By Irvine Butterfield

For further information see the Walkingwild website at: www.walkingwild.co.uk.

It was a dull day with the sun struggling to get through a coverlet of battleship-grey cloud. “Try a walk on St. Cuthbert's Way beside the river near St. Boswells”, suggested Mary Anderson, who runs a Bed and Breakfast establishment just off the Dere Street section of the route. “My visitors tell me it is one of the nicest section of the whole way”.

The waymarked path from the centre of Newton St. Boswells drops through a wooded hollow and then above the river's wooded margins to reach a footbridge which crosses the Tweed to Dryburgh Abbey. This crossing suggested the possibility of combining a visit to the abbey with another short walk up through the woods to an enormous statue of Wallace which looks across to the Eildon hills, with the further option of continuing to Scott's View, set high above a loop of the river. But I decided to act on Mary's advice and go with the flow of the river.

Downstream of the bridge a statuesque grey heron stood motionless on a stony spit at the tip of a small island. This sighting was to be the first of several I had on the river-side walk down towards Maxton. Further wild life interest was provided by the flotillas of mallard pottering around the banks and bobbing along on the river's swifter flows. At my approach a moorhen, or coot, scuttled into the safety of the reedier margins. There were wild flowers too, a profusion of nodding maroon near the tiny nine hole golf course, where I watched young golfers holing out on the pristine green. Below Mertoun Bridge a fisherman was casting his line and on my return a friendly local out walking his dog joined me for the walk back to St. Boswells.

St. Cuthbert's Way provided yet another introduction to Borders' walking when I joined it for the walk up from Kirk Yetholm to the Border itself. Two walkers from Galashiels enjoy their retirement on local walks and that day were setting off to revisit The Schil. They recommended the walk but I was content to amble along and see what the day would bring. The initial climb of St. Cuthbert's Way is shared by the Pennine Way with the routes parting on the slopes under the crown of the hill. I reached the Border by a long grassy drag to gain the summit of the crossing near Coldsmouth Hill. Having popped a toe into England I noticed a rough trod following the wall which here marks the boundary. This proved a convenient link to the Pennine Way at the start of its climb to White Law, and as there were more easy paths of flattened grass beside the march fence there was temptation enough ... I was in no hurry and just content to continue. Here was wildness, and what struck me most was the seemingly endless chain of rounded hills in line ahead and a silence which was almost audible. Not a sound ...no saughing of the wind in the wiry grasses .... no tinkling of burns ... just an absolute calm. A faint bleat on a far hillside caught my ear .... then came a roar as an RAF jet came in low along the rift of the College Burn ..... an ear splitting crescendo as it turned around the grey pate of The Cheviot and it was gone.

There were several people coming off The Schil and there was time enough to make this my objective for the day. The mist was clearing from the summit of The Cheviot and south the long tail of hill-ripples stretched as far as I could see, the nipple of Windy Gyle the one summit most easily identified. That The Schil appears on no mountain list seemed a matter of supreme indifference for its attraction is as a viewpoint looking to the long line of The Cheviots, and north to the Eildons which command a central position in the panorama. East the patchwork fields of The Merse plot the route of the Tweed to a distant North Sea.

This must have been a view similar to that seen by the Roman legions who established their fortress at Newstead at the foot of the Eildons. This they knew as Trimontium and was set to guard the crossing of the Tweed at Leaderfoot. If you would like to see how they lived and worked take a look at the Roman Heritage Centre at Melrose. A good place to take youngsters who will enjoy playing soldiers of the legion. Such views would also be familiar to the reivers who fought amongst these hills and it is easy to see how they became the “debateable lands”. On return from The Schil I took the alternative “low route” of the Pennine Way whose grassy thread eases it way down to Burnhead where the road is rejoined for the walk down to Kirk Yetholm.

Scotland's first coast to coast long distance footpath, The Southern Upland Way, courses through the Borders region on a cross-country diagonal from Moffat in the south-west to the coastal terminus at Cockburnspath. It is not uncommon to find that walkers either complete the route in several parts, or use sections as a means of reaching a favoured hill. Attractive to many are the hill crossings of the Captain's Road from Tibbie Shields Inn on St. Mary's Loch to Wardlaw on Ettrick Water, or the old drove road between Traquair and Yair. The latter follows the ridge between Minch Moor and the Three Brethren, the route taken by Montrose after his defeat at Philliphaugh in 1645. The Three Brethren are three identical cairns some 9 feet tall and 6 feet diameter at the base. These command a fine prospect of the junction of three of the great rivers of The Borders, the Tweed, Yarrow and Ettrick. A short ascent path up through the woods above a convenient car-park on the A707 four miles to the north-west of Selkirk makes this a popular ascent.

The Ettrick Water has its source in the wild country south-west of Selkirk. Here hills of 2000ft predominate and whatever list is chosen, be it Donald's, or Grahams, the potential for big days on the high tops can offer an attractive challenge. The tarmacadam ends at a large turning area short of Potburn which is accessed by a track which climbs towards Ettrick Head beyond Over Pawhope. This is part of the Southern Upland Way and gives access to the hills at the head of the valley. Those seeking the most challenging round will take the forest track which climbs from the roadhead to the Bught Hill spur of Bodesbeck Law. This places the walker above the 550m contour to give a useful start to a round of the tops. Capel Fell, Wind Fell and Ettrick Pen complete the circuit with an option of diversions to visit the summits of Croft Head, and Loch Fell. Views across to White Coomb and Hart Fell across the deep trench of Moffat Water, and down the length of the Ettrick emphasise the feeling of height and isolation. The apron of trees is conveniently broken to allow descent to Over Pawhope to complete the day. A shorter round by way of the path through the plantations under Pot Law (sign Ettrick Horseshoe) clears the forest south of Bodesbeck Law.

Peebles is the gateway to another horseshoe round. Access is made easier by a good track along the Glensax Burn. Broad open slopes of rolling heather hills characterise this tramp along the line of the march fence atop the hills encircling the head of the glen. At the end of a day tussling with the heather a long lazy descent along the route of an old drove road provides a relaxing end to the walk down to Peebles.

Further south lies Broad Law, at 2756ft the highest peak in the Borders and the only Corbett in the region. Unattracted by the beacon and radio station on the summit many are happy to just grab the summit on a quick dash up from the Megget Stone, or by taking the track up from Hearthstane. The more discerning will make an ascent from one of the parking areas above the Megget Reservoir and, having claimed the high point of the day, follow the broad ridge across Cramalt Craig to Dollar Law. A return by the historic Thief's Road gives a grand ridge walk and retains height until the final steep drop to the car park at the foot of the Megget Reservoir. Alternatively follow the path down the fold of the Cramalt Burn back to the road.

The Borders was long neglected by walkers who tended to pass through on their way to Edinburgh and points north. The potential for walking is now recognised and venues in the region rotate as host for an Annual Walking Festival. This introduction to walking was pioneered by the Regional Tourist Board and success led on to the birth of St. Cuthbert's Way. The festival idea has now matured and has been copied and promoted elsewhere in Scotland. The several townships in the Borders are noted for their rivalry on the rugby field, and the individualism of their annual gatherings, which are strongly rooted in historic tradition. Though steeped in a turbulent past the area is now recognised for its peaceful atmosphere and it soon becomes apparent that the communities foster this interest by pulling together. They are all Borderers when promoting the area as a place to go walking, be it a walk on the wild uplands, or the more relaxing historic pathways. This benefits the many pubs and restaurants which provide suitable refreshments and meals to assuage the biggest of appetites. These I suggest you seek out when your visit ... but do try a little exercise first.