well as those of other visitors before him (notably Donald Monro in 1549) and after (in the 1890's and early 1900's) give much evidence that climbing was important for more than just livelihood reasons.

   In a social context, courage and skill as cliff fowlers was highly regarded as a test of manhood. The social importance of The Mistress Stone is a good example. Equally, the importance of climbing and its effect on social activity is epitomised by several tales, one of which tells of 3 year old boys being encouraged to climb the outside walls of their houses in preparation for future climbing. This is the first instance that MCofS can find of sport-specific 'training' on artificial structures which many people would regard as a relatively modern innovation dating only from the 1960's, and one which we now take for granted with the development of indoor climbing walls all across the country. Another tale of the importance of an individual's prowess in climbing concerns the difficulty of climbing attained. Stac Biorach was reputedly the hardest of the stacks to climb and it was said that any man who failed to climb it did not get a wife!

   But more than this, there is evidence that the islanders relished climbing for its own sake. There is an account of an ascent of this Stac Biorach by Sir Robert Moray in 1698 which describes a climbing technique known as a 'dyno' – a dynamic movement involving an upwards jump. Describing climb characteristics in such detail indicates an appreciation of the climbing itself and not viewing it simply as a means to an end. Martin's description of the ascent of Stac Dona similarly goes into detail, describing a difficult move known as a 'mantleshelf'. This is a balance move where the whole body is pulled up, then stood onto one point – the particular described one being onto the climbers thumb. This section of the climb was known by the St. Kildans as 'The Thumb'. Such delicacy of description of parts of the climb would not be recounted unless there was greater significance to the climbing beyond necessity.

   Hence, historically, Scottish climbers can justifiably regard St Kilda as the birthplace of Scottish climbing. Indeed, this is compelling recorded evidence that it is the first example of recreational rock climbing in the UK!

   Modern day recreational (amateur) rock climbers started to visit the islands from 1883. Charles Barrington (who made the first ascent of the Eiger in The European Alps) visited at this time to compare the methods of climbing with those employed by local inhabitants in the alpine regions. Norman Heathcote, a Scottish Mountaineering Club member visited in 1890 with Barrington. They climbed Stac Biorach. The Lake District climber Bentley Beetham visited in 1907. Much later, the legendary Scottish climber Tom Patey visited as did Tom Weir and Doug Scott. In 1969 Richard Balharry, M Boyd, and C Welsh made ascents of various stacks.

   Latterly, the NTS warden Stuart Murray ascended various stacks. A team did the only other recent recorded routes in 1987, consisting of Pete Whillance and Chris Bonington, including the ascent of the UK's biggest sea cliff – Conachair, which was filmed for TV.

   We understand that since then there have been a few ascents (albeit without NTS 'permission') of some of the stacks, but that the NTS have continued to refuse permission, which the current by-law requires. MCofS know of at least 3 requests in recent years that have been denied.

   MCofS recommends that the NTS celebrate the historical importance and the cultural heritage of the climbing on the Islands of St Kilda.

3. Climbing and the Natural Heritage Interest
   There are many sites across the country where there is significant natural heritage interest protected by both Scottish, UK and EU legislation (The Wildlife and Countryside Act 1981; Sites of Special Scientific Interest, National Nature Reserves; the EU Habitats Directive; Special Areas of Conservation – habitat; Species Protection Areas – Birds). At many of these sites climbing and walking continue to be practiced and the two interests are not mutually exclusive. The key to their coexistence is that of management and education and restrictions being limited in terms of both time and area.
   1. Social Heritage
      The accounts from Martin Martin indicate that the St. Kildan inhabitant's farming of the bird colonies was sustainable, despite records that upwards of 22,000 gannets per year alone were taken by the families in the 1690's. Any assessment of modern disturbance should be measured against this past history; in other words it is likely to be minimal.

   2. Nesting Birds
      The Wildlife & Countryside Act protects all nesting birds, but especially those classified as Schedule 1 Species. The penalties for 'intentionally' disturbing these birds 'at, in or near the nest' are greater. Although many nest sites of such birds are found on cliffs that are of little interest to climbers, some nest on or near cliffs that are also important for climbing. When such sites are known about, climbers have made their own arrangements to notify other climbers to observe a 'voluntary ban' on climbing near the nests until after the nesting period in order that they do not infringe the law. This information is usually supplied by the authors of climbing guidebooks and was in the past usually done in Scotland without liaison with the RSPB, although the MCofS is increasingly working with RSPB (Scotland), Raptor Study Groups, and Police Wildlife Liaison Officers to agree bird-nesting information.

      Climbers are extremely good at complying with such information. In England and Wales, the British Mountaineering Council has made more formal arrangements with the RSPB and notification of nesting sites which are located on climbing sites are updated on an annual basis and made public. Climbers have respected such bans in almost all circumstances and have a proven record.

      In Scotland, the MCofS approached RSPB (Scotland) some years ago to instigate a similar system but RSPB felt that there was no need as climbers and birds coexist and they felt climbers posed no threat. They also did not wish to make nesting site information public. We did agree to produce an 'Information Sheet' on the subject and this was published in 1996 – "Climbers and Nesting Birds" – which gives general advice about the law and about bird behaviour to allow climbers to make their own judgement.

      This system of voluntary restrictions is proven and works extremely well across the country at sites with large nesting colonies as well as individual nesting birds (e.g. Mingulay, Pabbay, Berneray, Sandray, Aberdeen seacliffs, Hoy and other Northern Isles venues, Galloway and the South West Scottish coastline cliffs and the sea cliffs in the South East of Scotland. In England a classic example is found on Lundy Island in the Bristol Channel and the disturbance is minimal and acceptable. On Lundy, there are thousands of visiting climbers every year (all year) enjoying thousands of recorded climbs. Voluntary restrictions on certain crags work extremely well and everyone adheres to them. Lundy is a perfect example of a working voluntary system.

      On St. Kilda there are very large colonies of birds, some of which are schedule 1 species, for which the islands have gained World Heritage Status. These colonies present a substantial deterrent to any climbing as the rocks are usually covered in guano, which is highly unattractive to climb on and usually gives little purchase. On the other hand there are also large crags or sections of crags, which have no ledges and which do not support nesting birds. There is no reason why these crags cannot be climbed at any time of the year. Visits by climbers over the past 20 years have indicated that there is actually a smaller amount of 'climbable' rock, i.e. clean rock, with little or no vegetation and free of bird colonies and their attendant guano, than first imagined. However, those areas that are attractive offer some of the most impressive climbing challenges in Scotland and the UK.

      The MCofS recommend that NTS should instigate a management regime that takes a view that access for climbing can be allowed at all times of the year, but offers information about specific voluntary restrictions based upon requirements to protect nesting sites and colonies. The MCofS can help NTS assess which crags, or parts of crags, should be closed voluntarily from February to mid July and which ones can be open during that time. We can then have an information sheet about this on the website and with liaison between MCS, NTS wardens and RSPB (Scotland) we can make changes and keep it updated. From mid July, most birds have finished nesting and there is no reason why climbing cannot continue across all crags (bearing in mind that some will never be attractive to climbers as they are covered in guano).

   3. Habitat
      Climbing has evolved considerably in its ethical direction over the 100 years since the 'modern' sport of climbing has existed. The MCofS and the BMC and the vast majority of climbers now adhere to a practice that is based around minimal impact. Modern climbing ethics are substantially different from the methods used in the climbing of Conachair in 1987, which would not be acceptable today. That ascent involved the pre-inspection of the climb by abseil beforehand, the removal of some grass from cracks during this process (known as 'gardening') and the establishment of three metal bolts to allow for protection. This was at a period of time in climbing development that accepted such practices, but there is now widespread acceptance of an altogether less intrusive form of climbing. The use of bolts on sea cliffs is spurned, 'gardening' on such climbs is frowned upon, and the ethic of 'on-sight' climbing, without pre-inspection is accepted good practice. This form of climbing has little or no effect on the rock or cliff based flora. It also means that cliffs that are covered in vegetation including important lichens or flowers are not seen as acceptable or attractive objectives.

      These ideas are detailed in the MCofS's Information Sheets – "Bolts in Scotland" and "The Scottish Crag Code".

      The MCofS recommends that in liaison with NTS, SNH and RSPB, the MCofS publicise and promote the climbing ethics contained in the MCofS "Scottish Crag Code" as the guiding principles for climbing activity on the islands.

   4. Other Climbing Interest
      Interestingly, two of the Stacks (i.e. the smaller islands of Stac Lee and Stac an Armin) as well as the hills of Mullach an Eilein on Boreray, Cnoc Glas on Soay, Bioda Mor on Dun, and Conachair on St Kilda itself are classified as Marilyns. This classification is similar to that of the better known Munros and Corbetts classification used to tabulate certain hills. Marilyn peaks are defined as having at least 150m of re-ascent on all sides, of which there are over 1,500 in the UK. The St. Kilda stacks on this list require climbing expertise and may prove to be 'stoppers' for those wishing to complete the entire list in what is essentially a hill walking activity. This difficulty and the difficulty of landing on the stacks combine to make this activity on St Kilda appeal to only a minority.

      Ascending the Marilyns which are stacks, and which primarily hold large colonies of birds, may be seen to be unacceptable. However, the inhabitants regularly climbed these stacks in the past during fowling. Further, evidence of similar concentrations of nesting birds on islands which are also popular with tourists, points to a management system which could allow controlled access here too. A good example would be the Farne Islands off the east coast of Northumberland. Here colonies of nesting birds including various terns, coexist with thousands of visitors in the summer. The visitors are directed along designated paths and areas often side by side with the nests. Rather than be detrimental to breeding success, there is evidence that those nests closer to the paths have a higher success rate due to a lack of predation – humans deterring predation from gulls. Other islands in Scotland where large colonies exist alongside visitor access include The Island of Handa and Ailsa Craig. It should be easily possible to identify the normal (easiest) route of ascent to the summit of the stacks and indicate these as an acceptable route of ascent and descent.

   The MCofS would recommend the identification of one access route to the summit of each of the stacks for ascent during nesting periods.

4. General Visitor Access
   There may be other interested visitors besides climbers (e.g. bird watchers, photographers, naturalists), but in order to help all visitors and to educate them of the importance of the islands, it is important to have an initial welcoming that is positive and informative. The MCofS would recommend positive advice rather than negative advice by rangers and staff on the islands as well as in the information available from NTS itself. Most people including climbers are much more likely to take notice to this approach.

5. Safety of visiting walkers and climbers
   It is understood that NTS also have worries over 'health and safety' considerations (the islands are remote and there is no mountain rescue service as on the mainland). In the NTS press release about this consultation it was stated "NTS are aware that the weather outside of the breeding season is poor at best, seriously reducing safe climbing opportunities". MCofS believe that safety and rescue worries are unfounded.
   1. Safety
      Climbing is founded on a principle of accepting risks as part of the adventure and exponents expect to be totally self-reliant. This ethos is embedded in the sport and is one which all national representative bodies for the sport actively subscribe to. All our information to climbers and non-climbers, beginners and novices, through clubs and climbing walls, is accompanied by the following:

      The UIAA (MCofS) Participation Statement:
      'Climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these activities should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions and involvement.'

      The acceptance of risk includes the acceptance of the extremes of nature regarding weather, sea conditions and the difficulty of the actual climbing. Visiting climbers would be fully aware of these hazards. Climbers normally operate in teams of two, although they will probably travel to the islands in larger groups to share travel costs. Each group would be expecting to be self sufficient, but additionally, a climbing team of two will itself be self-reliant.

      The committing nature of the venue, the lack of outside help, the remoteness and the bad weather that is inherent in climbing in the islands will be understood by all those who visit and will be an acceptable part of the adventure. Not all climbers will wish to accept these hazards or this particular challenge and so will not visit, but for those who do, these very characteristics will be primary reasons for climbing here. These hazards in themselves will be a limiting factor on visitor numbers.

      It is also important not to confuse issues of safety, through Health & Safety Law, that are part of an employee's obligations, with safety and liability issues regarding recreational non-employee visitors for which NTS has no similar responsibility. Although NTS has a duty of care to visitors, it cannot be held accountable for the actions of such visitors and incurs no liabilities towards them in this respect. Indeed, if NTS take a more proscriptive management role in a belief that this will enhance the safety of visitors and reduce their liability, it can in many circumstances lead to a greater duty of care and greater liability falling on the organisation. It is much better to offer informed advice and guidance, but allow individuals to make their own decisions regarding their own actions. As an example, the erection of railings and signs around The Mistress Stone would require active constant management to ensure these built structures remain secure and fit for purpose. These would also encourage a false sense of safety in visitors, attracting some who may not have dared to venture near, to actually do so. Any accident by visitors leaning over the barrier could make NTS liable to litigation. As well as being intrusive and detrimental to the beauty of the area, such barriers may be counter productive in safety terms and open NTS to further liability.

      This issue is one that is being clarified in the Access Legislation part of the Land Reform Bill.

   2. Rescue
      Contrary to the image portrayed in the press and in television programmes, the vast majority of walkers, mountaineers, and climbers do not expect to be rescued as a matter of course when an accident occurs.

      Climbers from Scotland and the UK in general have an international reputation for travelling to the more remote areas of the world to make outstanding ascents. These areas almost always do not have any possibility of external rescue. This is an accepted part of the adventure and part of the reason why climbers travel to these venues. In the UK such areas are few and far between. The best examples are the islands of Mingulay, Berneray, and Pabbay – the southern Barra Isles (now within ownership of NTS). Here modern climbing has been developed over the past 10 years. There are many similarities between here and St Kilda. Not only from the point of view of the social heritage and its connection to climbing, but in its remoteness. There is no possibility of easy rescue here. Visitors understand this and go suitably prepared.

      Information about the lack of rescue resources can be made public so that visiting climbers know what to expect.

Conclusion
We would hope to agree a position that allows climbing to take place in accord with the ethos of the currently debated and forthcoming access legislation, where responsible access is encouraged, and recreational behaviour is guided by voluntary codes and appropriate education. The MCofS would recommend NTS consider the following changes:

1. Celebrate, in association with MCofS, the historical importance and the cultural heritage of the climbing on the Islands of St Kilda.
2. Remove the bylaws that essentially ban climbing and solo walking.
3. Instigate a management regime that takes a view that access for climbing can be allowed at all times of the year.
4. In liaison with MCofS, SNH and RSPB publicise and promote the climbing ethics contained in the MCofS "Scottish Crag Code" as the guiding principles for climbing activity on the islands.
5. Offer information about specific voluntary restrictions based upon requirements to protect nesting sites and colonies. The MCofS can help NTS assess which crags, or parts of crags, should be closed voluntarily from Feb to mid July and which ones can be open during that time. A MCofS Information sheet relating to this can be placed on the websites and with liaison between MCofS, NTS wardens and RSPB (Scotland) changes and updates made. From mid July, most birds have finished nesting and there is no reason why climbing cannot continue across all crags (bearing in mind some will never be attractive to climbers as they are covered in guano).
6. Develop with the MCofS, guidance for visiting climbers regarding the adventurous nature of the climbing, the lack of rescue, and the need for self-reliance.
7. dentify one access route to the summit of each of the stacks for ascent during nesting periods for climbers, and other visitors and publicise this as the most acceptable route.

MCofS 2.5.02

REFERENCE:
"A Description of the Occidental, i.e. Western Isles of Scotland" by Donald Monro, 1549.
"A Voyage to St Kilda" by Martin Martin, 1698.
"A Description of The Western Isles of Scotland" by Martin Martin, 1703.
"Mingulay" by Ben Buxton, 1995.
"St Kilda" by Norman Heathcote.
"The Life and Death of St Kilda" by Tom Steel. 1975.
"Islands on the Edge of the Sea" by Charles MacLean.
"The Islands of Scotland" by Fabian, Little, and Williams, SMC District Guide. 1989.
"Climbing in St Kilda" by Norman Heathcote, Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal Vol.6, p146.
"The Ascent of Stack na Biorach"" by R M Barrington, The Alpine Journal vol. 27, p195.
Scotts Magazine, Article by R Balharry & T Weir, Sept 1969.
"Natural Born Climbers" by Dave Cuthbertson, On The Edge magazine, 1995.
"Am Posadh Hiortach" by Gaelic TV, screened in 1996.

St Kilda Management Plan Review