© A Millennium celebration by the MCofS
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A Climb Through History
is a celebration of the achievements of Scotland's climbers. The MCofS has selected one climb from each year from around the turn of the century. They have been chosen to be representative of the development of climbing across Scotland and are based upon historical significance and geographic spread as well as the quality of the climbing (although in some earlier years both the quality and the possible choices were limited!). The list also includes as many of the great pioneers over the years as possible to be a true reflection of Scotland's great history.
Climbing on Crowberry Gully in 1933
Photo courtesy of LSCC
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The MCofS would like to have each route climbed over the coming few years, and are asking members to select at least one (or more if they desire). There is a full list of the climbs from which to make a choice. Details of where to find route description information is also included for ease of identification and because some of the more recent climbs are contained only in Scottish Mountaineering Club Journals.
Kevin Howett & Grahame Little on 1st ascent of 'Prophesy of Drowning' (E3), The Great Arch, the Island of Pabbay"
photo. Graham Nicoll
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It is intended to compile an account of this climbing celebration from descriptions of both the original ascent and those from you. Written or photographic accounts of your main selected route are very important for this. If you can also supply as much information about other climbs you may do, this will help us obtain a selection from which to chose from whilst compiling this record. It cannot be guaranteed that every account will be used but every participating climber will be recorded against each selected route as the 'Millennium climbers'.
On 'Spartan Slab' (VS), Etive.
photo. Kevin Howett
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Allocation of Routes
Climbing on Salisbury Crags in 1908.
photo courtesy of LSCC
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Some routes may prove to be more popular than others and yet we need to ensure that all the routes are climbed. I am therefore asking you to make 3 possible primary choices from which you will be allocated one as your main climb. In order to be fair, allocation of this main climb will be made on a first-come-first-served basis. I would ask you to indicate your choices on the registration form enclosed and return it to me at the MCofS Office. I will endeavour to allocate your first choice, but if this has already been allocated I will suggest one of your alternatives. Don't be afraid to try one of the more obscure climbs. If you wish to complete more than one route please indicate these on the form. You can do so if you wish.
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The list does not include a route for 1999. If you have a new route project in mind from 1999 that you wish to be considered as part of the celebration, register this on the form too. Selection will not necessarily be made on difficulty but on the same criteria as for the rest of the climbs - so easier grade routes of exceptional quality, in new areas or with a particular story attached to them will also be considered. Send all the details when completed.
Catherine Howett on 'Ardverikie Wall' (S), Binien Shuas.
photo. Kevin Howett
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Tom Prentice on
'Stairway to Heaven' (E5)
Bla' Bheinn, Skye.
photo Kevin Howett
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As one of the aims of the celebration is to raise much needed funds for the access, safety and proposed youth work of the MCofS, sponsorship forms for you and your climbing partner will be enclosed with confirmation of your route allocation. You only need to complete sponsorship for your main chosen route - unless you wish to try to raise even more sponsorship for all your possible climbs. When you have completed the climb, please return the sponsorship forms and any monies collected (send a cheque - made payable to 'MCofS' - not cash) to me at the MCofS.
We would like to compile any form of account of your ascent (essays, photos, drawings, cartoons, poetry etc.) into a book in the new millennium as a celebration of Scotland's climbing and climbers. Be free to use your imagination. It need not be long, but 1,000 words would be a maximum. Please endeavour to take photographs of your ascent; colour transparencies or prints (colour or black and white) are acceptable.
Irvine Butterfield
Co-ordinator
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