SAFETY & TRAINING NEWS
Mountaineering Instructors - part 2
Instructing in the winter mountains (Mountaineering Instructors Certificate)
By George McEwan
(Course Director, Glenmore Lodge)
Myself, and four MIC trainees are breaking trail through knee-deep snow into Coire Laogh Mor (Big corrie of calves). This corrie has some neat steep sections of snowy ground - perfect for using mountaineering techniques such as moving up and down steep snow with an axe and crampons. Climbing out from Laogh Mor we navigate through near white out conditions over to Cnap Coire Na Spreidhe (pronounced 'krap-korn spray' and means the knob of the cattle corrie). This is a fantastically wild looking place, and if the weather is clear you have amazing views down into Strath Nethy and across to Ben A' Bhuird.
There are some small cliffs and broken ground on the east side of the summit of Cnap Coir Na Spreidhe. We take the opportunity to discuss assessing the potential avalanche risk and methods for doing this, then the trainees set to going about making their own assessments of the slope. After a short while we all get together and discuss our findings about the safety of the slope. Our consensus is - the slope is safe but, there are small isolated pockets of wind slab, which give some cause for concern, so we opt to move cautiously and use safe travel techniques. Descending into the corrie provides ideal opportunities for looking at teaching the construction of a variety of anchors on snow/ and rock. After this it's time to head back navigating our way down the hill in poor visibility - first day in the bag.
There are five days involved in the MIC training course. The short piece above describes a fairly typical day out. For the next day we plan to go climb some ice and look at teaching skills; such as using ice tools for climbing, ice screw placements and belays, and the use of bottom and top ropes for teaching and coaching climbing techniques. Although we don't have a plethora of ice climbs in the Northern Corries we can usually sniff out some suitable sections of ice to play on, mainly steep wee smears and such like. In the process of seeking out these esoteric wee gems we have ended up in some wild and out of the way places.
Later on in the week we look at managing students over typical winter mountaineering terrain. We do this day as a journey wandering around and over the Cairngorms. Coire an Lochain, with the huge expanse of the Great Slab, has a very exposed feel to it and is a great place to teach how to manage students over the sort of terrain commonly encountered on places such as the Ben. By climbing quickly up The Couloir we can be on the plateau and heading out into the vastness of the Cairngorm plateau in no time. The Cairngorm plateau is a wind swept plateau area of granite dirt and patches of mat grass unique in the UK. This featureless landscape, gouged out by glaciation, is one of the reasons snow does not tend to collect on the plateau but is more often than not blown away. Heading over the plateau we can descend into the amazing Loch A'an basin with the imposing square cut bulk of the Shelter Stone crag. The descent down into Hells Lum crag via the Feith Buidhe (meaning yellow bog stream) poses some neat mountaineering challenges ranging from assessing the avalanche risk to managing students down this complex and serious terrain.
The latter part of the week deals with the nitty gritty of teaching and guiding on winter climbs. A lot of this is simply winterising the techniques an instructor uses in summer.
Teaching students to climb in winter is a challenging activity. In winter due to the easier terrain and the type of climbs novices start leading on, the instructor tends to solo, more so than is usual when teaching in summer. This obviously puts the instructor at risk from a variety of factors not least of which is debris knocked down from other climbers. How to manage all these factors and safely teach a novice to winter climb is the main emphasis.
Lasting four days the Mountaineering Instructor Scheme (MIC) assessment looks at the candidates all round ability as a winter mountaineer. The most challenging day to 'get in the bag' is the personal climbing. We are looking to make best use of conditions so if the going is good we will do that as soon as possible, especially if the forecast is looking to become more challenging.
On the personal climbing we'd be looking to see candidates lead consecutive pitches at Grade III standard. As the teaching days will be based in the Cairngorms we like to head west and climb on the Ben or Meagaidh to see candidates cope with the climbs and terrain here. If conditions over west are pants then we will more than likely stay put in the Gorms and head either over to the Lum or into Coire Lochain. As the climbs are generally only about three pitches long we tend to start very early and ask that candidates do a climb each.
If we have stayed in the Gorms for the climbing day, then in all likelihood the mountaineering day will see us travel west. We have used the corries over the back of Meagaidh, which as well as being wild and remote offer a great variety of mountaineering challenges.
The final two days involve the candidates actually working and teaching volunteer students. Here the candidates structure, organise and perform, climbing instruction appropriate to the students aims and abilities. On both days candidates will be climbing a route with their students, whilst teaching. At the close of the assessment the assessors get together and review the candidates overall performance and reach a decision, as happens with the MIA.
For a list of Mountain Instructors contact the Association of Mountaineering Instructors (AMI)
For Information about courses at Glenmore Lodge contact Tel: 01479 861 256
Avalanche Course
REMINDER
There is still time to book onto one of this winters one-day Avalanche Awareness courses based in the Cairngorms. Aimed at the general winter hill goer, the courses are non-certificated and will be suitable for anyone wishing to increase their knowledge of snow and avalanches, learn which areas to avoid and improve their understanding of reports and forecasts. Each course will consist of an indoor introduction to avalanche theory followed by a practical session on the hill.
The courses will be delivered by qualified and experienced personnel at a ratio of 1 tutor to 4 participants. Basic winter skills will NOT be covered. The course costs £35 per person and the dates are as follows:-
Saturday 14th January 2006
Sunday 15th January 2006
Saturday 21st January 2006
For more information please see the website or send a SAE to the office.
Winter Skills Training Courses
REMINDER TO APPLY
For general enquiries or to check availability please contact:
Glenmore Lodge Tel: 01479 861 256
The Glenmore Lodge Winter Skills Courses are again being offered to members at a discounted price. Over 100 course places with a £50 discount off the normal price for all members of the MCofS. Sponsored by Sportscotland and Glenmore Lodge.
There are two levels of course, they will run concurrently on the same dates.
Introduction to Winter Hill Skills: Cost £115
Introduction to Winter Mountaineering Skills: Cost £160
Please note the Course administration information regarding use of your own boots and crampons, winter clothing and compass that is included with the booking forms. Clubs please note that we can only take INDIVIDUAL bookings. Club secretaries should distribute the full information to their members to allow them to book themselves and to understand what will be required.
Course Dates
Friday 6th – Sunday 8th Jan 2006
Friday 13th – Sunday 15th Jan 2006
Friday 20th – Sunday 22nd Jan 2006
TO APPLY:
Applications will only be accepted on a MCofS application form or a photocopy
Applications forms were printed on page 43 of Scottish Mountaineer Issue 28 (September 2005)
They are also available to download from our website
OR contact the office for a copy. Tel: 01738 638 227
The applications should then be made direct to Glenmore Lodge
All applications should be accompanied by a cheque for the full amount
Courses are available for MCofS members and affiliated members only
All courses are offered on a first come first served basis
Course Administration and conditions apply, please refer to the application form before applying
Further details in the last issue of Scottish Mountaineer (Issue 28) September 2005, Page 43 or on the MCofS website.
Lectures 2006
Open to the public
The Clachaig Inn in Glen Coe will again be hosting a series of MCofS lectures during February and March.
The speakers are Wes Sterritt and Tom Rupar (SAIS Avalanche Observers on Creag Meagaigh), Roger Wild (MCofS Mountain Safety Adviser) and Mike Pescod (IFMGA Mountain Guide based in Fort William).
Wes, Tom, Roger and Mike will be talking about Avalanche Awareness, Winter Mountain Navigation and Winter Mountain Safety. The lectures start at 8pm.
The Clachaig lectures are FREE (but donations to the cause of mountain safety will be gratefully accepted, and touted for on the door). Along with real ale and good pub grub, the talks are a great way to have a relaxing and informative evening.
February
7th Wes Sterritt Avalanche Awareness
14th Tom Rupar Avalanche Awareness
21st Roger Wild Winter Mountain Navigation
28th Roger Wild Winter Mountain Navigation
March
7th Mike Pescod Winter Mountain Safety
14th Mike Pescod Winter Mountain Safety
Winter Experience Lectures
Stuart Johnston and Pete Hill have once again teamed up with the Mountaineering Council of Scotland and Tiso to present the very successful, informative and entertaining winter safety lecture series. The lectures provide hands on experience with a selection of equipment, plus other elements to enhance your safety in the mountains this winter.
All the lectures start at 7.30pm
Tickets cost £3.00 and are available from Tiso shops
Mon 9th Jan Stuart Johnston Tiso Edinburgh Outdoor Experience
Mon 9th Jan Pete Hill Royal Highland Hotel, Inverness
Tue 10th Jan Stuart Johnston Carnegie Library, Ayr
Tue 10th Jan Pete Hill Aberdeen City Hotel, Aberdeen
Wed 11th Jan Stuart Johnston Tiso Glasgow Outdoor Experience
Wed 11th Jan Pete Hill Discovery Point, Dundee
Thu 12th Jan Stuart Johnston Golden Lion Hotel, Stirling
|
