Issue 28 September 2005
OTHER NEWSOn Thin IceMick Fowler was once dubbed 'the Mountaineers' Mountaineer' by a poll in the Observer, and his trips from London to the far north west of Scotland to nab coveted first ascents became legendary both before and after he wrote about them in his first book Vertical Pleasure. Since then a lot more peaks have seen Mick standing at their summit for the first time, climbed in excellent style with his total acceptance of the alpine-style ascent of major Himalayan peaks. So much so that he, and partner Paul Ramsden, received the US 'Golden Piton' award and the French 'Piolet d'Or' in 2002 as the finest alpine achievement of that year. Still working as a Tax Man, but now based in Derbyshire and with his wife Nicki and father to two children, Tessa and Alec, it still amazes that he finds both the energy and the time for a regular yearly big trip. On Thin Ice is Mick's second foray into literature, with publishers Baton Wicks, and working with Ken Wilson must in itself have been like tackling a big peak! The result is a cavalcade of adventurous exploits in Nepal, India, Alaska and China (and a few closer to home) packaged in Mick's modest writing style. Search it out in bookshops and you won't be disappointed. Scottish Mountaineer will feature a review of the book in December. Super7 New Route AttemptOliver Metherell is attempting to become the first in the world to achieve a Super7? But what is it? Oliver explains that it is based on the concept of trying to climb the highest point on each continent – The Seven Summits. That was first achieved by Dick Bass, and has really taken off with climbers around the world striving to add their names to the growing list (a sort of Munro Mania for world mountaineers!). But Oliver thought it would be interesting to add spice to that by achieving a first ascent of a new climbing route on each continent. “As far as I am aware, nobody has set out to achieve this. I have been inspired by British climbing stars such as Mick Fowler. He has proved that some of the most beautiful and technical challenges lie away from the very highest peaks and I hope to pioneer a new route, in alpine-style, on each continent, not necessarily on the highest peak. This has gone well so far with an ascent of a new route in New Zealand with James Edwards and Kevin Neal (film maker and producer of 'Hot Aches') on Mt Aspiring (named '24 Hour Party People', 650m Grade VII, ED2) and on Ben Nevis (aka Europe) with 'Right Hand Chimney' 250m Grade VI,7. Oliver's next objective is a new line on a giant 'Eagle Ridge' on Mt Rondoy, in the Huayhash region of Peru, for which he has received a MCofS Expedition Grant. Catch up with his exploits on www.super7.co.uk Hostels GaloreNow established as the definitive guide, the 2005 updated version of the Independent Hostel Guide from Backpackers Press is available in bookshops and outdoor shops at £4.95 (ISBN 0-9536185-4-4). Or you can get it Online from www.independenthostelguide.co.uk and pay by credit card. Crieff Tryst
8th – 15th October 2005
Not Just a Walking Festival Crieff is almost in the centre of Scotland, and was once the main destination for the Drovers bringing cattle to market from the Isle of Skye. The Crieff Drovers Tryst is celebrated nowadays in a festival that includes historical re-enactments, big Highland Coo's (often called Hamish!) and a welter of outdoor action – guided walks (low and high level, easy to hard), cycling, horse riding, orienteering, rock climbing, treasure huts and mountain biking. Opened this year by author Irvine Butterfield (who penned a book about the Drovers and a re-enactment of the drove) on Saturday 8th at 11.30am in James Square, there follows through the week an art exhibition, The North Men re-enactments, a 'painted-cow' competition, spinning and weaving demonstrations. There's loads of evening entertainment – quiz night, Ghosts & Ghouls tour, live music (from Gaberlunzie and Mamma's), ceilidh's, a Barn Dance, a Famous Grouse BBQ and live jazz. Full details and free registration for activities contact 01764 652 578, see www.droverstryst.co.uk or pick up a brochure at a Tourist Information Centre. Munro Society News:
Early Munroists: Spritely 92yr old Jim (Cosgrove) was in attendance at the first screening of the film at the Societies AGM in the Birnam Institute. Members who attended the show provided an appreciative audience and were later joined by the general public for the Annual Lecture given by Martin Moran. The public support has encouraged The Society to revisit Birnam for their 2006 AGM and again the Annual Lecture will be open to the public, so look out for it. Perthshire is again to the fore as the Society returns to Blair Athol on October 22nd (The Athol Arms Hotel) for the Munro Society Dinner at which the after dinner speaker will be the well known Irish mountaineer, author poet and general raconteur, Dermott Sommers. As the dinner is only open to Society members, this alone is worth joining for. For a copy of the video contact: John Burdin, Tay View, 15 Ardestie Place, Moniefieth DD5 4PS. Make cheques for £11 (inclusive of p&p) payable to “The Munro Society”. 2005 Scottish Mountaineering Club JournalThe Journal is again available to MCofS members at the discounted rate of £11.95 including postage (RRP £13.95) Articles are diverse and include such authors as Iain Smart on the cuillin; Graham Little describes an expedition to Lammergeier Spire in the Miyar Nala area of India; Davy Gunn tells tales of guiding in Glen Coe; Stephen Reid explores the Galloway hills; Adam Watson explains why winters are disappearing and John Workman climbs Minus One Direct on the Ben. Finally Dave Broadhead celebrates the 50th anniversary of the Ling Hut. And there is always the Munros and more besides. Available from: Douglas F. Lang, 580 Perth Road, DUNDEE DD2 1PZ The Scottish Mountaineering TrustHelping others enjoy Scotland's mountains
The trust is a grant making Charity that has been dispersing funds for over 40yrs. All profits from the Scottish Mountaineering Club's climbing and hill walking guides go to the Trust and provide much of its revenue. It supports a wide-ranging category of initiatives, always associated with mountains as long as the hills or hill users benefit. This has included footpath construction and maintenance (between 1994 and 2003 £190,000 has been spent on paths including the Allt a'Mhuillin path on Ben Nevis) core funding to the MCofS for access and conservation work, mountain rescue equipment and facilities, support to expeditions, renovation of club huts, land purchases and mountain education and training. Most commonly groups or organisation can apply for grants but new ideas and causes are always welcomed, and the trust is keen to encourage applications for education, especially among young people and people with disabilities. There is no limit to the amount applied for. Obtain an application form from the Scottish Mountaineering Trust, Willowbank, Tradespark Road, Nairn IV12 5NF or download one at www.smc.org/trust/trust.htm. Applications are considered in January, June and October. Scottish Charity SCO09117. JMT Suilven AppealThe John Muir Trust (JMT) recently launched the Suilven Appeal to help safeguard the mountains of Suilven, Canisp, Cul Mor, Cul Beag and a surrounding 44,500 acres of the Assynt and Drumrunie Estates. Endorsed by Berghaus, the Appeal aims to raise £500,000 to help the JMT support the conservation of this huge tract of important wild land in addition to enabling the Trust to continue its work on its own properties. The JMT played a major role in helping the Assynt Foundation (a community body and charity registered in Scotland) secure essential funding to secure the purchase. The area forms the significant core of the Assynt and Coigach National Scenic Area and has four Sites of Special Scientific Interest, a Special Area of Conservation, and a Special Protection Area for breeding birds. It was awarded European Geopark status, is currently being considered as a World Heritage Site and offers a real opportunity to increase the richness and biodiversity of the area as although stunning to look at, its flora and fauna have suffered from years of overgrazing. John Muir Trust director, Nigel Hawkins, said 'The management of the natural heritage forms a key part of the future management plan for the estates, and JMT – who appoint a director to the board of the Foundation – will give considerable help and advice in the future. Our Suilven Appeal will provide essential funds towards our input to both the purchase and future management of this sublime wild land area with its importance for UK Biodiversity Action Plan (BAP) species.' Mountaineering Leadership
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