By Irvine Butterfield

For further information see the Walkingwild website at: www.walkingwild.co.uk.

This is the land of The Mounth, the long rolling line of hills which delineates the Highland Line, long the final barrier to drovers and whisky smugglers in times past, who sought the hidden ways through the hills to reach the southern trysts and towns. Their ancient pathways still plot a course through these hills and expansive moors to gain the glens of Isla, Prosen, the two Esks, and Water of Saughs. These routes were later to become the welcome tracks to the established playgrounds of the hillwalking fraternities of nearby Dundee and Forfar. For who in these towns has not heard talk of Driesh and Mayar, of the crossing and dangers of Jock's Road, The Monega, and The Capel Mounth ? Ben Tirran and Mount Battock may also be considered hills worthy of ascent but who has heard of Shank of Flobbit, Monawee, and Ferrowie, names which could only belong to hills such as those in the Doric east? Here is a veritable lexicon of hill names to capture the imagination. Look even closer at the map and you will see that here lies promise of a wild upland frontier to the remoter Highlands.

The hills on the area's western bounds overlook the Isla though often approached from the Glen Shee side. Better known for his famous tables, Sir Hugh Munro considered Mount Blair a particular favourite and who would disagree that its prospects appear most pleasant given the ease of ascent. Since the recent erection of a disfiguring mobile telephone mast on the summit it seems less favoured, and those who may have climbed from the B951 (stance at the plantation beside the road) may now consider Duchary Hill is the more tempting, and a worthy substitute. But beware the marshy ground east of the wood ! Alternatively take the path up Glen Beannie, or that to Loch Beannie to gain the foot of the hill. The pull to the summit is worthwhile for the view north along the sweep of Glen Shee to Glen Lochsie and the high backdrop of Glas Tulaichean and the Cairnwell peaks.

Apart from the obvious Munro ascents, visitors to Glen Clova are most often attracted to the climb from the popular Clova Hotel to the heights leading on to Ben Tirran. The finest round takes the path up The Snub and around the head of Loch Brandy and thence along a broad crest around the head of Loch Wharral. But how many walkers extend their expeditions to take in some of the many tops - there are as many as eleven with a re-ascent of 100ft or more! Look to Ferrowie for views to Lochnagar. “Tops” such as Easter Watery Knowe and Wester Balloch are best approached from the north by way of the path under the Hunt Hill, a diversionary summit for those collecting “Grahams”. Few tramp these tops, many of which are little more than ripples on the bleak plateau. If solitude is what you seek this broad heathery upland is haunting loneliness writ large.

The Water of Saughs also provides passage into the eastern margins of Ben Tirran's voluminous skirt of rounded heather spurs. In its lower reaches it adopts the name of West Water though curiously the glen through which it flows has no name. For the hill walker interest may centre on Hill of Wirren. Though classed as a “Graham” this is by no means the highest elevation, a place reserved for West Knock which dominates the forward view of travellers pushing up the glen road. A Right of Way sign beyond the bridge at Stonyford identifies the start of the hill crossing through the throat of Clash of Wirren, a useful lift to the slopes of West Wirren for the broad ridge to a parent Hill of Wirren, or the clamber to the cairn on the spur of the higher West Knock. The alternative for those seeking the heights of the Wirrens is the suspension bridge (510713) recommended by Andrew Dempster in “The Grahams”. [NOTE - May '05 - This bridge is now reported as having been destroyed] For those seeking a finer prospect of the surrounding glens the Shank of Flobbit provides a more direct line to the belvedere of West Knock.

The end of the road at Waterhead gives way to a stalkers' track along the Water of Saughs and for those of a more pedestrian bent the five mile walk up to the tiny hut at Shieling of Saughs is one to savour. Nondescript though the surrounding rounded heather hills may appear their crossing is one to tax the best of navigators. Its charm lies in its setting - an isolated booth in wild unkempt hills which breathes solitude.

Such attribute may also come to mind should one take the road from Edzell into Glen Esk for here just beyond the turn off to the hills lie the Rocks of Solitiude, walls to a deep pooled gorge where the North Esk breaks free of the hills.

Further up the glen, Tarfside marks the southern point of two ancient hill crossings, The Firmounth and The Fungle, routes from Dinnet and Aboyne on the Dee. These saw much traffic in the days of the drovers as upstream lay the crossing onwards by the Clash of Wirren, a route also favoured by those crossing from Ballater by the Mounth Keen to the upper glen. These crossings can be uncomfortably exposed even in the height of summer, as I was to discover. The haunting cry of the curlew died away and the air turned chill. There were sharp squalls from the east with a hint of sleet. The wind rose in intensity, making progress difficult, and it was not hard to imagine the ease with which one could get lost in those heathery acres where each hill-top looked very much like the next. I was later to hear from a walker who regards these hills as one of his favourite haunts that nowadays he seldom encounters anyone on these hill-passes.

One of the more popular short walks is that from the church at the head of Glen Esk to the Queen's Well in Glen Mark, built to celebrate a visit by Queen Victoria in September 1861. She, like many who have climbed the most easterly Munro, Mount Keen, used the ancient Mounth road talking passage on her pony from north to south. Those taking the southern approach first enjoy a pleasant walk by the track to the well. This is followed by an initial push up the zig-zags of The Ladder, which Queen Victoria describes as “very grand and wild”. This lifts to the long drag across the shoulder of the hill, whence a broad track places the summit within easy striking distance. The final pull to the mountain's conical top brings to view wide panoramas across the Dee and east towards the plains of Aberdeenshire.

The grandeur and wildness along the Water of Mark is well known to many who have taken up “The Challenge”, which takes place in early summer each year. Most are on the crossing from Deeside by Glen Muick and have as their objective the tiny one roomed hut of the Shieling of Mark from which a days walk takes them down to The Retreat at Tarfside en route for Montrose. Unlike the hut on the Water of Saughs there is no helpful and easy track. It is a good 7 miles upstream of the Queen's Well, with many a twist and turn of the watercourse to be followed before the tiny haven is reached. Return to Glen Esk is best made by a crossing of Muckle Cairn to gain the track in the head of Glen Lee, confined in its middle reaches by the precipitate slopes of Hunt Hill, and Monawee.

The latter hill is a pleasant excursion on a short day. Climb beside the waterslides, behind Kirkton at the foot of Loch Lee, towards the cairn on the end of the hill. This enjoys a fine panorama down Glen Esk, and if the mood takes you climb higher to the summit for views to the cragged corners at the head of Loch Lee.

Hereabouts, the upper reaches of Glen Esk have added drama, as there are cliffs on Hunt Hill under which a mountain path climbs to the Falls of Unich, and the Falls of Damff further upstream. At the head of Loch Lee the track to Inchgrundle leads to the spur of Cairn Lick with its views down into the watery hollow of Carlochy - a short ascent with a hint of wildness for those seeking a lazy day. Those with more time and inclination should take the path east of the stream up and over Burnt Hill and Cairn Caidloch. These look to the hidden corners of Glen Effock, a short and little known side glen. The track from the house at the glen's foot joins the Glen Esk road a little over a mile below the car park to make this an eight-mile walk of spectacle and interest.

The closure of the Glen Doll Youth Hostel was thought by many to mark the end of an era but recent attempts to stimulate interest in catering for visitors have been taken up by the people in Glen Clova. The refurbishment of the hotel and its bunkhouse accommodation, and the advent of Meg Mearns Brandy Burn Tea-room and B&B have provided a new focus. Another initiative has seen the provision of short walks hereabouts, and the reopening of the old Minister's Path which crosses by way of Drumwhern to Glen Prosen.

Perhaps this sees a reawakening of interest in the hidden charms of these eastern glens and the old by-ways across The Mounth?