By Irvine Butterfield

For further information see the Walkingwild website at: www.walkingwild.co.uk.

To the mountaineer chasing another tick to the desired list of attained summits Mull is somewhat enigmatic - if the peak be Munro or Corbett there is only one hill in the list. Ben More is a straightforward ascent either by the broad northern flank, or the more defined southern rib of Maol nan Damh, and may be as much remembered for its magnetic vagaries as the quality of its views. As its attainment requires a sea crossing it has featured as the final peak in several completions of Munro's Tables, and on one notable occasion is known to have witnessed a double completion by two members of Perth J.M.C.S. Dun da Gaoithe is now made easier by a track to radio masts on its ridge and is often undertaken in dashing style between the early and late Oban - Craignure ferry crossings. Though Beinn Talaidh has also featured in Corbett's list, its tenure was brief. Tomsleibhe bothy in Glen Forsa often provided both shelter and a popular staging post for its ascent, but no one seems to have been unduly phased when it returned to its previous anonymity. However, the hill still attracts interest as with other peaks clustered about Glen More it is one of the seven classed as Grahams. Beinn Talaidh thus finds itself on yet another list steadily gaining its own band of adherents. With a variety of lists to choose from what does one do on the off day?

As one of the major islands of Argyll, Mull clutches to itself a string of smaller island pearls of immeasurable charm, the most notable being Iona and Staffa. Historically pilgrims destined for Iona landed at Grass Point opposite Kerrera, and in season may have encountered cattle being driven to the point to be swum in the opposite direction on their journey to the mainland trysts. Today only the old inn, which saw its final use as a tea-room some years ago, and a sturdy stone pier bear witness to this traffic of a bygone age. Visitors now find solace in scanning the sea for dolphin and porpoise, or in directing their binoculars skyward in search of the sea-eagle which finds sanctuary in the hinterland hills. Bird watchers are sometimes to be seen parked on sections of the old road through the wilds of Glen More scanning the skies for raptors. This hard standing is also useful as a base from which to attempt the hills, where the mountaineer may find a vantage point and thrill to the sight of soaring eagle or raucous raven, and briefly enjoy their own bird's eye view of the surrounding country.

A minor road heading west from Salen is likewise often that taken by the mountain pilgrim intent on the ascent of Ben More, or its satelittes. Those with lesser objectives may turn aside at Gruline to follow the northern shore of Loch na Keal to the Ulva Ferry. Here, payment for the short crossing across the Sound of Ulva is both a ferry fare and an entrance fee to the island.

A track from the island's pier climbs through the wooded policies behind "The Boathouse" and from this branch paths provide a variety of walks. The majority of visitors looking for an extended walk beyond the woods around Ulva House will find their footsteps directed along the southern slopes of the central hill-range. This appeals to those with a sense of history as here lies the greater concentration of deserted croft houses, and ancient standing stones. Set above a fractured coastline, replete with off-shore islets, lie the ruins of the old settlements of Ormaig, Crasaig and Kilvekewen. The silent stones speak of an age when a living for some 600 souls was provided by the kelp industry. It is recorded that in the eleven years between 1817 and 1825 the island produced some 256 tons of kelp. As each ton of kelp produced required the gathering of 20 tons of seaweed during the months of May, June and July the activity would be immense. Sadly the industry collapsed in the mid-19th century. This was followed by potato blight and with the main means of livelihood gone many emigrated to North America and Australia and the land was turned over to sheep.

Visitors to Beinn Chreagach, the high point in the centre of the island may be intent on adding a tick to their list of Marilyns (elevations with 500ft of re-ascent on all sides). The open grass and heather flanks may be tackled from various points along the tracks to north and south of the hill, with opportunities to admire the bold profile of Ben More across Loch na Keal. From this quarter the mountain is seen as a more majestic cone, in complete contrast to the table-topped summit as seen from the east. Add to the day by making a traverse of the hill from either north or south to capture some of yesteryear's charm still evident in the many small ruined settlements along the mountain's foot.

There may also be a temptation to grab the opportunity to visit Gometra whose unnamed high point also enjoys Marilyn status. This requires a walk (or cycle) of about 7 miles along the main track, which runs along the northern slopes of Ulva's central ridge to the crossing of a tidal narrows. Here, a cairn on the sandy flats marks the older crossing; a narrow bridge at the northern margins of the two islands providing today's travellers with a dry shod crossing at all states of the tide.

Set in the green of former field systems, whitewashed cottages close to a burial ground herald the outlying slopes of the hill, and a suitable ascent route lying ahead. A convenient sheep trod climbing above a small plantation, off the curve of the track (368408), leads to patches of green hill pasture amidst the heather. Further evidence of a vanished community can be seen around the bay of Sailean Mhor, beyond which views unfold to the crofts of Mull across Loch Tuath, with a panorama of sea and islands soon opening up to the south. Whatever the day's chosen itinerary a visit to "The Boathouse" for refreshments almost goes without saying. No encouragement should be needed to try home made scones and tea , and for those of more exotic tastes local oysters, from Soriby or Cragaig, along with the traditional Guinness come highly recommended.

The Ulva Ferry is also home to the two boats which ply to Staffa and Iona, and Staffa and the Treshnish Isles. The latter trip allows ample time on Staffa to ascend to the high point and visit the celebrated Fingal's Cave. Time ashore on Lunga can be dedicated to bird watching and an easy grassed ascent to the high point, Cruachan. This enjoys a central position to the other scattered islands in the group, and northwards there are glimpses of the distant hills of Rum. A final navigation of the seas by way of Fladda sees a turn through the passage between the twin island fortresses of Burgh More and Burgh Beg before the sail down Loch Tuath completes an extended circumnavigation of Ulva and Gometra.

The great bites of Loch na Keal and Loch Scridain provide Mull with a coastline more greatly extented than many an island of similar acreage. In the south of the island a narrow road leaves the pilgrims' much trodden, and driven route, to Iona at Pennyghael, crossing the lower spine of the peninsula to reach the tiny settlement of Carsaig. A path just above the pier courses around the bay and thence along the shore beneath a battlement of huge cliffs. These are broken at the Nun's Pass which is associated with a nearby cave. Here, under the cliff, a gracefully arched cave was once the refuge of nuns from Iona. It is possible that they were fleeing from the Viking raiders who harried the western seas in the days of the early Christian missonaries.The Carsaig Arches are part of an eroded sea cliff and are as impressive as the cliffs from which they were carved. Be prepared for a rough walk underfoot and take time to savour the magnificent scenery on the eight mile return walk.

Another evocative coastal walk is that around Calgary Bay's sandy strand from which many immigrants left for Canada, commemorated in the namesake town of Calgary in Alberta. A short distance along the B8073 a track from Ensay leads to Haunn near Treshnish Point from which there are views across the sound to the islands. Here go through a gate and follow a path down to the first of two Iron Age forts. A raised beach under the cliffs to the south leads to a waterfall where a path zig-zags up to the deserted ruins of Crakaig and Glac Gugairaidh, and thence to an old school close by the road, a short distance from the starting point.

In recent years the provision of budget accommodation has proved a welcome addition to the islands' facilities. This combined with a judicious use of the public transport available affords backpackers many more opportunities to visit places of interest, and gain an insight into the rich history of these islands. Once tempted by what is here on to offer, can other visits to Argyll's Atlantic island kingdom be long delayed?